i 



ROYAL GARDENS 



Only 250 copies of this 'Edition have 
been printed. 

This copy is No./^&A 



DAFFODILS ON THE HILL BELOW ROUND TOWER, 
WINDSOR CASTLE 



ROYAL GARDENS 



BY 

CYRIL WARD, B.A. 

MEMBER OF THE ROYAL CAMBRIAN ACADEMY OF ART, MANCHESTER ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS 
AND NEW SOCIETY OF WATER-COLOUR PAINTERS 



ILLUSTRATED WITH THIRTY-TWO FULL-PAGE COLOUR 
REPRODUCTIONS FROM ORIGINAL WATER-COLOURS 
AND WITH FIVE PEN DRAWINGS 
BY THE AUTHOR 



LONGMANS, GREEN AND CO. 

39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON 
NEW YORK, BOMBAY, AND CALCUTTA 
1912 

All rights reserved 



O 1^ (e Bit 



PREFACE 



The chapters of this book are so arranged that the 
accompanying plates may present a full garden year from 
daffodils at Windsor Castle and spring flowering shrubs at 
Bagshot Park to chrysanthemums at Claremont and autumn 
flowers at Sandringham ; and the gardens herein depicted 
include, in one or other, examples of the whole art of garden 
design as practised in Great Britain during the last three 
or four centuries. That they are cultivated to-day with a 
hearty acceptance of every step in progress made in the 
science of horticulture, articles written by head gardeners 
on their own methods will show. These articles contain 
information and suggestions which, I hope, will be found 
useful by many garden lovers ; and for the thought and care 
their writers have devoted to a task so largely increasing 
the value of my book, I am very grateful, I also wish to 
record my profound gratitude to the royal owners and con- 
trollers of the gardens in the study of which it has been my 
privilege to spend many most delightful months. 

C. W. 

April 19 1 2. 



{ 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

PREFACE ~ V 

CHAPTER I 

INTRODUCTORY, and an Outline of the History of Gardening 

IN Great Britain with especial reference to Royal Gardens i 

CHAPTER II 

NORMAN TOWER GARDEN, WINDSOR CASTLE. April and June 13 
JVitA an Article by the gardener, Mr. Arthur J. Hubbard 

CHAPTER III 

BAGSHOT PARK. May 32 

With an Article by the head gardener, Mr. CHARLES W. Knowles 

CHAPTER IV 

HAMPTON COURT. Early June 50 ^ 

CHAPTER V 

OSBORNE, SWISS COTTAGE AND OSBORNE COTTAGE. 

June and July 61 

With an Article on Osborne and Swiss Cottage by the head gardener, Mr. George Nobbs 

CHAPTER VI 

MARLBOROUGH HOUSE. July 73 

vii 



viii 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER VII 

PAGE 

KENSINGTON PALACE. July 82 

CHAPTER VIII 

HOLYROOD PALACE. August . .91 

Witk an Article by the head gardener, Mr. WiLLlAM Smith 

CHAPTER IX 

CLAREMONT. September ' . . . .105 

Witk an Article by the head gardener, Mr. James Kelly 

CHAPTER X 

SANDRINGHAM. September 121 

IVith an Article by the head gardener, Mr. Thomas H. Cook 

CHAPTER XI 

NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN AS EXEMPLIFIED IN ROYAL 

GARDENS 147 

CHAPTER XII 

NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN {continued) 161 

POSTSCRIPT 178 

INDEX 179 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



I. Daffodils on the Hill below Round Tower, 
Windsor Castle . . . . 

II. The Pergola and Albert Memorial Chapel . 

III. Winchester Tower from King James's Herbere, 

Norman Tower Garden ..... 

IV. Henry III. Tower, from Norman Tower Garden . 

V. The Time of Roses. Fountain Terrace, Norman 
Tower Garden ....... 

VI. The Japanese House and Wistaria Pergola, Bag- 
shot Park 

VII. The Lily Garden, Bagshot Park .... 

VIII. East End of the Terrace, Bagshot Park 

IX. The View from the Terrace, Bagshot Park . 

X. The Diamond Garden, Bagshot Park 

XI. Pen Drawing. Hampton Court Palace in the Reign 
OF Queen Mary. From a drawing made by Antonius 
Wynegaarde for King Philip, now preserved in the 
Bodleian Library ....... 

From a plate in " The History of Hampton Court Palace" 
(George Bell b' Sons Ltd.), by kind permission of the 
Author, Mr. Ernest Law. 

XII. Pen Drawing. Bird's-eye View of Hampton Court 
AS Finished by William III. From Kip's 
Nouveau Theatre de la Grande Bretagne 

From a plate in " The History of Ha>?ipton Court Palace" 
(George Bell 6= Sons Ltd.), by kind permission of the 
Author, Mr. Ernest Law. 

XIII. The Old Pond Garden, Hampton Court 

XIV. Osborne House and Terraces ..... 

ix 



Frontispiece 
Facing p. 14 

20 
22 

28 
32 

» 36 
38 

„ 42 
46 



50 



54 

58 
62 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



XV. Crimson Ramblers at Osborne .... 

XVI. The Borders on the Lawn at Swiss Cottage, 
Osborne ....... 

XVII. " A Cedar spread his dark-green layers of shade." 

Osborne Cottage ...... 

XVIII. Herbaceous Border, Osborne Cottage 

XIX. Pen Drawing. St. James's Palace and Park 
in the Time of Charles II. From a plate 
by Knyff 

From a plate in " Old and New London," by kind permis- 
sion of Cassell if Co. Ltd. 

XX. Looking towards Westminster, Marlborough 
House Garden ...... 

XXI. Trees on the Lawn at Marlborough House 

XXII. Pen Drawing. Kensington Palace and Sur- 
roundings IN 1736. From a map by Jean 
Rocque . . . . . 

From a plate in " Old and New London" by kind 
permission of Cassell Co. Ltd. 

XXIII. The New Pond Garden and Queen Anne's 

Orangery, Kensington Palace 

XXIV. Pen Drawing. The Palace of Holyrood House 

IN the Time of Mary Queen of Scots. From 
a drawing by Gordon of Rothiemay . 

From a plate in Sir Herbert MajcwelVs Official Guide 
to Holyrood House," by permission of H.M. Stationery 
Office. 

XXV. The Abbey Church, or Chapel Royal, in Holy- 
rood Gardens ..... 

XXVI, The North Garden, Holyrood Palace 

XXVII. An Annual Border, Princess Charlotte's 
, Garden, Claremont .... 

XXVIII. The Centre Walk, Claremont, looking South 

XXIX. The Old Sundial, Claremont 

XXX. The Centre Walk, Claremont, looking North 

XXXI. Early Chrysanthemums, Claremont . 



Facing p. 64 
68 

„ 74 



76 
80 



84 



88 



92 



96 
98 

106 
110 
114 
116 
118 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xi 

XXXII. The Lake in the West Garden, Sandringham , Facing p. 122 

XXXIII. A Glade off the Lawn, Sandringham . . „ 124 

XXXIV. Part of the Rock Garden by the Upper Lake, 

Sandringham . . . . . . 128 

XXXV. A Corner of the Lake, Sandringham . , „ 132 

XXXVI. The Pergola, Sandringham , . . . „ 138 

XXXVII. The Double Borders in the East Garden, 

Sandringham ...... ,,140 



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ROYAL GARDENS 



CHAPTER I 

INTRODUCTORY 

Of many Anglo-Saxon words which time has endowed with 
a pre-eminent power of stirring the imagination, few are 
richer in pictorial fancy and literary allusiveness than 
" garden " ; and few equal it in human interest. From 
the earliest times man has placed his dwelling in some 
sort of garden, but the full significance of the word has 
been of slow and gradual growth. A thousand or more 
years ago, garden — or, as it then was, " geard " or " garth " 
— merely meant a yard, an enclosure of any kind adjoining 
a house. Now, the same word brings before the mind's eye 
a whole series of vivid and beautiful pictures of delightful 
pleasances. The word itself seems to compel thought. It 
implies home and family life. Deprived of a garden no 
home can be quite perfect. A simple cottage with a well- 
kept plot is better than the most luxurious house without. 
The child plays, the mother reads or works, the father seeks 
rest and recreation in the garden. It is one of the best com- 
pensations for the troubles and anxieties of modern life, one 
of the most consoling relaxations for a tired brain. Who 
does not rejoice in early spring when buds and blossoms 
begin to open ? And who does not welcome with eager 
joy the first young and struggling flowers ? In summer the 
enjoyment of a garden's progress, the care for its wants, 
occupy some of the happiest hours its owner knows. In 
winter much time and thought are given to the pleasant 

A 



2 



ROYAL GARDENS 



task of planning how it may still further be improved, and 
how far loving labour may go towards making it an ideal 
setting for the home. 

And if so plain and simple a word as garden can call forth 
cheerful images of the quiet and happy domestic life of 
ordinary folk, what may be said of the immeasurably greater 
significance of the phrase. Royal gardens ? The brain can 
scarcely grasp a tithe of the crowding memories and fancies 
called into being by the words. Royal gardens. Think of 
the long line of kings and queens, courtiers and statesmen, 
knights and ladies, priests, prelates, poets, musicians, warriors, 
philosophers, and famous men and women of history who 
have used and enjoyed these gardens through many hundred 
years. The stately etiquette of courts, the ever-changing 
fashions in costume, the formal beauty and graceful dignity 
of garden backgrounds, bring before the mind numberless pic- 
tures, wonderful alike in colour, life and movement. 

Countless poets have drawn some of their most exquisite 
figures and similes from gardens. But none has left a more 
charming and complete picture, nor one more proper to a 
royal garden, than Spenser — who, very possibly, had one of 
the Queen's pleasure grounds in mind — when he says — 

" No tree, that is of count, in greenewood growes, 
From lowest Juniper to Ceder tall ; 
No flowre in field, that daintie odour throwes, 
And deckes his branch with blossomes over all, 
But there was planted, or grew naturall : 
Nor sense of man so coy and curious nice. 
But there mote find to please it selfe withall ; 
Nor heart could wish for any quaint device. 
But there it present was, and did frail sense entice. 

• •••••• 

Fresh shadowes, fit to shroud from sunny ray ; 
Faire lawns, to take the sun in season due ; 
Sweet springs, in which a thousand Nymphs did play ; 
Soft rambling brookes, that gentle slumber drew ; 
High reared mounts, the lands about to view ; 
Low looking dales, disloignd from common gaze ; 
Delightful bowers, to solace lovers true ; 
False Labyrinthes, fond runners eyes to daze ; 
All which by nature made did nature's self amaze. 



INTRODUCTORY 3 

And all without were walks and alleys dight 
With divers trees enrang'd in even ranks ; 
And here and there were pleasant arbours pight, 
And shadie seats, and sundry flowring bankes ; 
To sit and rest the walkers wearie shanks : 
And therein thousand payres of lovers walkt, 
Praising their God, and yeilding him great thankes.' 

Royal gardens are among the oldest in the land. They 
have been the scene of innumerable conversations and inter- 
views, some of which might easily have affected the whole 
future course of history. It was in a garden that Queen 
Elizabeth consented to receive the Earl of Arran, a scion of 
the Royal House of Scotland, who was proposed to her as a 
suitable consort. Arran had only just escaped from a French 
prison, and was brought to England by shrewd and politic 
Cecil with the idea that a marriage would bring about a 
union of the English and Scottish Crowns. Not to offend 
the King of France, Elizabeth's several interviews had to be 
kept profoundly secret. At least one of them took place in the 
Queen's private garden at Hampton Court. The Scottish 
earl failed to please the young Queen, and nothing came of 
this attempt, strongly urged upon her by Cecil and her 
Council as it was, to induce her to take a husband. Imagi- 
nation soon fails in trying to realise the stupendous changes 
in the destiny of England which would have followed, had 
this interview in a royal garden had a different result. An- 
other conference, almost as full of vast possibilities, occurred 
— according to Thackeray in his magnificent novel Esmojid 
— in the " Cedar Walk behind the New Banqueting-House," 
in Kensington Palace Gardens, when the son of James II. 
was presented to the moribund Queen Anne by the famous 
Duchess of Marlborough. And again ; who can fail to 
recollect the thronging crowd of romantic episodes, many 
of them so terribly tragic, in Mary Queen of Scots' time at 
Holyrood ? 

Besides being wonderfully rich in pictorial and literary 
ideas, royal gardens call for special regard by reason of their 
horticultural pre-eminence. English sovereigns for centuries 



4 ROYAL GARDENS 

have led the way in taking full advantage of and encouraging 
every step in progress, every increase in knowledge, both in the 
science of garden culture and the art of garden design. The 
later Tudors looked upon gardens as necessary adjuncts to royal 
magnificence, and several parts of Hampton Court still owe 
much of their charm and beauty to the interest Henry VIH. 
and Elizabeth took in them. Most of the Stuarts, whatever 
their failings in other directions, were by nature and training 
true patrons of art, and gardening under their direction and 
example flourished exceedingly. William and Mary were 
both fond of horticulture, and vast strides in knowledge and 
great developments in practice were made during their period. 
George II. and his consort Queen Caroline made many addi- 
tions and improvements to Kensington Palace among other 
royal gardens, and St. James's Park, as it now is, was laid out 
by them. Queen Victoria and Prince Consort made the 
gardens and planted the park at Osborne, presented the mag- 
nificent home of the Royal Botanical Society at Kew to the 
nation, and threw open St. James's Park and Kensington 
Gardens to the public. And in King Edward VII. 's reign, the 
great peacemaker was a most discerning patron of the gentlest 
of all the arts, and not only made immense improvements in 
his own beloved garden at Sandringham and presented Osborne 
to his country, but brought many other royal gardens to 
their present state of superb beauty and unequalled effi- 
ciency. Their splendid methods have made royal gardens 
for very many years perfect models of gardening practice in 
every department ; so that not only the humblest amateur, but 
the most expert horticulturist may find in them thousands of 
things to admire, hundreds to learn from, and everything 
that knowledge, skill and taste can suggest to gratify the 
senses. 

Few methods for gaining some notion of a country's pro- 
gress and prosperity yield more accurate results than a study 
of the practical interest her people take in the arts of peace. 
For the whole course of history shows that only when a nation's 



INTRODUCTORY 5 

political position has become assured, and her trade prosperous, 
does she turn her mind to the refinements and elegances of life. 
And of them none afford a surer means of gauging advance, 
or a more delightful task, than to note the development of 
gardening. It is scarcely too much to say that advancement 
towards the higher stages of civilisation may be determined by 
evolution of gardens. 

Of all the arts it is the least ostentatious. Painters, musi- 
cians, poets, and especially actors, are, by the character of their 
work, all tempted to make it proclaim their own abilities or 
attributes of person. Who does not notice with regret a 
present-day tendency among painters ? Picture after picture, 
instead of revealing a love and reverence for nature, scouts 
any such triviality, and shouts aloud for applause of a mere- 
tricious and blatant dexterity. Not so the gardener. He 
deals with living and growing objects. He paints with nature's 
colours, and his effects are bound by her laws. The technique 
of his art, being limited to selecting, preparing and planting 
subjects for nature to work on, affords little or no opportunity 
for personal display. 

In the story of every great nation in the past, in the 
marvellously complex life of to-day, horticulture has always 
had a part. Like all other arts and refinements it has moved, 
in the main, from east to west, though during their almost 
fabulous adventures in the sixteenth century, both Cortes in 
Mexico and Pisarro in Peru, found a high state of cultivation 
and elaborate systems of irrigation and hillside terracing, 
which must have existed for hundreds of years. Whether 
it came there from Europe or Asia is still a matter for 
conjecture. In India, Cashmere and especially China, a 
highly developed art of horticulture has been practised from 
time immemorial. And in Japan the traditions of many 
centuries have gradually built up a code of laws for an 
intensely finished and symbolical style of minute landscape- 
gardening, which during the last few years has attracted 
much attention in England, and has exercised no little in- 
fluence over western ideas. In Babylon and Persia there 



6 



ROYAL GARDENS 



were " hanging gardens " or terraces in the period of Assyrian 
greatness. And among recent discoveries in Egyptian ex- 
ploration, certain tombs, containing seeds of cultivated flowers, 
shrubs, cereals and fruits, have been found. Moreover, hiero- 
glyphs showing that irrigation was practised in Egyptian 
gardens sixteen centuries before the Christian era have been 
brought to light. 

Among ancient Greek writings, mention of the horticul- 
tural art of their times is made by Hesiod and Theophrastus ; 
and the disciples of Epicurus were called " the garden sect," 
because their master taught them in his private garden. 
Livy, Pliny the younger, Virgil and Horace all mention, and 
some describe the art, which, five or six hundred years B.C., 
had become an important adjunct to the refined and luxurious 
life of the Latin people. Italy, to this day, is often spoken 
of as the " garden of Europe," and indeed it is not too much 
to say that nearly the whole Continent first learnt the value, 
benefit and charm of horticulture from the victorious Roman 
invader. 

Its first systematic practice in Britain is one among many 
things she owes to the ancient Romans. They brought here 
many fruits, pot-herbs, shrubs and flowers not indigenous to 
the soil ; and in the third century Emperor Probus intro- 
duced and made popular the cultivation of vines. There 
seems to have been a lapse after the Romans left, and garden- 
ing was not revived until the establishment of monasteries. 
The monks paid special attention to medicinal herbs, but 
there is little doubt they did not neglect fruit, vegetables and 
flowers, for in the twelfth century Necham wrote his book 
De naturis Rerum^ in which he gives a fairly long list of 
plants grown in monastic grounds. Soon after this time 
gardens were formed around or adjoining the castles of the 
King and his principal subjects. 

In Henry II. 's reign, pears, apples, cherries and nuts were 
favourite fruits, and among vegetables were beans, onions 
and garlic. Herbs, both as medicines and food, were not 
omitted, and the value of these plants caused their cultivation 



INTRODUCTORY 7 

to become rapidly popular with every class in the community. 
In Piers Plowman, written in the fourteenth century, there is 
a long list of fruits and vegetables grown in the small gardens 
of the poor. In pleasure grounds belonging to the rich, 
arbours, fountains and trim evergreen hedges made their first 
appearance about this time. These accessories were doubtless 
brought in from Italy, where they had been in favour for 
centuries. The list of flowers cultivated begins now to in- 
crease speedily. Madonna lilies were held in high honour, 
and periwinkles, marigolds, roses and violets were favourites, 
the rose most highly thought of being a fragrant double red. 
The popularity of the rose is shown also by the fact that the 
Houses of York and Lancaster adopted a white and a red one 
as their respective badges ; and ever since, the rose has been, 
before all, the flower-emblem of England. 

The first English book, entirely devoted to the subject, 
is a poem called The Feate of Gardening, written about the 
middle of the fifteenth century. The author, one Jon 
Gardener, gives quite a long list of suitable plants. Among 
flowers are : Rose, violet, hollyhock, cowslip, foxglove and 
lavender. He also enumerates several garden-trees, bush and 
ground fruits and herbs. During this century many new 
flowers were introduced ; and topiary, an art which had long 
been practised in Italy, was brought into England. The 
first beginnings of landscape gardening seem to have been 
attempted late in this and early in the next century. Artificial 
hills and valleys covered with turf and planted with shrubs 
and trees, and a little later, so-called " knotted beds," which 
followed a more or less elaborate geometrical pattern, came 
into fashion. Gardens of the Tudor period were often divided 
into separate pleasances and alleys by stone and brick-built 
walls or clipped hedges. The south garden at Hampton 
Court is one of the very best examples now to be seen ; and 
a delightful literary picture. Bacon's famous essay Of Gardens, 
fortunately exists for every one to read. And Spenser, the 
great poet of this " golden age," not only gives some gem- 
like descriptions of gardens as a whole in the Faerie Queene, but 



8 



ROYAL GARDENS 



mentions many flowers in other poems. Some of them are 
called by obsolete names, but in 

"Strowe me the ground with Daffadowndillies, 
And Cowslips, and King cups and loved Lillies" 

there is no difficulty. Others he alludes to are pink and 
purple columbines, gilly flowers, eglantines, " caprifole " or 
honeysuckle, hyacinths, narcissus and amaranth or " Love lies 
bleeding." 

The progress of horticulture in England during the seven- 
teenth century was, on the whole, more rapid and far-reach- 
ing than in any other before or since. In 1629 Parkinson 
wrote his Paradisi in Sole Paradisum Terrestris, in which he 
gives a list of twelve distinct varieties of fritillaries, eight 
of grape-hyacinths, twenty-one of primroses and cowslips, 
and even more of roses and lilies. Besides many improve- 
ments in flower culture, vast strides were made in garden 
design. Each of the three outstanding political events of the 
century had a direct result. The Civil War is responsible 
for Charles IL's education in France, and for the travels 
of John Evelyn. The latter's influence on the gardens of his 
time and after can scarcely be over-estimated. No account 
of gardening in England, however brief, can omit a reference 
to him. Born in 1620, during his long lifetime he was 
not only an acute observer and amateur of the arts, but an 
accurate recorder of his impressions. At the time of the 
Great Rebellion he travelled on the Continent and especially 
in France and Italy. His diary contains nearly fifty descrip- 
tions of magnificent foreign gardens, and almost as many 
of those he visited in England afterwards. And, although 
principally devoted to tree culture, his Syha teaches many 
valuable lessons on country life in general. Evelyn's advice 
on laying out gardens was frequently asked for and acted 
upon by illustrious persons, and even by the King himself. 
The sum of the entries on the subject in his inestimably 
valuable diary presents a fairly complete record of English 
gardening from about 1647 to 1700. 



INTRODUCTORY 9 

The second great event, the Restoration of Charles II. — 
with his fine natural abilities trained among the most polite 
people of the day, and his innate love of building and plant- 
ing — brought about the English renaissance. The King's 
knowledge of the stupendous grandeur of Versailles led him 
to invite Le Notre, its famous designer, to England. The 
latter's style not only had a grand dignity in itself, which 
can be seen to this day in many royal parks and gardens — 
especially at Hampton Court, Windsor, and St. James's Parks 
— but has influenced a long line of English landscape de- 
signers. Among whom London and Wise, his immediate 
successors, did much work on estates of the nobility as well 
as in royal demesnes. 

The third important influence was the accession of William 
and Mary. The Dutch Prince's ideas on planting and laying 
out of park and garden were governed by his military training ; 
and his constant rivalry of the " Grand Monarch " caused 
him to emulate the splendour of the royal parks and palaces in 
France, to continue Charles's work and add much more of his 
own. The style now brought in was very precise and 
formal, and though a great deal of it has been altered or de- 
stroyed, some still remains and can be observed in the East 
Garden at Hampton Court, in Bushey Park and in Ken- 
sington Palace Gardens. All through the seventeenth century 
many additions were made to the now lengthy list of plants, 
and in especial this period saw the first introduction of exotics 
and hothouse culture into England. 

The chief characteristics of garden design were dignified 
formality, and division of the ground into open or enclosed 
spaces by primly clipped evergreen hedges. Most large 
gardens were adorned with beautifully proportioned sun- 
dials, fountains, stone seats and arbours. And many of 
them included bowling greens. It is probable that the 
restful and pleasing effect of these early stretches of smooth 
and level turf led to a use of lawns for purposes of beauty 
alone, which has become almost universal during the last two 
hundred and fifty years. 

B 



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ROYAL GARDENS 



The pleasant formality of the Jacobean period became ex- 
cessive stiffness during the next three or four reigns, and this 
in turn brought about a far too violent reaction. Addison 
and Pope poured ridicule on the classic formal mannerism, and 
so paved the way for the ruthless destruction indulged in by 
the later followers of the new "Nature" school. The pioneers 
of the movement were Bridgeman, Kent and Brown. Their 
ideas were to go direct to nature for a model. This is all 
very well if not carried, as it was by some of them and their 
followers, to a ridiculous extreme. They seem to have lost 
sight of the fact that they were dealing with an enclosed plot 
and not a landscape. They tried, and tried in vain, to repro- 
duce all the features of an extensive tract of country within 
the limits of a garden. And, worst of all, they were not 
content with destroying the bad and adapting the good, but 
in sadly many cases they swept away every trace of old-time, 
often charming, formality. Handsome terraces, evergreen 
hedges, stately parterres, level expanses of beautiful turf and 
all straight paths were utterly abolished to make room for 
hills and dales, streams, cascades, artificial lakes and aimlessly 
winding paths. But perhaps more than all obnoxious to the 
taste of to-day were the sham old ruins sometimes introduced. 
Brown was the most famous of the school, and possibly owing 
to that, has frequently been blamed for things he is most 
unlikely to have done. At all events it is to his lasting credit 
that when asked to " improve " Hampton Court garden he 
•declined ; and his original work at Blenheim, Longleat and 
Wilton still remains to show that his appellative, " Capability," 
was by no means ill-earned. 

So far as garden design is concerned, the later years of the 
eighteenth century and fully three quarters of the nineteenth 
seem to have suffered from a not surprising reaction after 
the terribly expensive remodellings of the natural-landscape 
school, and among the stationary or retrograde methods of 
this period, Repton stands out almost alone as having made 
an advance. He revived and improved upon the excellent 
theory of Bridgeman, which only had a short vogue in its 



INTRODUCTORY 



inventor's time because of the ascendency of Brown and his 
followers. The idea was to combine a pleasantly formal 
garden near the house with a wild or natural manner of cul- 
tivation on the outskirts of the enclosure. And this is, in 
fact, the foundation on which the whole art and practice of 
the present day is built. 

But if design stood nearly still, horticulture as a science 
made immense progress. The whole world has been ran- 
sacked for new genera and species. Thousands of pounds 
have been spent on expeditions to the tropics for orchids, 
and to high mountainous regions for Alpine plants. Hybrids 
and fresh varieties have appeared with such astonishing 
rapidity that it is almost impossible to keep pace with them. 
Specialists have devoted themselves with such skill and con- 
centration to their favourite plants as to have improved them 
well-nigh beyond recognition. New types are constantly 
created, so to speak, and for a short time are worth far more 
than their weight in gold. Ousted by a still more novel 
variety they become easily procurable. And so, at last, every 
one benefits by the astounding progress. 

One comparatively recent development, among so many, 
must be recorded. Nearly all gardens nowadays have separate 
departments for growing special types and groups of plants. 
Rock, wild, water, bog and moraine gardens are all encouraged 
and have become extremely fashionable. They again have led 
to more research abroad, and to a vast increase in the number 
and quality of plants cultivated. 

Judged by the standard of its gardens at the present time, 
England must be placed first in the race of nations. Both in 
design and in horticulture proper, at no time and in no country 
have such thoroughly healthy conditions prevailed. It is a 
matter for congratulation that destructions like those which 
took place a hundred years ago are now impossible, and that 
the best ideas of the past are to-day treated with the utmost 
reverence, and are adapted by dictates of common sense and 
good taste to the requirements of modern life. The whole 



ROYAL GARDENS 



art and science of gardening not only gives incalculable plea- 
sure to an enormous and ever increasing number of amateurs, 
but is in a state of professional efficiency such as it has never 
before attained. And now^here in the whole country can the 
truth of this be seen to greater perfection than in royal 
gardens. 



CHAPTER II 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN, WINDSOR CASTLE 

The Round Tower at Windsor dominates the landscape for 
miles around. It is pre-eminently the centre, the heart so to 
speak, of the supremely magnificent building, and from its 
summit ever flies the flag of England to announce Imperial 
ownership, or the Royal Standard to proclaim the personal 
presence of the Sovereign. In Norman William's time it was 
the keep and ultimate stronghold of the castle, and was for 
centuries the residence of its Constable or governor. The 
tower is built on a lofty artificial mound which was originally 
encircled by a deep fosse, or moat. It is on the steep banks 
of the old mound, and in what remains of the moat, that 
Norman Tower garden is situated. 

There is some room to doubt whether the moat was ever 
intended for water. A dry fosse or ditch would seem to be 
sufficient protection from hand-to-hand attack on a position 
of such strength. At all events, it is probable that from the 
time of Henry III., if not before, the need for a water-moat 
here disappeared, as the outworks of the castle were then con- 
siderably strengthened. And again, in Edward III.'s reign, 
between 1356 and 1369, an almost complete re-building, under 
the famous William de Wykeham, entirely altered the appear- 
ance of that part of the castle near Round Tower. Some 
forty or fifty years after this important change, the first direct 
evidence of the existence of a garden in the moat is to be 
found in a poem by King James I. of Scotland, who was im- 
prisoned in Norman Tower early , in the fifteenth century. 
The window of the room he is known to have occupied has 

only one outlook, and he distinctly alludes to a garden visible 

13 



14 ROYAL GARDENS 

from it. Whether he means a cuhivated garden, or a natural 
self-sown collection of shrubs and flowers, cannot certainly be 
decided. But he mentions as a part of what he could see the 
word " alleys," which seems to imply some definite and arti- 
ficially designed garden. Besides this written evidence of the 
antiquity of some sort of garden here, there is also actual 
witness to the same effect in discoveries made during various 
alterations that have taken place. To mention only one 
instance, recent constructional work has brought to light 
several traces of old paths and other signs of a garden having 
existed on the site of the present one for a very long time. 

Until the last twelve years or so, no very great interest 
seems to have been taken in the garden. Some common 
shrubs, most of them self or bird sown, a few trees, also pro- 
bably planted by accident, and on one small portion of the 
steep slope, some attempts at a stiff and, to present-day ideas, 
ugly style of summer bedding-out, were about all that could 
be seen. Now, on the contrary, it is no exaggeration to say 
that there is here not only one of the most beautiful and inte- 
resting little gardens in the whole of England, but it is culti- 
vated with a minute attention to details, a breadth of idea as 
to general effect, and an intense affection for every plant in it, 
without which it could never have become the exquisite thing 
it is. And, in addition to the unlimited care and skill dis- 
played in its culture, it has been furnished, and lavishly fur- 
nished, with every desirable flower, every precious shrub or 
rare herb, every bulb or root of little known but often most 
valuable variety and species, that could help to make it perfect, 
and increase the pleasure its manifold beauties afford. 

Situated as it is in the moat around the ancient Keep of 
Windsor Castle, no garden can more fitly be described as royal 
than that at Norman Tower. It is considered an adjunct to 
the Tower-house from which it gets its name, and owes its 
exquisite finish, its artistic completeness and its wonderful 
charm and beauty to General Sir Dighton M. Probyn, who 
resides there. His great love of gardens has led him to 
spare neither utmost care and thought, nor very considerable 



THE PERGOLA AND ALBERT MEMORIAL CHAPEL 




/ 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 15 

expense, in making at Norman Tower a perfect model of all 
that is best in garden practice in the past, and all that horti- 
cultural art and science can effect in the present. The 
garden is richly embellished with many interesting objects in 
wood, stone and metal. Among them may be mentioned a 
beautiful sundial in a clear space on the south lawn, two or 
three exquisite little fountains, a pergola, bowers of rose and 
clematis on light iron framework, and many arbours and 
sheltered seats, no two of which are quite alike, but all 
equally well adapted to their special use and position. All 
or nearly all of these features have been designed by and 
constructed under the direction of Mr. Nutt, the resident 
architect of Windsor Castle. The introduction of so many 
architectural adornments as are to be seen here would be out 
of place, or excessive, in a garden with ordinary landscape 
surroundings, but in this they are exactly right. Because the 
view here comprises, in every direction, the severe lines and 
forms of towers, battlements and stone walls, and unless 
many features to give a sort of architectural feeling were 
included, the garden could not be said to fulfil one of the 
most important motives in all garden design, namely, that it 
should be in complete harmony with its external environment. 
The garden on the hill below Round Tower is unique 
not only in its position and surroundings, but also in the 
originality of design which has been forced upon it by them, 
and by its shape and form. In plan it roughly follows the 
outline of a crescent, of which the outer curve corresponds 
with a boundary wall lining the old moat, and the inner 
with a rampart-wall at the foot of Round Tower. But the 
peculiarity of the garden's plan is more than equalled by the 
astonishing diversity of its levels. Its highest point must be 
fully ninety feet above the lowest, and only a small portion of 
the lawn in the bottom of the garden shows a really level 
surface. All the rest is more or less hilly, and in parts even 
precipitous. It is difficult to give an idea of the configuration 
of the ground to any one who has not seen it. Perhaps the 
best way to suggest its form is to compare it with familiar 



i6 



ROYAL GARDENS 



objects of everyday use. Set a straight-sided but tapering 
tea-cup upside down in a deep flat-bottomed saucer, whose 
straight outer rim rises nearly at a right angle with its base. 
From the centre of cup to outer circumference of saucer 
mark out a wedge-shaped segment (including the handle) 
slightly larger than a quarter of both, and the remainder 
will give a rough notion of the general shape and modelling 
of the garden. The inverted tea-cup represents the hill on 
which Round Tower is built, and the steep edge of the 
saucer corresponds with the moat wall. This is about 5 feet 
high on the outside facing the Lower Ward of Windsor Castle ; 
on the garden side it is 15 to 20 feet deep. The flat portion 
of the moat contains first, at the foot of the wall, a narrow 
border which is filled with a truly magnificent collection of 
flowers, mostly herbaceous. It also finds nutriment for hun- 
dreds of roses and other climbing plants clothing the wall. 
The long ring of border is retained by a low brick wall, and 
every twenty yards or so there is a separately designed arbour, 
embowered seat, or fountain to break the monotony and take 
away from the severity of the stone wall against which they 
are placed. Next comes a brick-paved path which follows 
the curve from one end of the garden to the other. It is 
called Lavender Walk from its having, on both sides all 
along at more or less equal intervals, stone or brick-built 
vases about 3 feet high, planted with that sweet-smelling 
herb. Inside the path are beds filled with hundreds of most 
fragrant and choice varieties of roses. These beds have also 
tulips, for spring colour before the roses bloom. On the inner 
side of the rose borders stout iron arches, pillars and connect- 
ing chains are simply laden with rambling roses to provide in 
their season a wealth of beauty and a perfect riot of colour. 
Within the ring of rose pillars lie three or four sunk lawns on 
as many different levels. They are each more or less level in 
themselves ; but one portion is, by several shallow steps, 
lower or higher than the next. Access to lawns from path 
is gained by turfed steps beneath arches in the ring of ram- 
bling roses. Out of the lawns grow many beautiful shade 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 17 

and blossom trees. An old walnut, and an even older mul- 
berry are two. The latter, possibly, was planted in James I.'s 
time. His partiality for this particular tree is mentioned in 
Chapter VI. Other trees, on or near the lawns, helping to 
give the effect of extraordinary variety for which the garden 
is so truly remarkable, are pears, apples and cherries. Thus 
an appearance of a remote orchard is presented by this part 
of the garden. The inner side of the lawn is bounded by a 
low retaining wall, and 

" Right in the middest of that Paradise 
There stood a stately Mount, on whose round top " 

stands the venerable tower-keep of Windsor. The hill is 
clothed with trees and shrubs of numberless kinds, all chosen 
with due consideration for their intrinsic beauty of flower, 
fragrance or foliage, all placed with imaginative taste for 
their future appearance, and knowledge of the sort of position 
they are likely to thrive best in. 

The steep bank is rendered accessible by zigzag paths and 
steps. One such passage begins near the south-east end of 
Lavender Walk. It is covered by a curved pergola sloping 
sharply upwards. Clematis and Dorothy Perkins roses, among 
other climbers, clothe its pillars and arched roof. On its right 
a grey stone wall affords an opportunity for the growth of 
many varieties of lovely wall-plants, and to the left an exquisite 
early spring rock garden enjoys a sheltered and sunny position. 
The background of a most delightful picture is filled in with 
the architectural beauty of Albert Memorial Chapel. 

Brick-paved slopes and stone steps beneath the pergola lead 
upwards to Fountain Terrace, which is about half-way up 
and extends some thirty or forty yards round the steep sides 
of the hill below Round Tower. On its inner side a strong 
retaining wall, clothed with many climbing roses and clematis, 
slopes backwards from a border, planted principally with 
tulips for spring and superb delphiniums for later months, 
at its base. The low parapet on the outer side of the 
terrace is built on a raised platform walk of stone, which 

c 



i8 



ROYAL GARDENS 



has seats at intervals upon it. They are sheltered from 
winds by shrubs growing on the slope below. Between 
delphinium border and raised platform, the main walk 
follows the general curve of the terrace. This path, like 
all others in this unique garden, is paved with brick. 
Not only for comfort, convenience and cleanliness is this 
practice commendable, but in appearance also it is admir- 
able here, for paths made in no other way could possibly 
have looked so suitable to their surroundings as do these. 
From the top of retaining wall on one side, curving down 
to parapet on the other, several " flying buttresses " of iron, 
alternately bearing roses and clematis, frame, as it were, a 
most charming scene. In the middle of the terrace a wall- 
fountain (which gives it name) is most carefully and artis- 
tically built. The materials used are mostly carved stones 
of Norman period from the ruins of Reading Abbey. The 
fountain itself is an antique lion's head splendidly modelled 
in lead. It stands out from the wall under an arch of 
Norman " dog-tooth " work, and the water drips from its 
mouth into a half-octagonal basin of ancient coping-stones. 
They were brought here and reverently re-erected to save 
them from destruction, and to form a worthy centrepiece 
for a garden which is set, like a priceless jewel, in the very 
midst of a royal diadem. 

From both ends of Fountain Terrace paths and steps 
lead steeply upwards to the top terrace, which is just below 
the outer ramparts at the base of Round Tower. The 
views from here in every direction, from south-east to north, 
are beautiful in the extreme. Windsor Home Park and the 
superb avenue. Long Walk, stretch away to the south, and 
sight is bounded in this direction by Surrey's blue-grey hills. 
Further round, the whole Lower Ward of the Castle, between 
Henry III. Tower on the left and Winchester Tower on the 
right, showing the magnificent chapels of St. George and 
Albert Memorial in full length, comes into view. Still further 
west, and far below, the winding shores of Thames can be seen 
for miles upon miles in the wide and lovely valley. Up on the 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 19 

terrace here a narrow path follows the general circular plan 
of the whole garden. It lies on the outer side of a high wall 
of the grey stone which has made Windsor Castle famous for 
its colour throughout the world. The masonry is partly hidden 
by foliage of many plants ; and on the other side of the walk 
are more roses still — on arches, chains and pillars, and even 
growing almost wild as brambles ; while below them the 
shrub-covered ground slopes precipitously down to the back 
of Fountain Terrace. At the north end of this top walk 
there is a garden-house called " King James's Herbere," from 
the fact that it is right opposite the window from which the 
boy prisoner saw the garden he described in his poem five 
hundred years ago. 

Just below the herbere begin the daffodil banks, which are 
a joy and a breathless delight to thousands of people, many 
of whom come to Windsor in spring-time almost specially to 
see them. The slopes from top to bottom are planted with a 
profusion of bulbs. The whole bank in April is converted into 
a shimmering sea of palest yellow, with the cool grey-green 
colour peculiar to daffodils' stems showing between, here 
and there, to accentuate the loveliness of the flowers. At 
the foot of the hill, bog and water gardens have been formed. 
They, too, are full of interest and beauty, and are approached 
from above by steps and slanting paths leading across the 
daffodil bank. Just below the bog garden is " Lady Jane's 
Bower," which crosses from Lavender Walk to a flight of 
stone steps leading up again to Fountain Terrace. 

Not the least interesting feature of the garden is the fact 
that nearly everything has its proper name. For instance, a 
stone-built summer-house near the foot of the pergola is 
called " Poet's Corner." It has a portrait of and is dedi- 
cated to Tennyson, many of whose exquisite garden verses 
are inscribed upon its walls. And most of the beautifully 
designed arbours and seats have each their special name, to 
commemorate a friend or to record an interesting event. 

It is quite impossible to describe in detail every division 
of this wondrously lovely garden. It is not large — true, but 



20 



ROYAL GARDENS 



then beauty does not depend on size. The proportion of 
all its parts, features and accessories has been so justly kept 
that the garden excites the same emotions as an exquisitely 
finished gem of art. While it is almost Italian in its method 
of terracing, something Japanese in its fondness for tiny plants 
and details, it is altogether English in its grand surroundings, 
and in the vast majority of the flowers grown. Notwithstand- 
ing the minuteness of many of its denizens, great care has 
been taken to preserve a broad general effect. And above all 
comes the thought that here, on a site actually made as a 
defence against attack in war, under the frowning towers of the 
stern old fortress, within the battlemented ramparts crowning 
the impregnable escarpment on which the ancient castle stands, 
has been established a garden of peace and beauty as a hopeful 
sign that some day wars may cease, and that nations may in the 
fulness of time turn to the real fulfilment of the law of love. 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 

By Mr. A. J. HUBBARD, Gardener 

In writing about the Norman Tower garden, or as some 
prefer to name it, " The Moat " garden, from its being on the 
site of the old fosse which was once at the foot of the Round 
Tower, we are confronted with the question, who first con- 
ceived the idea of a garden in this spot ? It may and pro- 
bably did originate with birds dropping seeds of various plants 
and shrubs, the wind also helping. And after these seeds had 
grown and in part covered the bare bank, Man stepped in and 
converted it into a garden. Crude no doubt, and not much 
like it is at the present time, but still a garden. Whatsoever 
its origin, a garden certainly existed here from quite an early 
time. King James I. of Scotland, who was a prisoner of state 
in the Norman Tower from 141 3 to 1424, speaks of it as 

" A garden fair, and in the corners set 
A herbere green," 



WINCHESTER TOWER FROM KING JAMES'S HERBERE, 
NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 21 



and proceeds to enumerate some of the trees and shrubs which 
were 

" So close set 
That no one though he were near walking by 
Might there within scarce anyone espy," 

for 

" So thick the branches and the leafage green 
Beshaded all the alleys that there were," 

• •••••• 

" And midst of every herbere might be seen 
The sharp and green sweet-scented Juniper 
Growing so fair with branches here and there 
That, as it seemed to anyone without. 
The branches spread the herbere all about." 

" And on the slender green-leaved branches sat 
The little joyous nightingale, and sang 
So loud and clear " — 

from all of which it is reasonable to infer that vegetation 
had grown so much as almost to form a thicket ; and judging 
from the reference to a " herbere," the garden was, even in 
those days, a pleasant retreat. There are junipers still growing 
in the garden, but alas ! the nightingales have fled. 

The garden lies on the steep slope at the base of the 
Round Tower, and the soil (if soil it can be termed) is chiefly 
chalk-rubble, which was probably thrown down the sides of 
an existing mound by workmen when they were getting out 
trenches for the foundations of the building. The bottom of 
the slope has been more or less filled up at some time or 
other ; a fairly conclusive proof of which is the fact that 
while making the bog garden a gravel path was discovered 
quite two feet below the present level of the ground. The 
garden runs in a circular form, from N.E. to about S.E., or 
nearly three parts of the circumference of the Round Tower, 
and being shaped as it is, and lying on such a steep slope, 
exposed to sun and wind, it naturally drains quickly, and 
becomes very hot and dry during the summer months, thus 
necessitating frequent and copious waterings to keep many of 
the plants in good health. 



22 



ROYAL GARDENS 



The garden must present a very different aspect now, to 
what it did in the Scotch King's time. It has been made a home 
for a host of Alpine plants, choice shrubs, roses of all kinds, 
bog plants, water-lilies, and those beautiful harbingers of spring, 

Daffodils that come before the Swallow dares." 

These all find a congenial home, and form a never-failing 
source of interest and pleasure in their various seasons. 

Having made this short retrospect, I now turn to the 
present appearance of the garden, and will briefly describe 
some of its chief features and occupants. First then, I will 
take the Rock Gardens, and here let me say, there has been 
no attempt to form one large rock garden, but rather a series 
of small ones, here and there, on the surface of the slope, 
wherever opportunity has suggested itself. This, while lacking 
the imposing character of some famous rock gardens, forms a 
not inharmonious whole, the appearance of which, I venture 
to think, would not have been so good had it been treated in 
a more pretentious manner. The stone used in the making 
of these rock gardens is a yellow-brown sandstone, brought 
from Snettisham in Norfolk, and locally called Car-stone. It 
is very porous, weathers quickly, and in a damp spot is soon 
covered with vegetation. The stones have been arranged in 
imitation of a natural outcrop of rock, except by the sides 
of the paths. There, they are frankly placed anyhow, as a 
support to the bank, and to retain the soil, incidentally forming 
pockets and crevices to hold a great variety of plants, all of 
which help in their season to give interest to, and beautify 
the garden. 

Some of the chief occupants of these rock-pockets are 
Acantholimons, of which acerosum, Fomini, lepturioides, 
libanoticum, and venustum are all doing well, growing in as 
hot and dry an exposure as possible, in a deep root run of 
stony, sandy loam. They are very choice rock plants, and 
are worth a great amount of trouble to encourage to grow. 
They form dense spiny tufts, from which issue rose, or pink 
sprays of bloom. 



mm 



HENRY III. TOWER, FROM NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 23 

Achilleas are fully represented, and do extremely well, 
forming tufts and carpets of (in many cases) silvery, highly 
aromatic foliage. 

Alyssums and Aubrietias are also grown, most of the best 
varieties of each being used to form masses of colour in suitable 
places. 

Azalea procumbens is one of the rarer plants that is diffi- 
cult to grow. Although a native of the British Isles, it is quite 
unusual to find a plant of it in a garden. It forms a dense 
carpet of dark green leaves tipped with red, and makes, with 
its rose-pink flowers, an altogether desirable plant for a rock 
garden. It should be given a northern exposure in peat, with 
plenty of fine granite chippings and grit to ensure porosity 
and rapid drainage, in order to keep the roots moist and cool. 

Several of the Androsaces are grown and do well, notably 
lanuginosa and sarmentosa and variety Chumbyi, Lactea and 
lactiflora are two beautiful white species, the latter being best 
treated as a biennial. Foliosa and Laggeri with villosa form 
a fairly representative collection of these beautiful subjects. 

Several of the Daphnes are planted about amongst the 
rocks, in a soil composed of half peat and half loam, with 
plenty of sand added. Some of the species are very slow in 
growth, rupestris being a notable example in that respect, 
though it is one of the most beautiful of them all. They are 
all delightfully fragrant, and flowering early in the year as 
some do, are much appreciated ; hyemalis generally flowers 
first, with mezereon alba a good second. 

The Dianthus family is an important one in rock garden- 
ing, and is well represented here, most of the better known 
species being grown, as well as a number of the rarer kinds. 
They are all beautiful, forming tufts, or hanging masses of (in 
many cases) greyish foliage, with very fragrant flowers. D. 
acaulis and subacaulis are two little gems, all too rarely met 
with in rock gardens. Neglectus and variety compactus are 
most beautiful ; while brevicaulis, frigidus, glacialis, nitidus, 
pyridicola, and several others of these rare species are grown, 
all of which are very charming in their minute beauty. 



24 ROYAL GARDENS 

Several of the species I have planted in the walls, where they 
have seeded and are forming colonies which will make a very 
fragrant feature in the garden in the near future. 

The Gentian family are not altogether a success here, 
though several of the species do well. G. acaulis grows well 
enough into big clumps, but its glorious blue flowers are 
sparingly produced, and somewhat disappointing. It seems to 
be a very capricious plant, growing and flowering freely in 
some gardens with the minimum of attention, and in others, 
where it is given the utmost care, scarcely deigning to produce 
a single blossom. G. verna after many attempts is at last 
growing well, and flowers freely here, planted in a very sandy 
loam, with old mortar added. I top-dress it immediately after 
flowering with the same kind of compost (though without the 
addition of the old mortar rubble), this taking the place of the 
short grasses it is usually found growing amongst in its native 
home. G. asclepiadsa also grows and flowers well, annually 
making a fine show. So, too, does septemfida. Several others 
which I have grown from seeds are making fine clumps, and 
should flower profusely in the course of a year or two. 

Haberleas and Ramondias go well together, both delight- 
ing in the same conditions of soil and atmosphere : a cool root 
run of peat and loam being essential. 

Irises are such an important family that no garden is com- 
plete without a few of them. There is a fairly representative 
collection here, both of the bulbous and rhizomatous sections. 
I generally manage to gather a few blooms of histrioides 
early in the year, following on with reticulata, orchioides, and 
others in due course. I. lacustris is a gem, growing at the 
most not more than 3 inches ; this also applies to I. rubro- 
marginata, the foliage of which is beautifully margined with 
purplish crimson. It is one of the rare Iris, and is doing well 
here, in a very sunny place, where a fair amount of moisture 
can be given during its season of growth. 

Lithospermums are what might be termed some of the 
indispensable plants for rock gardens, especially the beautiful 
variety prostratum. Who that has once seen a plant of this 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 25 

in bloom but does not long to possess an example ? It is doing 
well here planted in a compost of peat and loam, with plenty 
of small stones and sand added to keep the soil open, and let 
moisture pass freely away to the roots, in a position facing due 
south. L. graminifolium, rosmarinifolium, and several others 
are also grown, and by the true enthusiast in rock plants are 
valued as much, if not more than the variety prostratum. But 
for the majority of gardeners, amateurs as well as professionals, 
L. prostratum is the favourite, possibly on account of its being 
easier to grow, and also because of its beautiful blue colour, 
which rivals that of the Gentians in its intensity. 

Phyteumas I am planting extensively in the old walls of 
the moat. As they are usually found growing on limestone 
rocks in their native home, they do well in these walls and 
appreciate the old mortar in them, while they are fairly safe 
there from the attacks of slugs, who are very partial to the 
young shoots, and quickly destroy a plant. They are a quaint, 
yet withal beautiful, race of plants, with flowers of various 
shades of blue. 

Primulas, with a few notable exceptions, are not a great 
success here, probably owing to the amount of chalk there is 
in the soil. I have excavated sites, and filled them up with 
specially prepared composts, only to have failure recorded over 
and over again. It seems impossible to reproduce the natural 
conditions in which many of these beautiful Alpine plants 
grow. Coming as many of them do from very high altitudes, 
and frequently growing in niches or crevices of the rocks, 
their roots are always cool and moist, whilst their foliage 
remains dry. Like the Gentians, they seem to miss the strong, 
pure and dry mountain air, and find that our lowland climate 
enervates them, and robs them of their vitality. P. denti- 
culata and its varieties ; rosea, marginata, calycina, confinis, 
frondosa, and a few others are the exceptions, though these 
need constant attention in the matter of top-dressing and 
dividing to keep them in good health. 

Saxifragas are well represented in Norman Tower garden, 
over a hundred species and varieties being grown, some of 

D 



26 



ROYAL GARDENS 



which are extremely beautiful, many of the Aizoon and 
Kabschia sections being veritable gems. Like a great many 
more of the true Alpine plants they prefer a fair amount of 
moisture at the root, but resent it standing on their foliage, 
consequently they are best planted in fissures and cracks in the 
rocks where there is plenty of moisture for their roots, but 
where it passes freely away from their leaves. It is in such 
positions I grow many of the Aizoon section in a good depth 
of loam, liberally charged with small stones, and a plentiful 
supply of old mortar rubble behind the rocks for them to root 
in. The Kabschia section are grown in like manner, in a deep 
root run of gritty, stony loam. I usually make the compost 
half loam and half grit and stones, and find they do well in the 
mixture. Plenty of moisture is essential during their season 
of growth. The mossy section of Saxifragas as a rule do well 
in almost any position, and form great masses and mounds of 
greenery which are very beautiful when covered with flowers 
during the spring months. S. longifolia I grow in the 
boundary walls, where its huge rosettes look very striking. 

Of the Sedums, Sempervivums, Silenes, Violas, Wahlen- 
bergias and others, space forbids mention. Suffice it to say 
many of them are grown ; some do well, others the reverse. It 
seems to me that one of the chief results of cultivating Alpines 
is that one is frequently only learning what not to try to grow. 

Close under the boundary wall, at the bottom of the 
garden, is a border in which are grown very many of the 
plants termed herbaceous. Delphiniums, of which some of 
the best hybrids of the day are found here, do well, forming 
huge clumps and flowering profusely. These are also grown 
on the Fountain Terrace in a border which, with the excep- 
tion of some tulips, is entirely devoted to them. Here are 
to be seen such fine varieties as King of Delphiniums, Duke of 
Connaught, Rev. E. Lascelles, belladonna grandiflora, Lamar- 
tine and others. Between each pair of plants is a group of 
Darwin or Cottage Garden Tulips, which make a fine patch 
of colour when they are in bloom. 

In the herbaceous border Anchusa Italica, Dropmore 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 27 

variety, flowers well, but needs constant propagation to keep 
up a good stock. Pasonies, Phloxes, Thalictrums, Incarvilleas, 
Aconitums, Pyrethrums, Asters and many others are grown, 
a few of the best of each only, as room is strictly limited. 
Ostrowskya magnifica I have in the garden, but it is what 
gardeners term a very " mifFy " or difficult subject. It exists 
and brings to perfection now and then some blooms which 
are superb, but I cannot say it merits the term " magnifica " 
in the Norman Tower garden, though it undoubtedly is a 
splendid plant when well grown. It is said to grow in a 
chalky soil in its native home, which was partly the reason 
for my trying it here. Being placed close under a high wall, 
many of the plants become very drawn and spindly ; they 
thereby lose much of their character, and staking of plants, 
which usually do not require it, becomes an absolute neces- 
sity. And in consequence of the border being very narrow 
(its average width being only 4 feet), and because it is 
raised above the level of the walk (in some places as much 
as 2 feet), it drains very rapidly, and thus requires copious 
waterings when the plants are in full growth. 

At the base of the slope below the Round Tower and 
immediately beneath the " Daffodil bank " is a bog garden. 
Here are grown a number of those plants which are at home 
in moist spots. Astilbes are well represented, most of them 
attaining their maximum height and flowering freely. Several 
of the Cimicifugas are to be found growing here, with Funkias, 
Hemerocallis, Loosestrifes, various Irises, Gentians, Primulas, 
and a variety of other subjects which like plenty of moisture. 
At the higher end of the bog are the tanks for water-lilies, the 
overflow of which runs into the bog in a series of streamlets, 
and helps to keep it moist. Some of the best of the hybrid 
Nymphasas are grown in those lily-pools, with ferns and other 
suitable plants to fringe the sides, the whole making a cool 
and pleasing picture. 

Bulbous plants have been lavishly used to beautify the 
garden. Narcissi, Tulips, Scillas, Fritillaries, Gladioli and 
Liliums all being laid under contribution. Narcissi have 



28 



ROYAL GARDENS 



been planted in profusion, most of the leading varieties in 
huge masses on the banks, while the choicer and more expen- 
sive ones have been planted in small colonies in favoured 
spots. There they are more under observation, and there 
they do not run the risk of being lost amongst so many 
thousands of similar blooms. In these select spots are grown 
such choice Narcissi as Ellen Willmott, White Knight, Great 
Warley, C. W. Dodd, Sir Dighton, Rev. S. E. Bourne, to 
mention but a few. Altogether over 150 varieties and species 
of Narcissi are grown, ranging from the largest to the smallest 
in cultivation, each with its own distinctive charm, and mak- 
ing when in bloom a picture, once seen, not easily forgotten. 
Tulips and bluebells have also been planted amongst the Nar- 
cissi, thus prolonging the flowering period, and giving a fresh 
colour to the garden as the daffodils go out of bloom. 

Liliums I grow in groups in the herbaceous border 
amongst the other plants. L. Szovitzianum does well, and 
makes a pretty picture combined with Delphinium Candidat 
and Rose W. A. Richardson. L. dalmaticum, Humboldtii, 
Hansoni, pardalinum and others of these graceful plants are 
grown, each rendering its quota of beauty in due season. 
My method of cultivation is to dig out a hole about 18 
inches deep and wide enough to admit of several bulbs being 
planted in it. I then fill it up to the depth required for 
planting with a special compost, and, when placing the 
bulbs in position, entirely surround them with pure sand 
an inch in depth before finally filling up the hole with 
the remainder of the prepared soil. I usually plant 6 to 
8 inches deep according to the variety and size of bulb. By 
these means I am enabled to grow with success several species, 
which otherwise it would be folly on my part to attempt. 

Roses are grown in a fairly large quantity for the embel- 
lishment of the garden. They are grown as bush plants, on 
pillars, arches and chains, on the walls, in hedges and on 
pergolas. Several of the species are also planted amongst 
shrubs and allowed to grow almost wild. Considering that 
roses are plants which like an open situation where they 



THE TIME OF ROSES. FOUNTAIN TERRACE, NORMAN 

TOWER GARDEN 



I 

i 
i 

\ 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 29 

can get plenty of light and air, it is surprising how well 
they do here, a great number of really good blooms being 
produced by the bush plants growing in the borders, although 
they are in a very low and confined situation, and one which 
is far from being an ideal place for roses. Crimson Rambler 
is very largely grown, and makes a fine patch of colour when 
in bloom, Dorothy Perkins is also planted in profusion, and 
makes very beautiful pictures in the garden — one such being 
especially lovely where its exquisite pink is combined with 
the purple of Clematis and the lavender of Buddleia variabilis. 
Tea Rambler is another successful variety, and its pale pink 
colour tones remarkably well with the grey walls of the 
castle. Sinica anemone is a beautiful hybrid of species that 
is quite at home on a wall facing due south, rather shy in 
blooming, but most exquisite in its colouring. Many of the 
old favourites of all sections are grown, besides a number of 
the newer varieties, preference being always given to those 
most sweetly scented. 

The garden has been considerably enriched by the planting 
of many choice shrubs which, while helping to furnish it and 
clothe its banks, form an excellent wind-break, the value of 
which can scarcely be over-estimated in a garden so exposed 
as a great portion of this is. A great many of the commoner 
shrubs were originally planted, and planted thickly, in order 
to cover the banks as soon as possible. Choicer subjects are 
interposed, and, as these grow and gain in size and strength, 
the commoner kinds are removed, leaving the better things 
to fill their places. As a few choice shrubs have been added 
year by year, the garden is becoming fairly rich in the lesser 
known ones, though it will be some time before the full 
value and beauty of these will be seen, small plants taking 
a few years to develop and grow into specimen bushes. 
Lilacs grow and flower very freely. And notwithstanding 
Arbutus are supposed to be lime-hating subjects, they do 
well on this chalky bank, both flowering and fruiting very 
freely. Choisya ternata is another plant that seems thoroughly 
at home here. It apparently enjoys the roasting it gets on 



30 ROYAL GARDENS 

the hot banks. Carpentaria californica, Eucryphia pinnatifida, 
various Olearias, Andromedas, Abelias, Berberises, Veronicas 
and many others are gradually filling up the banks and ousting 
quicker growing and more common subjects. The latter 
have served their purpose in protecting their slower growing 
and choicer brethren from rough, cold and cutting winds. 

Working as I do almost under the eye of the public, I 
hear many criticisms passed on the garden, some favourable 
and some the reverse. Take one instance : I have heard the 
use of common gorse to furnish one portion of the slope 
criticised in this manner : " Fancy growing common gorse 
in the garden — why, you can find it growing on almost any 
common land. I wouldn't have it in my garden." But these 
sapient critics either do not know or else forget that it is in 
the use of some of Nature's most common plants, combined 
with improved and highly cultivated ones, due regard being 
given to the position they are planted in, that some of the 
happiest effects are produced. And who shall say that a 
great mass of gorse does not give a most beautiful effect 
when the sun shines on it and turns it into a veritable bank 
of gold. It is recorded that the great Linnaeus was moved 
to tears the first time he saw a field of gorse in flower, and 
expressed regret because it could not live in the cold climate 
of his native land. In Norman Tower garden part of the 
steep slope below the famous Round Tower is most happily 
planted with gorse. From its gorgeous effect in early 
summer, who would think it was rooted in solid brickwork ? 
Just a few bricks here and there removed, a plant put in 
their place, a spadeful or two of soil placed round their 
roots, and behold the result. 

In giving my advice as to what to get for the garden, I 
have ever borne in mind the old-fashioned plants and flowers 
which were favourites in English gardens long years ago. 
Rosemary and Lavender, Sweet Rockets, Sweet Williams and 
Sweet-briar, Old Man and Columbines, and many others 
are growing here. They give to the garden an old-time 
fragrance and charm which is very grateful to the senses of 



NORMAN TOWER GARDEN 31 

sight and scent. It is very pleasant going through the garden 
*' when the eve is cool," or after a shower, to catch the scent 
of sweet-briar here, or lilac there, or maybe a subtle com- 
bination of odours which, defying analysis, awakens some 
long-forgotten memory, conjures up an incident or possibly 
a scene of childhood's days. 

The garden is at its best during the spring months, when 
the bulbs and flowering shrubs, the rock and Alpine plants 
are giving their wealth of bloom, and again in early summer, 
when the roses are in flower. It is then much admired by 
and gives pleasure to thousands of visitors to the castle who 
can see it from the outside, as well as to those who are 
privileged to view its treasures at closer quarters. 

In concluding this chapter on the Norman Tower garden, 
it is impossible to avoid the thought of how great is the 
contrast between what it now is and what it was but a few 
years ago. Then there were some hollies, lilacs and arbutus, 
with other common, almost wild, shrubs dotted about here 
and there on its banks. A few trees, a few self-sown flowers, 
and a small attempt from time to time at a formal style of 
carpet bedding. Now the same banks are adorned with 
many trees and nicely clothed with numerous choice shrubs. 
Terraces have been made, paths and steps constructed, low 
retaining walls built ; arbours, fountains, bowers and per- 
golas have been designed to make the garden a place of 
charm and interest, a place to be seen in all weathers in 
ease and comfort, a place for pleasure, repose and privacy. 
All these, and many other features besides, help to afford most 
excellent opportunities for cultivating and inspecting many 
rare and lovely plants. Its shady lawns, its well-filled flower 
borders, its unique position in the very centre of England's 
proudest castle, all combine to make the garden, as one of the 
poets says, 

" A lovesome thing 
God wot 

Rose plot 
Fringed pool 
Fern'd grot 

The veriest school of peace." 



CHAPTER III 



BAGSHOT PARK 

Not long after the Norman Conquest, William I. fixed on 
Windsor as his principal residence. A vast tract of country 
to the south and south-west of the castle was retained by the 
Crown as a royal hunting park. Here and there in Berkshire, 
Surrey and Hampshire much of this land to the present day 
is Crown property, though large parts have passed by long 
lease, sale or gift into other hands. Windsor Great Park 
extends four or five miles south of the castle, and a little 
further on come Bagshot Park and Heath. The history of 
Bagshot Park as a royal domain, therefore, goes back to about 
1070, and from then and till comparatively recent times it 
was a favourite hawking and hunting estate of English Sove- 
reigns. It is probable that there was a royal lodge not far 
from the site of the present mansion for many centuries. At 
all events, in Stuart times there certainly was a hunting seat 
there known as Holy Hall. Bagshot Park with the adjoining 
heath made an estate covering fifty square miles, the whole of 
which was surrounded with high deer-fencing. It was pro- 
bably joined on to the south of Windsor Forest, and thus 
constituted a very large and important royal hunting ground. 

During the great Civil War in the reign of Charles I. it 
was disparked, and the fences were broken down and destroyed. 
For some years it lay waste and afforded shelter for numerous 
highwaymen, who took advantage of its desolate wildness to 
plunder travellers on the road from London to Winchester. 
After the Restoration, Charles II. replaced the fencing and 
once again stocked the park with deer brought over from 

France. A few months after the accession of James II., 

3a 



THE JAPANESE HOUSE AND WISTARIA PERGOLA, 
BAGSHOT PARK 



I 



I 




BAGSHOT PARK 3j 

Evelyn and Pepys, the two immortal diarists of the seventeenth 
century, journeyed to Portsmouth together. They were both 
in charge of different departments connected with the Navy. 
Evelyn's account of the expedition says, " I accompanied 
Mr. Pepys to Portsmouth, whither his Majesty was going 
the first time since his coming to the Crown, to see in what 
state the fortifications were. We took coach and six horses, 
late after dinner, yet got to Bagshot (26 m.) that night. 
Whilst supper was making ready I went and made a visit to 
Mrs. Graham, some time maid of honour to the Queen 
Dowager, now wife to James Graham, Esq. of the privy purse 
to the King ; her house being a walk in the forest, within a 
little of a quarter mile from Bagshot town. . . . There is a 
park full of red deer about it." The next month saw Evelyn 
again " dining at Mr. Graham's lodge at Bagshot ; the house 
new repair'd and capacious enough for a good family, stands 
in a Park." Although no direct statement to that effect is 
made by Evelyn, the facts of proximity to Bagshot village, of 
the house being in a park with deer in it, and the positions 
about court of Mr. and Mrs. Graham, all point to the con- 
clusion that their house was the royal hunting lodge lent to 
them as faithful servants of the Crown. 

Ever since the Restoration the estate has been enclosed, and 
being planted with trees of all kinds, especially pines and 
Scotch firs, is remarkable for the beauty of its forest scenery. 
It is situated on the extreme western border of county Surrey, 
about 9 miles south-west of Windsor. Nearness to Windsor 
no doubt partly accounts for Bagshot Park having been so 
long a favourite royal recreation and residential estate, though 
its own merits alone have given it attractiveness enough. 
The Stuart Kings were often there, and George IV., when 
Prince of Wales, sometimes resided in the hunting lodge. In 
1 8 16 the Duke of Gloucester, after his marriage to Princess 
Mary, daughter of George III., made it his home. For thirty 
years or so it has been the principal country residence of 
Their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Connaught. 
Situated as it is, about half-way between Windsor and Alder- 

£ 



34 ROYAL GARDENS 

shot, it certainly seems an ideal home for the royal Field- 
Marshal. 

Since Their Royal Highnesses have resided there avery great 
amount of building has been done. The present mansion has 
been erected and subsequently added to and improved ; lodges, 
stables and drives constructed, the gardens entirely remodelled 
and the whole estate made into one of the most perfectly 
appointed and charming seats in the southern counties. The 
Bagshot soil is of a very peculiar sandy nature, so much so that 
it has given its name to the uppermost deposit of the London 
basin, which is known to geologists as " the Bagshot beds." 
This soil is most suitable for all kinds of flowering shrubs, 
and it is, therefore, not surprising to find the gardens famous 
for their magnificent rhododendrons and azaleas. Very few 
gardens in England can compare with Bagshot at the end 
of May and beginning of June, when thousands of superbly 
flowering trees and shrubs are in the full beauty of their 
rich and varied colouring. 

The main entrance is from the London road at the north- 
east corner of the Park. It is guarded by fine wrought-iron 
gates, and flanked by a handsome lodge. Immediately on 
entering, the character of the place makes itself known. For 
the drive, leading in a south-westerly direction, goes between 
high banks of rhododendrons, set back some yards on either 
side of the broad roadway, and behind them are splendid oaks 
and other forest trees. After proceeding straight for three or 
four hundred yards, the drive crosses another which leads 
from the mansion to a second lodge facing the road to Bag- 
shot railway station. The main drive crosses the Park and 
emerges therefrom at a third lodge not far from the village 
church. Close to the cross-roads just mentioned are the 
stables and home farm, on the left or east side of the drive. 
It was here or hereabout that the old royal hunting lodge 
was situated. Shortly before coming to the crossing by the 
stables, two paths leave the drive opposite each other. That 
on the east side leads through iron gates, a small garden and 



BAGSHOT PARK 35 

orchard, to the kitchen garden. This is enclosed by high 
brick walls well clothed with trained fruit-trees of many best 
kinds, contains a splendid range of glass-houses, the residence 
of the head gardener, and other buildings. It is about six 
acres in extent, and is bounded on one side by the London 
road between the two entrance lodges first mentioned. Cross- 
ing each other at its centre are two long paths between 
double mixed borders, with rose arches overhead about every 
ten yards. The spot where the walks meet is marked by an 
interesting and beautifully designed well, which is encircled by 
a path with seats facing inwards placed upon its outer edge. 
The seats are backed and sheltered by clipped yew hedges. 

Returning to the place where the two paths leave the 
drive ; that on the west is the entrance to the pleasure 
grounds and garden. Almost at once the walk enters a most 
beautiful curving pergola. It is rather less than a hundred 
yards in length, and is exceptionally well covered with num- 
berless climbing plants, especially wistaria, and many varieties 
of clematis and rose. Alongside this pergola on the right is 
a lovely herbaceous border, whose flowers are seen to great 
advantage by reason of a background of clipped yew, with 
flowering shrubs and trees still further behind. On the left 
are more flowers, then shrubs in groups ; and between them 
lovely glimpses of the distant park under outspread branches 
of nearer trees. At the west end of the long pergola, a strik- 
ingly handsome iron gate admits to the garden proper. Two 
paths diverge from this point. One leads indirectly to the 
mansion. The other crosses a lawn under magnificent beech 
trees, passes through a circular Blue Garden, and joins the 
drive to the south of the house. 

Before describing these paths and what they lead to in 
detail, it will be well to see what lies to the right of the 
pergola gate, and attempt to give some impression of one of 
the garden's most charming set of features. Through a 
narrow gap in a bank, or wall, of rhododendrons a short 
grass path leads to an open glade. In its turf carpet, placed 
quite irregularly, are several splendid specimen shrubs. 



36 ROYAL GARDENS 

Among them a superb white azalea, which is probably the 
finest of its kind in England. In the centre of the glade a 
round dome-shaped arbour covered with roses stands on a 
little mound. To one side there is a shrub whose flowers are 
of the most brilliant scarlet, and the contrast between its fiery 
flame colour and the snow-cold purity of the white one just 
mentioned is extraordinarily vivid. In this exquisite little 
offset or ' pocket ' garden, there are also two or three beds 
filled with delicate herbaceous pseonies of exceptionally good 
varieties, and all around are masses of rhododendrons, above 
which countless beautiful trees peep into the charming and 
secluded pleasance. There are two more paths leading away 
from here. One goes back to the shady lawn, and the other 
passes through a tunnel under shrubs to the next of the series 
of ' pocket ' gardens. 

This is especially noteworthy for a new and most interest- 
ing addition — a feature unique in an English garden which 
will probably give its name to this part of the Bagshot 
grounds. A perfectly appointed and exquisitely finished 
Japanese house was presented to H.R.H. Prince Arthur of 
Connaught by the Government of Japan in recognition of 
his connection with the Anglo-Japanese Exhibition, and was 
erected by native art-workmen in this portion of the garden. 
"The selection of this site for the house is extremely happy. 
The trees behind it — cedars, cypress and Canadian hemlock, 
among many others — the lawn in front planted here and 
there with magnolias, and above all a most lovely wistaria 
pergola over the path leading to it, seem to fit the house into 
its surroundings admirably, and make it, so to speak, at home. 
Laying out a part of the lawn close to the house, either as an 
exact replica or on the model of a famous landscape garden in 
Japan, is under contemplation, and if carried out, will still 
further help to make the illusion complete. 

A short path branches from that beneath the wistaria 
pergola and leads, under a rose arch, to the Lily Garden. 
This also is surrounded by rhododendrons, and has three 
ways into it, one of which again leads back to the lawn 



THE LILY GARDEN, BAGSHOT PARK 



f0 



BAGSHOT PARK 37 

already mentioned. The Lily Garden is described in Notes 
on Garden Design (see Chapter XII.). The third path out 
of this delightful little retreat leads by tortuous windings past 
a small but charming rock garden to the fourth of the series — 
an ' American,' or flowering shrub, garden. Here again is 
a turfed glade shut in by banks of rhododendrons. It is 
planted with a most superb collection of shrubs, has a re- 
markably fine magnolia in its centre, and is in every way one 
of the most striking and beautiful features in the whole 
garden. The gorgeous colour here in early June is almost 
incredibly brilliant. 

Returning to the gateway at the end of the long pergola. 
Of two diverging paths, that to the left winds beneath 
several splendid beeches and enters the Blue Garden, which 
is made in an open place in a large lawn. A big circular bed 
is planted with none but blue flowers of varying shades. It 
has a narrow edging of turf. Next comes a path in annular 
form, and outside this again are segmental borders also adorned 
with blue flowers. The outmost ring of all is a very narrow 
bed planted with old-fashioned ' cat-mint,' and rising from 
the midst of this mist of cloudy blue, are iron pillars about 
four feet high whose tops are connected by hanging chains. 
On the posts and chains are blue and white climbing plants. 
The garden is entered by three paths, each of which passes 
under a rose arch in line with the pillars and chains. A 
fourth arch is directly in front of a very picturesque old 
thatched arbour. The effect of the filmy cloud of blue 
seen through these rose arches is most fascinating, and the 
whole idea and design of the garden is extraordinarily well 
thought out. 

As said before, one of the paths out of the Blue Garden, 
soon after leaving it, crosses the main drive to the mansion. 
On the far side of the drive, it passes two or three big groups 
of fine shrubs and trees, and enters the largest expanse of lawn 
in the grounds. Here there is a ' spiral ' garden. Sunk 
below the level of lawn, it has for centre an exceptionally 
interesting and uncommon sundial. A path winds down to 



38 ROYAL GARDENS 

this and has beds planted with dwarf rose-bushes and violas 
on either side. From this point one of the best views of the 
mansion can be obtained. It is built of red brick, with 
ornamentation in stone, and is a handsome specimen of modern 
domestic architecture, with well-balanced proportions and a 
varied, finely composed sky-line. The west end of the house 
contains the more important apartments, and is consequently 
treated in an ornate and imposing manner. Behind, but 
clear of the house, in this direction, a slight elevation of the 
ground is covered with noble forest-trees, evergreens and 
flowering shrubs of numberless kinds beyond an upward slop- 
ing lawn. At the other end, the house is partly seen and 
partly hidden by many splendid trees coming close to its 
walls. By these means, and with the help of its grand terrace, 
the mansion appears both in form and colour to blend most 
agreeably with its surroundings. 

Continuing past an exceedingly graceful group of chest- 
nut trees, the path from the Spiral Garden has a straight 
length in front of the main terrace. This is a nobly pro- 
portioned and extremely handsome feature of Bagshot Park. 
It is built of red brick with a very finely moulded balustrade. 
The wall below is clothed with alternate blue and white wis- 
taria, and wide flower borders lie at its base. At intervals 
along the parapet, vases planted (in spring) with Forget-me- 
not are placed. These vases, instead of being perched up on 
pedestals above the top, stand on footings only a few inches 
above the base of the balustrade, which is cut away and suitably 
finished and ornamented to receive them. This arrangement 
brings the top of the vases only slightly above the level of the 
parapet, thus breaking the line without creating a feeling of 
restlessness, and is extremely effective. The terrace, too, is 
interesting for another reason. It is a double terrace. That 
is, there are two levels. First, the house level, which finishes 
in a sloping turf bank, with flights of stone steps leading 
down to the terrace proper. The upper level is treated 
formally with sunk gardens, yew hedges, vases on pedestals, 
and geometrical flower-beds. The lower terrace has also 




EAST END OF THE TERRACE, BAGSHOT PARK 



I 



BAGSHOT PARK 39 

pattern beds with box edgings in the Italian style, and is 
ornamented with a fountain, statues, seats and several beautiful 
old lead cisterns filled with flowering herbs. In plan, the 
great terrace has two straight wings parallel to the front 
line of the mansion, with a grandly bold semicircular pro- 
jection in the middle. From this a very handsome double 
flight of steps leads down to the path described before. 

On the south of this path, facing the terrace across 
a large expanse of beautiful turf, there is a magnificent 
antique statue in porphyry, far larger than life-size, of Pallas 
Athene. This, of course, is an absolutely unique feature, 
and is of overwhelming interest. Behind this superb statue 
a yew hedge acts as a background to flowers and as a fence 
between garden and park. The lawn is also enclosed on 
east and west sides by hedges with flower borders in front 
of them ; and both its two corners furthest from the terrace 
are furnished with large quarter circular seats of white wood. 

At the east end of the main terrace, steps lead down to a 
straight path across part of the lawn containing the Spiral 
Garden. This path terminates in the Diamond Garden, 
described in Chapter XI. Beyond the west end of the 
terrace there was until recently a large tennis lawn, but 
since the enclosure of the still larger expanse of turf in front 
of the house, an Italian water garden has been made on its 
site. Beyond this again the garden westwards mainly con- 
sists of lovely stretches of turf sloping up to the hill before 
mentioned, with many rare and beautiful specimen trees, 
exquisite groups of flowering shrubs and forest trees in 
countless variety. As it extends in this direction it becomes 
more and more wild in character, until at last it merges 
almost insensibly into the natural woodland around. This 
part of the garden has been greatly improved lately by judi- 
cious clearing of overgrown and common shrubs, and planting 
masses of choice azaleas and many other varieties. And every- 
thing has been carried out with such skill and knowledge 
that the sought for effect of cultivated wildness has been 
most successfully attained. 



40 



ROYAL GARDENS 



The main entrance to the mansion is in its north front. 
And the forecourt is embeUished with a gracefully designed 
well-fountain, and is encircled by borders of beautiful flowers, 
with shrubs and trees behind them for shelter and protection. 
The wild garden approaches this side of the house more 
nearly than any other. Opposite the entrance portico a long 
and rather narrow lawn slopes upwards from the house. 
Fringed on both sides with exquisite flowers and shrubs and 
many most varied trees, it affords fine vistas both to and from 
the mansion. The further end of this lawn opens into one 
of three avenue-like grass paths. They are planted respec- 
tively with azaleas, rhododendrons and evergreen trees, and 
converge to the top of a slight eminence. At the further 
side of a small sloping lawn there stands a charming old 
summer or garden house, to the walls and roof of which 
cling wistaria and clematis. Fine Scotch firs and other 
trees of the wild woodland beyond are its background. One 
of the three avenue paths leads back to the American Garden, 
thus completing the circuit of this large and yet most exquisite 
garden. 

In walking through the grounds of Bagshot Park it is 
impossible not to be immensely impressed by the wonderful 
variety of the interests they excite. The garden as a whole 
has been laid out to make the utmost use of all its many 
natural advantages. It is full of surprise and mystery. No 
sooner is one feature left behind and the thought arises that 
nothing more can remain to be seen, than a new and totally 
different aspect is presented. It is impossible to speak too 
highly, for instance, of the charming variety there is in the 
series of four or five small * pocket ' gardens. They are 
quite distinct from one another ; each has a character of its 
own ; there is just enough formality in some of them and just 
enough irregularity in others to make the effect of the series 
well-nigh perfect in charm and beauty. They are cut off 
from each other and from the rest of the garden by high and 
thick banks of rhododendrons, but, being entered by at least 
three different paths, they still belong to the general scheme. 



BAGSHOT PARK 41 

Then, again, the size and quality of the lawns, the superb 
and stately beech trees and oaks, the multitudes of splendid 
shrubs, the wonderful collection of conifers, and above all 
the skill and knowledge with which everything is cultivated, 
all tend to make this garden a place of superlative and 
enchanting beauty. 



GARDENS AND GROUNDS AT BAGSHOT PARK 

By Mr. C W. KNOWLES, Head Gardener 

Bagshot Park, the country seat of Their Royal Highnesses 
the Duke and Duchess of Connaught, is pleasantly situated 
about midway between Windsor Castle and Aldershot. Nest- 
ling among the pines that abound in this pretty part of Surrey, 
Bagshot has been the occasional residence of several English 
monarchs, and other members of the Royal Family. The 
Duke and Duchess of Gloucester lived here for many years in 
the early part of the nineteenth century. It is supposed that 
the pleasure grounds were remodelled, laid out and planted 
by them. If that is so. Their Royal Highnesses must have 
been most enthusiastic horticulturists, for although planted 
more than a hundred years ago there are still growing many 
fine specimen trees and shrubs, whose luxuriance and beauty 
show that they were carefully selected, judiciously planted, 
and lovingly tended in their early days. Their harmony and 
grandeur has increased with time and is fully appreciated by 
the present royal owners. Many a specimen has been saved 
from becoming starved and decrepit and been given a fresh 
lease of life through His Royal Highness's forethought and 
practical knowledge of forestry gained in more than thirty years 
of careful study. They have been given light and air when 
required by having adjacent trees or shrubs of little value 
removed, and by being treated with a deep knowledge of the 
wants of each species which is very seldom equalled. 

When H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught, four years before 

F 



42 ROYAL GARDENS 

his marriage, first took up his residence here in 1875, Bagshot 
Park and grounds had been much neglected for some consider- 
able time. Steps were immediately taken to remodel the 
whole place. The old house was on low ground near the 
centre of the Park. This was pulled down and a site for the 
present mansion chosen a quarter of a mile further north. 
The structure stands on an imposing eminence, and is built 
in red brick with white stone facings. From it charming 
views of the Park with its fine old trees and lake, and the 
spire of the village church, almost hidden among its sur- 
rounding woods, can be got. Extensive views, too, from east 
to west are obtained from the terrace. They are bounded in 
the distance by the Surrey hills to the east, and disclose an 
even wider prospect to the south towards Aldershot and 
Camberley. 

The walls of the house are well clothed with flowering 
and evergreen climbing plants such as Magnolia Grandiflora, 
Garrya elliptica. Honeysuckles, Roses, Pyracanth us, Escallonias, 
Myrtles, Bignonias, Euonymus radicans. Verbenas, Passifloras, 
Cotoneasters, Clematis, Wistarias, Choisyas and Jasminum. On 
the upper terrace and parallel with the house runs a broad 
gravel walk 90 yards in length, terminating in handsome stone 
steps. They descend to the grounds below at either end, and 
are flanked with four terra-cotta vases filled, in summer, with 
pink Ivy-leaved Geraniums. Just above the coping on the 
slopes of turf are narrow borders of Dutch Lavender and pink 
Roses, giving a very pretty effect. At the east end on the 
steep slope are plantations of specimen variegated Hollies in 
variety. On this terrace plateau, in the angles of the house 
at both ends, are sunken flower gardens. The eastern one is 
in close proximity to the dining-room, and has a clipped Yew 
hedge around it with openings at intervals. The beds are of 
simple design and are planted chiefly with varieties of Helio- 
trope, a favourite flower here. About half-way along the 
front of the house there is a conservatory, the roof of which 
is well covered with a fine plant of Tacsonia exoniensis, 
whose long growths are allowed to hang down freely with 



THE VIEW FROM THE TERRACE, BAGSHOT PARK 



BAGSHOT PARK 43 

charming effect. Streptosolen Jamesonii, Rhynchospermum, 
Lasiandra and Plumbago are also at home here. In the 
western sunk garden blue and white are the colours chosen, 
the plants used being white Geraniums and that most useful 
viola, Maggie Mott, and Ageratum. Visitors to Bagshot Park 
will notice that only two colours are planted in the several 
gardens where possible, so on this terrace all twelve vases have, 
in summer, pink Geraniums, whilst the eight vases in the 
balustrading on the semicircular terrace just below are filled 
with crimson, Fuchsias being the plants selected. Two separate 
flights of steps lead to the Italian Garden on the lower terrace. 
The colours here in summer are crimson Geraniums and 
white. In the centre is a circular basin with a small fountain. 
The best varieties of Nymphsa Marliacea look very happy in 
this small but sunny pool. 

From the centre of the balustrade broad steps of dignified 
design and masterly construction descend to the lawn below. 
On either side of the steps, under the terrace wall, are her- 
baceous borders. The walls are covered with good forms of 
mauve and white Wistaria in alternate colours, the original 
plants having been brought from Japan by Their Royal High- 
nesses the Duke and Duchess of Connaught in 1888, They 
never fail to flower in their season with the greatest possible 
freedom. From here a broad gravel walk at an agreeable 
gradient runs across the sward. It is flanked with stone-colour 
terra-cotta vases 2 feet 6 inches high, resembling huge flower- 
pots. They were designed at the Guild of Art Potteries, 
Compton, Surrey. The walk leads to the Tennis Court, of 
about 90 yards by 70 in extent, enclosed on three sides with 
clipped Yews but open to the terrace on the fourth. Around 
this large enclosure runs a stone slab path, 6 feet from the 
Yews on the inside. In the spaces between are ribbon borders 
of old-fashioned flowers, and to break the uniform appearance 
of the clipped Yews, on either side are wide open entrances to 
the courts. These openings are flanked by four more large 
terra-cotta pots filled with salmon pink Geraniums. The end 
Yews between the pots are left to grow tall and are clipped 



44 ROYAL GARDENS 

in pyramidal shape, whilst at the far corners the hedge curves 
outwards, almost to a half-circle, and forms pretty recesses for 
circular garden seats. The Yew curves are allowed to grow 
higher than the hedge level. In the centre of the side" oppo- 
site the terrace is a large semicircular recess of high Yews, 
with a broad border of blue and white flowers in front of 
it, also flanked by terra-cotta pots. In this bold recess and 
centering with the terrace stands a very ancient statue in 
porphyry of Athene, the Greek Goddess of Wisdom. The 
addition to the grounds of these spacious tennis courts was 
carried out in the autumn of 1909, and was planned by 
Their Royal Highnesses the Crown Prince and Princess 
of Sweden. The design is modern and quite original, and 
although overlooked from the terrace the new courts are 
most skilfully contrived not to interfere with the view, nor 
to obstruct that of the terrace and mansion from the Park. 

East and west of the tennis court are extensive lawns of 
uneven surface broken at intervals by groups of Spanish Chest- 
nuts, and, standing singly, some fine Oaks. Here, too, is to be 
seen the finest specimen perhaps in the country of that by 
no means common conifer, Abies Firma, a Japanese species of 
remarkable beauty, of erect habit and with rigid leaves. It 
is now 40 feet high and in perfect health, and was planted 
in 1880 by the late Emperor Frederick when Crown Prince 
of Germany. Another gem near by is Abies lasiocarpa con- 
color, variety violacea, almost purple in colour. A path from 
the paved tennis lawn walk winds down into the deep spiral 
garden, the centre of which is marked by an old sundial. 
The beds on the sloping sides are filled with Tea and Poly- 
antha Roses, with Violas between. And away by the fence, 
dividing park from pleasure grounds, pink China Roses are 
massed in hundreds, with low shrubs as a background and to 
screen them from rough winds. 

From the eastern terrace steps a broad gravel walk leads 
to a cosy little diamond garden with gravel path around. 
At the angles are three garden seats with overhanging clipped 
Yew arbours shaped very much like a hood. Shelter from 



BAGSHOT PARK 45 

storm or sun can always be found in one or other of these 
seats. A statue of Mercury on a granite pedestal stands in 
the centre. Between these quaint-looking hooded seats are 
clipped golden Yews, which impart a charming brightness 
to the scene at all times of the year. The little garden is 
happy in its setting of shrubs and conifers, with fine Oaks 
and Beeches in the background, and a good specimen of the 
Incense Cedar, Libocedrus decurrens, close by. 

The ground to the north-west of the mansion rises con- 
siderably, presents a pleasing inequality of surface, and is 
enriched with judiciously disposed beds of shrubs and flower- 
ing trees on the sloping sward. Close to the house an Italian 
water garden is in course of construction, and will contribute 
much to the beauty of the surroundings. Towards the top 
of the slope above, and extending for about 300 yards, is 
an imposing turf terrace bounded on one side with magni- 
ficent specimens of clipped Retinosporas, of unusual size and 
in perfect health. On the other side a border of mixed shrubs, 
with a margin of Tritoma Uvaria near the grass, partly hides 
His Royal Highness's Pinetum (on the higher ground beyond), 
which forms a noble background to the rest. Two broad 
glades above the grass terrace lead into the Pinetum, and 
have a fine eff^ect from the west front of the mansion. On 
a knoll at the end of the further glade a superb Cedrus 
Atlantica rears its stately head in proud pre-eminence above 
all other trees. The terrace loses itself in a green ride of 
the adjacent wood, which, bounded by immense Rhododen- 
drons, leads to a charming lake below. The Pinetum men- 
tioned above was commenced by His Royal Highness in 
1880, and now contains many vigorous specimens of great 
beauty. The site for every tree here is selected by His 
Royal Highness himself. He is well acquainted with the 
habits of each species, and watches the development of every 
specimen with keen enthusiasm. The collection is ever 
increasing in variety and interest. Worthy of mention are 
Cedrus Libani, C. Atlantica, C. A. Glauca (the latter one of 
the very finest conifers), Wellingtonia gigantea, Psuga Doug- 



46 



ROYAL GARDENS 



lassii, Abies grandis, A. Albertiana, A. Canadensis, A. Lasio- 
carpa concolor, A. Hookeriana (a great beauty of its class), 
Pinus excelsa, P. Nobilis, P. dissiflora. Silver Firs, P. Nord- 
manniana, Picea pungens Glauca, P. insigne, P, Cembra, 
Cryptomeria Japonica, C. elegans, Cupressus Macrocarpa, 
Cedrus Deodara and C. Nootkatensis. On the lawn below 
there are two vigorous trees of Abies Albertiana, planted in 
1885, one by Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Connaught, 
and the other by His Royal Highness Prince Leopold of 
Prussia. 

The mansion on its north or carriage front has a spacious 
forecourt of gravel, and on a square of turf in the centre 
stands a terra-cotta well-head designed by Mrs. Watts, widow 
of the late G. F. Watts, R.A. In strong contrast to the south 
front, the ground here rises sharply, the slope being covered 
with Rhododendrons and other shrubs almost to the edge of 
the gravel court. A vista is left open (opposite the entrance 
portico) to the pine-wood beyond, and on both sides of the 
grass slope are borders planted in great variety, whose colour 
schemes are planned by Her Royal Highness Princess Patricia. 
They have an extremely pretty effect when seen from the house. 
Near the further end of this vista stands an old orangery upon 
a knoll. Except some old summer-houses this is almost the 
only relic left of Bagshot garden in the past. A very fine 
Cedar, towering above its surroundings near the orangery, 
forms a sort of terminus to mark the ends of three avenues 
which there meet. That on the left is of old Yews. To 
the right is one of Azaleas, 8 feet high, and the middle is 
of Rhododendrons. This latter leads down the hill to the 
American, or flowering shrub, garden. 

Here there are many fine specimens. Rhododendron 
Russellianum (Bagshot variety) is 1 5 feet high and 20 feet 
through, and has always a multitude of scarlet flowers in early 
April. Kalmia Latifolia, nearly as large, both as single 
specimens and in beds. Here, too, are massive groups of 
several old forms of Azaleas, now seldom seen, with colours 
ranging from scarlet to orange, pink and white. In the 



THE DIAMOND GARDEN, BAGSHOT PARK 



I 



I 




BAGSHOT PARK 47 

centre is an old but vigorous Magnolia Tripetala (the " um- 
brella tree"). Magnolia Glauca as standards; Araucaria 
imbricata, a perfect specimen, 35 feet high ; and what is 
said to be one of the finest in England of that Chinese pine 
so seldom seen, Cunninghamia Sinensis, over 40 feet high. 
Pyrus Sorbus ("true service tree"), too, is of large dimen- 
sions. Purple Beech, Red Cedar, and Juniperus Virginiana 
50 feet high, are among other notable trees to be seen near 
by. Passing through an archway in the Rhododendrons, a 
path leads to the Wild Azalea Garden. Here the beds are 
large and very irregular, and are relieved from any appear- 
ance of formality by being placed among large Oaks, Beeches 
and Maples. 

To the south of the American Garden is a small formal 
rockery, and not far away an old grotto almost buried among 
tall Rhododendrons. Near here there is also a quaint little 
circular Dutch or Lily garden with a pool and fountain jet 
in the centre. Three approaching paths and a walk surround- 
ing the pool are paved with red brick, and an outer circular 
path has a carpet of thyme growing in chinks between the 
bricks. On the sward between each of the three walks are 
Lily pools filled with good kinds of Nymphsa Marliacea 
types. Polyantha Roses, Iris, Montbretias, Violas and Saxi- 
fragas are used with good eff^ect in this secluded garden. 

Passing under a Rose arch and by the side of many 
Azaleas and Rhododendrons, a path leads to Her Royal 
Highness the Duchess of Connaught's Blue Garden. A large 
bed in simple design, enclosed with iron posts and chains on 
which grow white and blue climbing plants, is entirely filled 
with flowers in various shades of blue. There are also several 
other smaller beds furnished with blue flowers, and outside the 
ring are four large iron-wire baskets planted with Forget-me- 
nots in spring, and Heliotrope in summer. On the lawn just 
beyond is the Arboretum with its many fine Beeches, Oaks, 
Red Cedars, Leriodcndron tulipifera. Silver Firs 120 feet high 
but fast disappearing (the old and shaky ones having to be 
taken down for safety's sake), Cedrus Deodara 70 feet, C. 



48 



ROYAL GARDENS 



Atlantica 80 feet (in the finest possible condition from base 
to summit), and Juniperus Virginiana planted more than a 
century ago, and still in excellent condition. And thickly 
scattered as they are over a lawn of somewhat undulating 
surface, smaller shrubs are seen to advantage among the trees. 
They include Rhododendron specimens 20 feet and more 
through. Hollies of the best varieties (Ilex Aquifolium Ferox 
and Golden Queen are very fine). Magnolia Conspicua and 
M. Obovata, Rhus Cotinus, Camellias, and i^^sculus glabra, 
the yellow flowering Horse-Chestnut. 

Close by is the Wistaria Pergola (the original plants for 
which were brought from Japan), and the Japanese House 
recently built upon a slight eminence. It is flanked on one 
side by a fine Cedar, and by Abies Canadensis on the other, 
with immense Rhododendrons everywhere around. Passing 
through an archway under them a path leads to another 
surprise, a most secluded but gorgeous nook in June. Very 
fine specimen Azaleas are here. Azalea Indica alba of large 
size has remarkable beauty and the purest white colour. 
From just outside this little retreat a curving pergola about 
90 yards long leads towards the kitchen and fruit gardens. 
It is flanked with borders of old-fashioned flowers, Liliums, 
hardy Fuchsias, Delphiniums, Iris and Paeonies among many 
others. Erica vagans alba is used as an edging with good 
effect. The borders are bounded by a clipped Yew hedge 
on one side, with Mahonia and Berberis Aquifolia on the 
other. 

The kitchen garden contains about six acres, two of 
which are enclosed with walls having fruit houses on their 
south sides. There are also span-roof houses and pits for 
plants and forcing. In the centre of the walled garden is a 
well-head of octagonal shape. It is encircled with pink 
Rambler Roses. Arches of Roses span the centre walks 
which cross at the well-head. Four seats with clipped Yews 
behind them are at each corner. The cross walks are bordered 
with long mixed flower-beds which are also backed with 
clipped Yew hedges. 



BAGSHOT PARK 49 

The principal approach to the mansion from the village 
is by a long curving carriage-drive. Part of it is through an 
interesting avenue of Horse-Chestnuts, pink and white. The 
trees are planted in alternate pairs opposite each other. This 
pretty avenue was planted by Their Royal Highnesses the 
Duke and Duchess on the first anniversary of their wedding, 
March 13, 1880. At one end is a common Horse-Chest- 
nut planted by the Earl of Beaconsfield. Farther on by the 
roadside are two Wellingtonia giganteas planted in April 
1880 by the late King Edward and Queen Alexandra, then 
Prince and Princess of Wales. Another was planted at the 
same time by the late Duke of Albany when Prince Leopold. 
Some very fine Cornish Elms nearly 90 feet high are near by, 
and three magnificent Cedars planted close together are inter- 
esting, for they have grown so evenly as to look like one tree 
at a little distance. They are now quite 90 feet high and 
have developed into a noble trio. Red American Maples, 
(Acer colchicum rubrum) are grand specimens 60 feet in 
height, and a little way from here are beds of Andromeda 
floribunda (Lily of the Valley shrub), which often have 
masses of fragrant white blossom from February to May. 
Pink Ribes and Erica Mediterranea hybrida also make a 
charming bed of soft and harmonious colouring in spring- 
time. 

Through the entrance gates from the Sunningdale road a 
drive sweeps round to join the main carriage-road. It passes- 
between semicircular bays of gigantic Rhododendrons with 
specimens of large size standing out singly on the grass by 
the roadside. Bagshot has for generations past been famous 
for its noble trees and lovely shrubs, and when the latter are 
in bloom the picture presented is a glorious one. Hardy 
Azaleas perhaps in particular are superb, and unless they have 
been seen as they grow here, where they succeed so well, it is 
scarcely possible to form even a vague idea of the brilliant 
colours they are capable of developing. 



G 



CHAPTER IV 



HAMPTON COURT^ 

From the time of Henry VIII. to that of George III., 
Hampton Court Palace was frequently a residence of English 
Sovereigns, and so many important events happened there, 
that only a brief survey of its history can be given here. 
William the Conqueror gave the manor to one of his soldiers, 
Walter de St. Valerie, whose family held it for more than a 
century. About the year 12 17 it was given to the Knights 
of St. John, who had a preceptory or religious house there 
for many years. In 151 5 they leased the manor to Cardinal 
Wolsey. The palace was founded and a large part of it built 
by him. He also re-made the garden, besides enclosing and 
planting the home park. His palace became during the next 
ten years the scene of such luxury and splendour that, as an 
act of policy, he transferred his lease of it to Henry VIII. in 
1526, This monarch, not by confiscation but by exchange 
of other properties, acquired the freehold of the property 
from the Knights of St. John five years later. The King 
often resided here, and his son by Jane Seymour, Edward 
(afterwards Edward VI.), was born in the palace. 

During Henry's reign much care and labour was bestowed 
on improving the gardens. Some of the work of this period 
may still be seen, especially in the Pond Gardens between 
the palace and the Thames. A general idea of what they 
were like during this and the next three reigns may be 
gathered from Bacon's well-known delightful essay. Henry 
was characteristically despotic in forming his parks for hunt- 
ing, and during the last few years of his life caused a good 

^ Many particulars in this chapter have been taken from The History of Hampton 
Court Palace^ by Ernest Law, B.A., F.S.A. 

so 



HAMPTON COURT 51 

deal of discontent by enclosing a vast tract of country south 
of the river extending as far as Byfleet, and converting it into 
Hampton Court Chase. This v^as disparked by his successor, 
but a curious survival still remains, and authority over the 
game within its limits to this day is nominally vested in the 
Crown. The palace was nearly doubled in size during Henry's 
reign, but little further building was done till William and 
Mary came to the throne. 

In Tudor and Stuart times Christmas was observed with 
great rejoicing and festivity. Elaborate and sumptuous 
masques were performed, and profuse hospitality was extended 
to numberless guests of royalty. Mary celebrated Christmas 
of 1558 at Hampton Court, and Elizabeth on several occasions 
held hers in the same palace. " Good Queen Bess " seems to 
have been very fond of Hampton Court, notwithstanding the 
fact that she had been a prisoner here for a short time in her 
sister's reign. She evidently took much interest in the gardens, 
for they were not only well kept up and improved by her, but 
she is known to have daily walked in them during her times 
of residence in the palace. She seems to have been rather 
given to making the Private Garden a place for specially secret 
interviews of state, and still more for confidential conferences 
of a very personal kind. For in addition to receiving the 
Earl of Arran (as related before), she met the envoy of another 
suitor, Hans Casimir, eldest son of the Elector Palatine, in her 
garden. This was Melville, diplomatic agent to Mary Queen 
of Scots. He had been on a visit to the Elector's Court, and 
on his returning home, in 1564, he was asked by the Duke to 
convey his portrait to the Virgin Queen during his passage 
through England. After seeing Duke Casimir's picture (and 
those of the rest of his family which the ever cautious Melville 
also showed to give the affair an accidental appearance), the 
Queen appointed a meeting in the garden. She then, in the 
words of Melville himself, " delivered all unto me, giving me 
thanks for the sight of them. I offered unto her Majesty all 
of the pictures, so she would let me have the old elector's and 
his lady's, but she would have none of them. I had also sure 



52 ROYAL GARDENS 

intelligence that first and last, she despised the said Duke 
Casimir. Therefore I did write back, from London to his 
father and him in cipher dissuading them to meddle any more 
in that marriage." A few months later Melville was back 
again at Hampton Court, this time as special representative of 
the young Scotch Queen. His writings contain some quaint 
accounts of interviews he had with Elizabeth, several of which 
took place in the garden. 

From letters and diaries of other visitors in her reign the 
gardens were noted for " sundry bowers for places of recreation 
and solace," and for " the rosemary so nailed and planted to 
the walls as to cover them entirely." About this time many 
new plants were introduced. Harrison in his Description of 
England says, " If you looke into our gardens annexed to our 
houses, how wonderfullie is their beautie increased, not onlie 
with floures and varieties of curious and costlie workmanship, 
but also with rare and medicinal hearbes sought up in the 
land within these fortie yeares." He then describes his own 
garden in detail, and continues, " If therefore my little plot, 
void of all art in keeping, be so well furnished, what shall we 
think of Hampton Court ? " The Duke of Wirtemburg, who 
visited the palace in 1592, gives a description in his diary, 
and says, "... many beautiful gardens, both for pleasure 
and ornament — some planted with nothing but rosemary ; 
others laid out with various other plants, which are trained, 
intertwined, and trimmed in so wonderfull a manner, and in 
such extraordinary shapes, that the like could not easily be 
found." 

James I. spent much time at Hampton Court, and was 
very fond of hunting in its parks. Politically, during his 
reign, it is famous as having been the scene of the notorious 
but abortive conference between Churchmen and Presbyterians. 
Of the palace and grounds at this period. Prince Otto, son of 
Landgrave Maurice of Hesse, who visited it in 161 1, says in 
the course of an interesting description, " The palace has seven 
courts and two fine gardens, and five parks." And about the 
same time, Ernest Duke of Saxe- Weimar records, " The plea- 



HAMPTON COURT 53 

sure gardens, also, are very beautiful here as everywhere, and 
laid out in the best manner." 

During the reigns of Charles I. and II., Hampton Court 
was frequently the residence of the King for retirement, for 
the reception of distinguished foreign personages, or for 
avoidance of the plague. A few months after his accession 
Charles I. spent his honeymoon here ; and some twelve years 
later he gave orders to improve and further embellish the 
gardens. Classical and renaissance statues were added to those 
already there, and other work projected which would doubtless 
have been carried out had not the Civil War put a stop to all 
such amenities. About this time Charles gave much offence 
by attempting to do what even Henry VIII. had barely suc- 
ceeded in effecting. A large extent of country between the 
two palaces of Hampton Court and Richmond was walled in 
for a hunting park before owners of the land had consented to 
give up their holdings. By strong advice of Archbishop 
Laud, the King reluctantly gave way, and the second attempt 
to create a new forest failed. 

John Evelyn, the famous diarist of the seventeenth century, 
records a visit to Hampton Court on October 10, 1647, 
" where I had the honour to kisse his Majesty's hand, and 
give him an account of severall things I had in charge, he 
being now in the power of those execrable villains who not 
long after murdered him." As Evelyn had only just returned 
from France, where the King's wife and children had gone 
for safety, the extreme interest of this interview, both from 
the domestic and political points of view, can be imagined. 
In happier times the children of Charles had been frequently 
at Hampton Court ; for there is a large and ancient oak in 
the home park under which tradition says they often used 
to play. Exactly one month after Evelyn's visit, Charles 
made his ill-advised escape by way of the Privy Garden and 
old Water-gallery. From here he crossed the Thames, made 
his way to the coast, and eventually gave himself up at Caris- 
brook. Fourteen months later he was beheaded. 

During the Commonwealth an attempt was made to sell 



54 ROYAL GARDENS 

Hampton Court for ready money. As far as the parks are 
concerned this was actually done, but within a few months 
Cromwell, who was known to have a liking for the place, 
was proclaimed Lord Protector, the parks were bought 
back, and the whole property by Act of Parliament passed 
into his hands. He seems to have kept up the gardens 
during the few years he occupied the palace, and he repaired 
the conduit which Charles had made to supply the fountains 
and ponds. 

The last forty years of the seventeenth century are in 
many respects the most important in the history of Hampton 
Court. For it was during this period that palace, parks and 
gardens assumed the appearance they now have. Charles IL, 
of whom one who knew him well said, " he loved planting 
and building," began to lay out and re-plant the home park 
immediately after the Restoration. Two years later Evelyn 
gives his first description of Hampton Court, whither he had 
gone to see the new Queen. He says, " Hampton Court is 
as noble and uniforme a pile, and as capacious as any Gotiq 
architecture can have made it. . . . The park formerly 
a flat naked piece of ground, now planted with sweete rows 
of lime trees ; and the canall for water now neere perfected ; 
also the hare-park. In the garden is a rich and noble 
fountaine, with syrens, statues, &c. cast in copper by Fanelli, 
but no plenty of water. The cradle-walk of horne-beame 
in the garden is, for the perplexed twining of the trees, very 
observable. There is a parterre which they call Paradise, in 
which is a pretty banquetting-house set over a cave or cellar. 
All these gardens might be exceedingly improved, as being 
too narrow for such a place." From this it would appear 
that the magnificent plan for garden and park to the east 
of the palace, generally attributed to William IIL, was, in 
reality, at all events begun by Charles. And, though there 
is no actual record of the fact, it is probable that Le Notre, 
the famous French landscape-gardener, devised the " canall," 
now the Long Water, the great semicircle of trees which en- 
closes the east garden, and the radiating avenues of limes in the 



I 
I 



HAMPTON COURT 55 

home park at Hampton Court, as he certainly did St. James's 
and Greenwich Parks. Arguments in favour of this view 
may be found in the strong resemblance there is between 
the plan at Hampton Court and known examples of Le 
Notre's work at Versailles and other places in France, and 
St. James's Park and Kensington Palace Gardens in England. 
Again, Charles had been brought up near the court of Louis 
XIV., the chief patron of Le Notre, and is said by Evelyn 
to have introduced many French notions into England ; 
whereas William was at constant enmity with the " Grand 
Monarch." More important still, there is the positive state- 
ment of Switzer that the great semicircle of limes was 
planted by Charles. Switzer was a practical gardener, a 
pupil of London and Wise, with whom he worked, probably 
in these very gardens. At all events he shows in his writings 
that he had an intimate knowledge of the place, and he wrote 
at or very near the time of planting, and as an eye-witness. 
On the other hand there is the generally accepted tradition 
that Hampton Court owes everything to William, backed up 
by Defoe's Tour through Great Britain, in which he says 
the whole plan was " devised by the King (William) himself," 
and alludes to the removing of some of the trees which had 
" been almost thirty years planted in other places." Defoe, 
however, not like Switzer, wrote thirty or forty years after 
the event, and from hearsay only. Evelyn, who happens to 
mention both London and Wise, makes no reference to Le 
Notre. But this may be because he had some natural jealousy 
of French influences, and because even he could not allude 
to every one by name. For instance he does not mention 
Rose, who was appointed head gardener to the King about 
1663. On the whole, therefore, it appears that credit for the 
grand semicircular design, which is the main feature and 
keynote, as it were, of the east garden, should be given to 
Charles and Le Notre and not to William, although the 
latter undoubtedly made good use of the splendid opportunity 
presented, and did an immense amount towards perfecting 
the original plan. Rose, just referred to, was one of the 



56 ROYAL GARDENS 

first of a long list of British-born royal gardeners, his imme- 
diate successor being George London, who was his pupil, 
and who took Henry Wise into partnership with him, as 
hinted at before. 

There is no record of work done at Hampton Court 
during the short and disastrous reign of James II. But with 
the coming of William and Mary in 1688, a fresh impetus 
was given, and new ideas brought to bear on the enlargement 
of the palace ; and on the continuation and (in many parti- 
culars) improvement of the work begun by Charles. Very 
soon after his arrival in England, William found it impossible 
to live in the smoke and foul air of London. And to his 
poor health Hampton Court owes much of the grandeur and 
some of the incongruity of its present appearance. Macaulay, 
in a passage too long to quote in full, says, " As William 
purposed to make the edifice his chief palace, it was neces- 
sary for him to plant and to build . . . and next to hunting, 
though at a great interval, his favourite amusements were 
architecture and gardening." Unfortunately these " amuse- 
ments " led him to destroy a great many beautiful features 
of the grand old Tudor palace ; and had time been allowed 
him, it is very doubtful if any part of it would have been 
left. But in the gardens, on the other hand, his work was 
principally constructive ; and, in the main, must be considered 
a grand success. On the i6th July 1689, John Evelyn once 
more went down to Hampton Court, and notes, " A great 
apartment and spacious garden with fountains was beginning 
in the park at the head of the canal." The fault of being 
" too narrow," which he had found twenty-seven years 
before, was now in process of being corrected. William 
filled up about two hundred yards at the west end of the 
Long Water, and turned the semicircle enclosed within 
Charles's limes into a fountain garden with a large round 
basin-pond in its centre. But he afterwards removed the 
bronze fountain " by Fanelli " to the still larger round pond 
in the famous Chestnut Avenue in Bushey Park. This was 
designed to be the main approach to an entirely new palace 



HAMPTON COURT 57 

in debased classic style. Among Wren's papers were found 
plans showing that it was at one time intended to pull down 
very nearly all the old Tudor buildings on the north and west 
sides of the palace, as was actually done on the south and east, 
and replace them with new wings and a large courtyard, 
having the principal entrance in the north front. The famous 
Lion Gate is the only part of this great scheme carried into 
effect on the south side of the road to Kingston. 

During the destruction of the eastern part of the palace, 
and its rebuilding by Wren, William was frequently called 
away to London, Ireland or Holland. Mary, in his absence, 
supervised the work ; and lived in the old Water-gallery, 
where Elizabeth had been imprisoned by her sister nearly one 
hundred and forty years before. Mary was fond of gardening, 
and introduced many rare and exotic plants hitherto unknown 
in England. She appointed as her head gardener for their 
cultivation Dr. Plunkenet, a noted herbalist. She continued 
to spend much time at Hampton Court and gave very close 
attention to every detail of the works in progress. But she 
died in 1694, and as Switzer writes, " Upon the death of that 
illustrious Princess, gardening and all other pleasures were 
under an eclipse with that Prince ; and the beloved Hampton 
Court lay for some time unregarded." 

The fire which destroyed Whitehall in 1698, turned 
William's mind once more to Hampton Court. Soon after 
that great calamity, building, decorating and ornamenting 
were carried on with characteristic vigour. To this date 
belong the magnificent iron gates, designed by Jean Tijou,^ 
and executed by Huntingdon Shaw of Nottingham. They 
were removed in 1865, but, after many protests, were happily 
replaced among their original surroundings ten years ago. 
In the first year of the eighteenth century a great terrace, 
with a bowling green and four pavilions at its further end, 
was constructed alongside the Thames. And in this or the 

^ That Jean Tijou designed these superb specimens of ironwork is one of many 
interesting facts rescued from oblivion by Mr. Law during his careful research into the 
history of Hampton Court. 

H 



58 ROYAL GARDENS 

preceding year, the Broad Walk in front of the east facade of 
the palace was made. To construct this walk, some of the 
limes at each end of the great semicircle, for a distance of 
about fifty yards from the front line of the palace, had to be 
removed. They were replanted in double rows at right 
angles to their former positions and parallel with Wren's 
new building. It is just possible that to this transplanting 
Defoe refers in the passage previously quoted. The Broad 
Walk is entered from the Kingston road by the famous 
" Flower-pot " gateway, and runs due south towards the 
river, till it joins the Great Terrace at the site of the old 
Water-gallery. This latter beautiful and interesting old 
building was unfortunately taken down in order to make 
room for the new terraces. It is probably to the Water- 
gallery that Evelyn refers when he speaks of a " banquetting 
house set over a cave or cellar," for the gallery was a kind of 
boathouse, partly built above the river, and had a large open 
cellar (much as modern boathouses have) below its main 
floor. The maze, or labyrinth, which has been a source of 
great delight to numberless children, was planted in 1700 ; and 
at the same time many ornamental features were added to the 
fountain or east garden. At about this period, too, Bushey 
Park was laid out and planted with those splendid avenues of 
limes and chestnuts, which have since achieved a world-wide 
fame. William kept up his interest in Hampton Court to 
the end. But he was now in a very feeble state of bodily 
health. As is well known, he broke his collar-bone while 
riding in the park at Hampton Court in February 1702. 
After the bone was set, he insisted on being taken to London 
the same day. The jolting on the rough roads of that period 
caused a second fracture ; his strength was not enough to 
withstand the double shock, and he died at Kensington Palace 
a fortnight afterwards. 

Very little alteration has been made in parks or gardens 
at Hampton Court since William's death, though Anne con- 
tinued and brought to a finish the work begun by him. Even 
" Capability " Brown, who has been blamed, sometimes with- 



THE OLD POND GARDEN, HAMPTON COURT 



HAMPTON COURT 59 

out reason, for the destruction of many lovely old gardens, 
showed regard for the work of Wolsey, Henry VIII., Elizabeth, 
Charles II. and William. When asked, by George II., to 
" improve " these gardens he declined, " out of respect to 
himself and his profession." 

Since the accession of George III., Hampton Court Palace 
has never been resided in by an English Sovereign. When 
Queen Victoria came to the throne, one of her first acts was 
to give orders that the State rooms and gardens should be 
thrown open to her subjects. This privilege has been most 
thoroughly appreciated and seldom or never abused. The 
gardens are noted for the great skill and care with which 
they are cultivated, and have been models of horticultural 
practice to thousands of amateur and professional gardeners 
from all parts of the kingdom for many years. An improve- 
ment — not indeed affecting the garden itself, but of vast im- 
portance to the external appearance of the palace — of which 
it would be difficult to speak too highly, has recently been 
made. Wolsey's moat, which at one time surrounded the 
structure on three sides, has been restored on the west front, 
and a beautifully designed bridge, ornamented in perfect 
keeping with the old Tudor buildings, has been thrown 
across it. The whole idea and execution of the work reflects 
the highest credit on those responsible for it ; and adds im- 
mensely to the beauty and dignity of the principal approach 
and entrance to this most venerable edifice. 

During the last two centuries enormous strides have been 
made in every branch of horticulture. And of no improve- 
ments have the royal gardeners at Hampton Court failed to 
take advantage. Except for modern methods, and countless 
new varieties of plants, the gardens may be seen now much as 
they were left by William and Mary. Still " very observ- 
able " is the old " cradle-walk." And though Evelyn, by a 
rare mistake, calls its trees hornbeam instead of the wych- 
elms they really are, the rest of his description leaves little 
doubt about its identity with Queen Mary's Bower. Under 
that name it has been known for more than two hundred 



6o 



ROYAL GARDENS 



years, and it still remains a memorial of the Stuart Queen 
who loved the place so well, and a beautiful and unique 
feature of the old Privy Garden on the banks of the Thames. 
The lovely garden itself owes most of its wonderful charm to 
the fortunate preservation of its exquisite and old-fashioned 
formality. Here Elizabeth was daily wont to walk, and of it 
the great poet of her reign might well have been thinking 
when he sang — 

" It was a chosen plot of fertile land 
Beside the wide waves set, like little nest, 
As if it had by Nature's cunning hand 
Been choicely picked out from all the rest, 
And laid forth for example of the best : 
No daintie flower or herb that grows on ground, 
No arborett with painted blossoms drest 
And smelling sweet, but there it might be found 
To bud out fair and throw her sweet smells all around." 

Lying in front of the seventeenth-century orangery, the 
alleys, pleasances and pond gardens of Henry VHL, not 
unlike what they must have been nearly four hundred years 
ago, still exist to give untold delight to modern eyes. The 
Broad Walk of 1700 has still its splendid flower borders, 
though now they are filled with latest and most brilliant 
achievements of horticultural art. The radiating yews in 
the Fountain Garden have been little altered except by time ; 
and Charles's " sweet rows of limes " and William's magni- 
ficent terraces still remain to impress every beholder with 
their well-ordered grace and stately beauty. 



CHAPTER V 

OSBORNE, SWISS COTTAGE AND OSBORNE COTTAGE 

Not long after their marriage, Queen Victoria and the Prince 
Consort decided to purchase an estate and build a residence 
on the south coast of England. The climate and situation 
of the Isle of Wight recommended themselves, and when, in 
1845, Osborne came into the market it was bought by and 
became the private property of Queen Victoria. The 
previous history of Osborne can be told in a few words. 
Originally its name was Austerbourne. This has been 
regarded by some antiquarians as being obviously equivalent 
to Eastbourne. Others hold that the name was really Oyster- 
bourne, which is supposed to have been derived from some 
oyster beds at one time existing on the shore. Be that as 
it may, Osborne, a contracted form of either, has for many 
years been the accepted name of the property. 

The manor was held for a very long time by the Bower- 
man family, but in the reign of Charles I. it belonged to 
Eustace Mann. By the marriage of his granddaughter it 
passed to the Blachfords, and from a descendant of this 
family. Lady Isabella Blachford, Queen Victoria bought it. 
At the time of the purchase the estate contained little more 
than one thousand acres, but additions have been made from 
time to time, and its extent now is about double that amount. 
It is situated on the north-east shore of the Isle of Wight, 
and its surface being unusually undulating, many exquisite 
distant views across Spithead to Portsmouth and the Downs 
beyond, add to the beauty of its nearer attractions. The 
park slopes down to the seashore, and is remarkable for 

the extent and variety of its woods. On the shore are 

61 



62 



ROYAL GARDENS 



private landing and bathing places. And among the woods 
are many drives and paths, with here and there picturesque 
summer and afternoon tea-houses. 

The old home of the Blachfords was modern and plain, 
and not large enough for a royal residence. It was therefore 
at once taken down, and the new mansion, from designs by 
Mr. Thomas Cubitt, begun. This has been considerably added 
to on more than one occasion. In style the house is domestic 
Italian, and both the original pavilion, or centre block, and 
subsequent additions have been carried out in accordance with 
the tenets of the Palladian school of architecture. The result 
is dignified and imposing, owing to proportions being well 
kept and ornamentation being suitable and not excessive. A 
similar style has been carried into the garden on the east front 
of the house. The double terraces there, with balustrading, 
statuary, fountains, vases and a pergola, with handsome flights 
of steps leading down from the mansion to the park, are 
fine examples of modern work on ornate and formal Italian 
principles. 

Both Queen Victoria and Prince Consort soon became 
very much attached to their home by the sea. Every detail 
of the work was supervised by them. And an enormous 
amount of tree-planting was done, much of it under direct 
instructions of the royal pair. It is probable that no estate 
in the country has such a varied collection of well-grown and, 
in many cases, extremely rare trees as can be seen in park and 
gardens at Osborne. Many of them are exotic, and could 
only live in a few highly favoured parts of England. Here 
they have thriven wonderfully, and in course of the sixty 
years or so since they were planted have become thoroughly 
at home, and have grown to exceptionally large sizes. As 
bearing witness to the mildness of the climate, a fine example 
of Camellia Japonica, close to the house, may be men- 
tioned. This is a very large specimen, and is generally 
covered with bloom from late winter till early summer. 
Worthy of notice, too, an evergreen Beech (Fagus Cun- 
ninghamia), which has grown here to the height of over 



OSBORNE HOUSE AND TERRACES 



OSBORNE 63 

30 feet, is the only known specimen of that variety in Eng- 
land, though two are believed to exist in Ireland. It is 
impossible to mention more than a very small number of 
the beautiful and rare trees to be seen. But owing to the 
gracious action of His late Majesty in giving the estate, 
with but few reservations, to the nation in 1902, all tree- 
lovers have an opportunity of seeing them on days when 
the grounds are open to the public. 

Not far from the west side of the house, hidden among 
numberless trees, and approached by paths through glades 
of velvet turf shaded by far-reaching boughs of oak and 
beech, are the old kitchen gardens. They are enclosed by 
high brick walls ornamented with a beautiful stone coping. 
On its outer side and in the centre of the south wall, the 
porch of old Osborne House is built as an arbour. It was 
preserved at the pulling down of 1845, and re-erected in its 
present place. On each side of it the grey-red walls are 
clothed with roses, and at the base of the walls are borders 
filled with flowers of many varieties and exquisitely assorted 
colours. Magnolias and myrtles nearly cover the old porch, 
and in front of it a row of short iron pillars support chains 
on which Crimson Rambler Roses are grown, and can be 
seen to perfection. Between the flower-beds on one side 
and the roses on the other, a path leaves this secluded little 
pleasance under outspread branches of many noble trees. 
The whole picture of old wall, beautiful trees, trained and 
climbing roses, many coloured flowers and shrub-encircled 
lawn, is very lovely, and forms a most charming bit of 
thoroughly English gardening. 

Another and even more beautiful specimen of gardening on 
typically English principles is to be found at Swiss Cottage. 
The garden there is approached from Osborne by walk- 
ing along a ridge on the south side of a valley which runs from 
the mansion down to the sea. Views from this elevation all 
the way are exceedingly beautiful and varied. The undulating 
foreground, masses of splendid trees, the shimmering sea 
with yachts and liners and men-of-war upon it ; and in the 



64 ROYAL GARDENS 

distance long stretches of Hampshire and Sussex coast-line 
and the Downs beyond almost melting into the pearly tints 
of a low-horizoned sky, afford a series of pictures whose 
charm cannot be exaggerated. The walk is about three 
quarters of a mile, and though fully exposed to fierce heat 
from the sun, seems all too short by reason of the diversity 
and beauty of the surrounding scenery. The last few yards 
are beneath the shady trees around Swiss Cottage. 

The building which gives its name to the exquisite garden 
here, was erected by Queen Victoria in 1853 ^ play-place 
for the royal children. The gardens were planted and to a 
large extent cultivated by them fifty or sixty years ago. 
There are many signs and relics of the work they did. 
Their gardening tools are still kept in a thatched shed opposite 
the cottage, and each spade and hoe and wheelbarrow has 
upon it the initials of its royal owner. There is, too, a 
model fort, with ramparts, bastions, fosse and drawbridge, and 
in its centre a little building of brick and stone is still in exist- 
ence, over the door of which is inscribed, " Albert Barracks, 
2nd October, i860." Perhaps it is not too much to imagine 
that H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught, then about ten years 
old, had much to do with the construction of this fort, and 
with many a defence and attack upon it. 

Almost overshadowing the fort is a grove of superb 
cypresses, every one of which was planted by a son or 
daughter of Queen Victoria. They are of the variety known 
as Cupressus Lambertiana, and have grown into large and 
noble trees since they were planted in 1862. Many other 
notable trees are growing in the garden, among which there 
is only space to mention some fine Stone-pines, and an 
exceptionally large Weeping Holly (Ilex pendula). 

The whole garden is enclosed in a thick belt of trees to 
shelter and protect it from strong and cutting winds. Inci- 
dentally they also act as admirable backgrounds to its many 
beauties. The garden lies across a continuation of the ridge 
along which the approach to it runs. After the glare of 
light on the exposed path, the quiet shades of this 



CRIMSON RAMBLERS AT OSBORNE 



OSBORNE 65: 

secluded spot are wonderfully restful and refreshing. Swiss 
Cottage itself is built in the centre of the garden, on the 
highest part of the gentle hill which gives the place so 
much of its peculiar charm. In front of the quaint little 
building a long and rather narrow lawn lies across the ridge 
from the outer ring of trees on the north to the grove of 
cypresses by the model fort. This lawn has two parallel 
borders, full of most exquisite flowers, extending with scarce 
a break from side to side of the garden. Between the flowers 
there is a wide walk of lovely turf. The gay and yet har- 
monious colouring of the flower-beds — set off^ to the best 
possible advantage by the grass between them — the varied 
foliage of an immense number of trees behind, the pic- 
turesque old Chalet, partly hidden and partly seen, the 
myriad blooms of old-fashioned Cluster Rose on one tall 
pillar and Crimson Rambler on another, make the whole 
scene one of superlative beauty. And the pleasure it affords 
is not in any way lessened by the thought that the whole 
idea of the garden and its horticulture is essentially British, 
and owes nothing to statuary, fountains, pergolas or terraces. 

Behind the cottage there is a newly established and most 
interesting wild garden, which merges almost insensibly into 
Barton Wood. Near the south-eastern end of this woodland, 
a little further along the seashore, is a place called King's 
Quay. Tradition has it that this was the spot where Charles I. 
landed in the island after his escape from Hampton Court in 
1647, when making his way to Carisbrook Castle. Turning 
inland again from here, a lane leads to Barton Manor in it& 
sheltered and secluded vale. This property was added to the 
Osborne estate some time after the first purchase. An oratory 
for six chaplains and a clerk was founded here in 1275, but 
about one hundred and fifty years afterwards it passed to 
the Bishops of Winchester. Bishop Waynflete presented the 
little property to Winchester College, who, after holding it 
for more than four centuries, sold it to Queen Victoria. The 
house is a remarkably fine specimen of a sixteenth-century 
manor-house, but was in a very bad state of repair when it 

I 



66 



ROYAL GARDENS 



became the private property of the Crown, It was, however, 
most carefully and completely restored by Queen Victoria and 
Prince Consort, and has ever since been retained by the 
Sovereign. Near the entrance to Barton Manor there is a 
most interesting grove of Cork Oak (Quercus Suber). 
Neither in size or number can the specimens here be 
equalled anywhere else in England. With their deeply 
crinkled bark and grey-green foliage they form a delightfully 
picturesque and shady introduction to the charming old 
manor-house. 

When His late Majesty King Edward VII. made his 
magnificent gift of Osborne to the nation, orders were 
given that those rooms which had been in the personal 
occupation of Queen Victoria were to be specially reserved 
and reverently kept in the same state they were in at her 
death. In this and in many other ways Osborne and its 
grounds are full of memorials of the great and beloved Queen 
who for so many years made the place her favourite home. 
Here it was she died ; and from here, between the solemn 
trees of the avenue she had planted long before, she set out 
on that wonderful last voyage of all. No Englishman can 
ever forget the mournful and majestic progress through that 
other grand avenue, her Empire's battleships ; nor the final 
scene at Westminster, and that at Windsor, where the mother 
of her people was laid to rest beside him, the memory of 
whom had made Osborne, for over forty years, a sacred and 
cherished home. 

OSBORNE 
THE GROUNDS AND GARDENS 
By Mr. GEORGE NOBBS, Head Gardener 

The Osborne estate, which was purchased in 1845 by Her 
late Majesty Queen Victoria, contains 1951 acres. The beauti- 
ful grounds, with their miles of seaboard, make one of the 
most interesting sights to be seen in the Isle of Wight. The 



OSBORNE 67 

land is very undulating, thus adding much charm to the land- 
scape. Thousands of trees and shrubs have been planted at 
various times, a number of which are of great interest, many 
being rare varieties that are seldom seen on the mainlands 
Almost if not quite all the members of our Royal Family have 
planted trees as memorials to mark some happy or sad event. 
Those chosen for this purpose being chiefly conifers, many 
of which have made magnificent specimens, as Cupressus 
Lambertiana, Cupressus Macrocarpa, Cupressus Nootkatensis,, 
Cupressus funebris, Abies Canadensis, and Abies bracteata. 
The latter produced its singular cones in 1908. These 
cones, with their scales and long leaf-like bracts covered with 
globules of thin transparent resin, presented a curious spectacle. 
Seeds were obtained of these, from which plants are now 
growing. 

Very interesting, too, is Athrotaxis Selaginoides, 17 feet 
6 inches in height. Others are Juniperus sphaerica, Juniperus 
Japonica variegata, Retinospora plumosa, Retinospora filifera, 
Pinus insignis and many varieties of evergreen oaks : Quercus 
ilex, Quercus suber (the Cork Oak) and Quercus lucumbeana 
among others. The grove of Quercus Suber situated near 
Barton Manor is exceptionally fine, and the rare evergreen 
Beech Fagus Cunninghamia, 32 feet in height, 3 feet 10 inches 
in girth, is said to be the largest specimen in England. 

Myrtles, Camellias, Rhododendrons, Callistemons, Grise- 
linia and Palms grow freely. One of the Palms, Trachycarpus 
excelsus, 21 feet in height, 2 feet 4 inches in girth, planted 
on the lower terrace in i860, is probably one of the oldest 
specimens of this variety in Great Britain. 

Quercus ilex and Cedrus libani in double rows form the 
magnificent avenue leading from the main entrance gates to 
the house ; Cornish Elms forming the avenues to other parts 
of the estate. As an instance of the wonderful way the 
Quercus ilex thrives in the island, one specimen growing on 
the lawns covers a circumference of 82 yards. The bole of 
this tree rises from the ground 3 feet, and then throws out 
its main branches to the ground again in a remarkable way. 



68 



ROYAL GARDENS 



They have taken root, and from them other branches are given 
off, thus giving to the tree the appearance of a huge bush. 

Too numerous to enumerate are the trees in the park, 
those most noticeable being Pinus insignis, Cupressus 
Lambertiana, Cedrus libani and Arbutus Andrachne, which 
with its quaintly coloured trunk presents a pleasing effect. 

The terraced gardens in front of the house (with their 
flights of stone steps and statuary) contain many flower-beds 
which for the spring display Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, 
Wallflowers, Arabis, Myosotis, &c., are largely used ; the 
bulbs selected being of the early and late varieties, to keep 
up a succession of flowers as long as possible. The summer 
bedding consists of Cannas, Heliotropes, Calceolaria Burbidgii, 
Plumbago Capensis, Streptosolen Jamesonii, Salvias and 
Pelargoniums in variety, also Hydrangea paniculata is used 
and arranged to give as harmonious an effect as possible. 
Other beds being planted with Roses, whilst fine clumps of 
Camellias and Erica arborea flower profusely. The walls 
are clothed with Magnolia grandiflora, Myrtles and many 
other climbing plants. 

In the flower garden Rambler Roses, growing on chains 
suspended from pillars, are very effective. 

The Swiss Cottage and gardens, which are approximately 
three-quarters of a mile from the house, are most interesting. 
This building was erected in 1853—4 for the use of the royal 
children, and was fitted up with every convenience for their 
practical training in domestic management. A museum was 
added in 1862 which contains many curiosities, botanical and 
other specimens which they collected and arranged themselves. 
The gardening implements used by the royal children are 
preserved and kept in a rustic tool-shed, each article having 
the owner's name upon it. A miniature fort erected by them 
in i860, named the Albert Barracks, forms an interesting 
feature of the grounds. 

Many memorial trees have been planted here. Several 
Cupressus Lambertiana, planted in 1 862, have made remarkable 



{ 



THE BORDERS ON THE LAWN AT SWISS COTTAGE, OSBORNE 



OSBORNE 69 

specimens ; also Cupressus Macrocarpa, Thujopsis dolabrata, 
&:c. Amongst the collection of Hollies is Ilex Cornuta, Ilex 
latifolia. Ilex Ovata, Ilex Dipyrena, Ilex turago, Ilex Scotica, 
Ilex ciliatum and a beautiful specimen of Ilex pendula. 

The mixed borders, which are each 278 feet long by 1 3 feet 
wide, are an attractive part of the garden, and every effort is 
made to furnish a succession of flowers during the greater 
part of the year. Masses and groups are planted of various 
plants, and arranged to obtain the best possible colour effect. 
For the spring, thousands of early and late bulbs such as 
Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, English, Spanish and German 
Iris in variety, and Digitalis, Myosotis, Wallflowers, Polyan- 
thus, Arabis, &c., are used. For the summer and autumn. 
Fuchsias, Cannas and Dahlias in variety. Calceolaria Burbidgii, 
Heliotrope, light and dark blue Delphiniums, Naphalium 
grown with Lantana delicatissima. Chrysanthemum maximum 
King Edward VII., Herbaceous Phlox, Pentstemons,Rudbeckia 
Newmanni, Tritomas, Lobelia cardinalis, Helenium grandice- 
phalum atropurpureum. Asters, hardy perennials, with Galtonia 
Candicans, Gladioli Childsi and many other plants and bulbs 
grouped in large enough masses to have a certain dignity. 
The breadth of the masses is also arranged to counteract the 
foreshortening when the borders are seen from end to end. 

Another portion of the grounds has of recent years been 
added which is laid out as a wild garden, and has been planted 
with numbers of flowering trees and shrubs. Very beautiful 
are Crataegus Carrieri, Cratsgus Oxyacantha punicea Fl. PI., 
Crataegus Monogyna, Pyrus Baccata, Pyrus Nivalis, Pyrus 
Malus, Pyrus floribunda, Prunus Subhirtella, Prunus persica, 
Prunus triloba, Prunus pendula, Robinia hispida, Cerasus 
Serrulata rosea, Cerasus Mahaleb pendula, Cerasus Japonica 
alba plena and Paulownia imperialis, with its beautiful foliage. 
Also there is here an authentic Shakespeare's Mulberry, from 
the tree at Stratford. 

Masses of Cytisus praecox, Cytisus scoparius, Ulex europaea, 
Spartium Junceum, Cistus ladaniferus, Choisya ternata, Ber- 
beris stenophylla, Berberis aquifolium and other varieties too 



yo ROYAL GARDENS 

numerous to mention. Thousands of bulbs are planted in the 
grass, which, flowering with the primroses and other wild 
flowers beneath the beautiful trees and shrubs in the spring, 
form a delightful nature study. 

To add to the interest of this garden, His late Majesty 
King Edward VII. and H.M. Queen Alexandra each planted 
a Pinus insignis in 1906. And Their Majesties the King and 
Queen of Spain both planted a Cupressus Lawsoniana Fraseri 
in the same year. 

In the summer, the scarlet Corn Poppies, Epilobium 
angustifolium, iEnothera Lamarckiana, Heracleum giganteum, 
Fuchsia riccartonii, &c., and the ever-changing colour of the 
foliage of the trees and shrubs, make the Swiss Cottage and 
its surroundings one of the most charming portions of the 
Osborne estate. 



OSBORNE COTTAGE 

The royal entrance to Osborne is at the north-west corner 
of the estate, and just beyond the royal gateway are the 
grounds of Albert and Osborne Cottages. When the late King 
Edward VII. gave Osborne to the nation as a convalescent home 
for officers in the Navy and Army, several acres between the 
royal avenue and the public road from East Cowes were re- 
served and added to the property of H.R.H. Princess Henry 
of Battenberg, Governor of the Isle of Wight. Albert 
Cottage stands on the site of two former houses, Kent Lodge 
and York House. The former was taken down, and the 
latter enlarged and its name changed, in 1868. Osborne 
Cottage was built in 1856, and is connected with Albert 
Cottage by a long covered passage. This corridor, running 
approximately north and south, divides the garden, and being 
well clothed throughout its entire length with many climbing 
plants, acts as a most beautiful and interesting background for 
flower-beds on both sides. The western part of the garden is 
long and narrow, and is mainly given up to an exceedingly 



"A CEDAR SPREAD HIS DARK-GREEN LAYERS OF SHADE. 

OSBORNE COTTAGE 



OSBORNE 71 

beautiful stretch of level lawn. This is in part shaded by- 
some splendid specimens of cedar and yew, while several 
trees of other varieties also grow out of the turf. About 
half-way in its length the corridor swells out into a pretty 
octagonal summer-house, and at intervals there are old- 
fashioned casement windows half hidden in foliage. Alto- 
gether, with the wealth of roses, clematis and other climbing 
plants on its walls, and with flower-beds well filled with 
bright and varied hues of numerous plants at its base, this 
corridor forms a feature of uncommon interest from every 
point of view. 

The eastern portion of the garden is more open. It is a 
place of extensive lawns and shady trees, of exquisite flower- 
beds, of bowers and pergolas covered with masses of roses and 
honeysuckle, and affbrds beautiful views across Osborne Park 
with its groups of splendid trees and its solemn stately avenue 
of ilex and cedar. Many of the specimen trees in Osborne 
Cottage garden have been planted by members of the Royal 
Family. Here among others is an Oak, the first planted by 
His Majesty George V. after his accession to the throne, 
and on every side is much to charm and very many features 
to interest. A large bed of exceedingly beautiful Hydrangeas 
of most of the best kinds, occupies one part of the garden 
near Albert Cottage. And from here to Osborne Cottage 
the whole length of the covered way has at its base a border 
of very lovely herbaceous plants. Here may be seen Anchusa 
(Dropmore), Lupins, Delphiniums, Violas, Asters, Phloxes 
and hundreds of other flowers, their colours most harmoniously 
arranged, and the plants cultivated with the utmost care. 
They are selected with the object of making the garden a 
place of special beauty in August and September, but earlier 
in the year as well, there is a wealth of bloom and fragrance 
to satisfy and charm the senses. 

The distinguishing feature of the garden is its informality, 
and the typically English character of its laying-out and 
cultivation. It is a true cottage garden on a large scale, and 
owes much of its charm to simplicity of design, and to the 



72 ROYAL GARDENS 

naive, almost haphazard way its beautiful details are allowed 
to make their modest appeal for notice and commenda- 
tion. Here there is an air of homely, cosy comfort, an 
absence of anything like ostentation, and an almost artless 
obedience to the simple laws of nature. Every one of 
these qualities, negative and positive, bear a helping hand 
and give an entirely successful result to a most delightful 
English garden. 



HERBACEOUS BORDER, OSBORNE COTTAGE 



CHAPTER VI 



MARLBOROUGH HOUSE ^ 

Situated as it is on the north side of the Mall, and close to 
St. James's Palace, no account of Marlborough House and its 
garden can be considered in any way complete, without a 
brief description of its surroundings before the mansion was 
built. 

By the time of Henry VIII., the Tower had fallen out 
of favour as the London abode of the Sovereign. The two 
palaces were Whitehall and Westminster. Henry being 
devoted to hunting and falconry, a park, or chase, for these 
pastimes extended northwards from Whitehall (including in 
its area Islington, Highgate, Hornsey and Hampstead Heath) 
and so back by Marylebone, narrowing as it went, to West- 
minster. At this end of the huge park, a low swampy 
meadow, belonging to a hospital for lepers, was enclosed as a 
nursery for deer. The King acquired the hospital, drained 
the marsh, and converted them into " our Palace of St. 
James's " and its park. The rest of the large chase north- 
wards was disafforested during the reigns of Edward VI. and 
Mary. It is interesting to notice that from its earliest days 
to the present time, St. James's Park has always been in some 
sort a royal Zoological Gardens. Charles H. found much 
amusement in watching the habits of the creatures he kept 
there. He had a large collection of birds in aviaries on the 
south wall, from which fact the name of Birdcage Walk is 
derived. The King's fondness for the Park led him to employ 
Le Notre to lay it out anew, and both Evelyn and Pepys, the 
great diarists of his period, make several allusions to the work 

* In this and the following chapter several particulars are taken from Old and New 
London^ by Edward Walford. 



74 ROYAL GARDENS 

being done, as well as to the many kinds of birds and animals 
to be observed there. 

A quaint old map by Knyff showing St. James's Park and 
its immediate surroundings at the end of Charles's reign, 
presents one very curious piece of information, which 
seems to have an almost prophetic tendency. The guiding 
principle of nearly all the great French landscape-gardener's 
designs was to make at least three straight avenues radiate 
from the centre of the mansion to which the park belongs. 
One of these, generally that in the middle, has water — 
sometimes, as at Hampton Court, in the form of a straight 
" canal " — between its rows of trees. All this was done in 
the new park. But the three avenues, namely, the Mall, 
Birdcage Walk, and that in the centre (containing then a 
long straight canal), radiated, not from St. James's as might 
be expected, but from the spot now occupied by Buckingham 
Palace. And note : this was carried into effect exactly one 
hundred years before Buckingham House was purchased by 
the Crown. In Charles's time the site was bought by Mr. 
Secretary Bennet, afterwards Lord Arlington. When the 
purchase was made there was already a building — known 
as Goring House — standing on a part of the land called 
Mulberry Gardens. This had been planted by James L, 
one of whose whims was to try and increase the revenue by 
encouraging silkworms. His plan failed, and the chief result 
was that his trees gave a name to these gardens. They 
became a place of fashionable resort, and are mentioned as 
such by both Evelyn and Pepys. The former says in May 
1654, "My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden, 
now the only place of refreshment about town for people 
of the best quality to be exceedingly cheated at." It 
must be remembered that this was written during the days 
of the Puritans. Fourteen years after Evelyn's visit, Pepys 
says, " To the Mulberry garden, where I never was before ; 
and find it a very silly place, worse than Spring-garden, and 
but little company, only a wilderness here that is some- 
what pretty." Spring Garden was just outside the north-east 



i 



MARLBOROUGH HOUSE 75 

corner of St. James's Park, and is mentioned in the next 
paragraph. 

Knyff's plan also shows that towards the end of the 
seventeenth century, nearly the whole of the ground east of 
St. James's Palace, north of the Mall and south of the very 
few houses then built in Pall Mall, extending as far as the 
present new Admiralty Arch, were occupied by gardens. 
That at the extreme east being a place of public resort, 
called Spring Garden from a well of water it contained. 
At the west end of this row of gardens, separated only by 
a few yards from the Palace, was built, in 1661—62, a Friary 
for the priests who came to England with Catherine of 
Braganza. The site had been formerly used as a royal 
pheasantry. But from here the whole length of the ground 
to Spring Garden was laid out in walks and parterres as 
the private pleasance of the palace. Evelyn, on at least 
one occasion, walked in the garden here with Charles H. 
For in 1671 he writes, "I thence walk'd with him thro' 
St. James's Parke to the garden, where I both saw and heard a 

very familiar discourse between and Mrs. Nellie, as they 

call'd an impudent comedian, she looking out of her garden on 

a terrace at the top of the wall, and standing on a green 

walk under it." This, of course, means Nell Gwynn, who 
occupied one of the few houses on the south side of Pall 
Mall. The blanks can only refer to the King. The scene 
of this interview, so briefly and yet graphically described, 
was within a few yards of the spot on which Marlborough 
House now stands. 

After the death of Charles and until the early years of 
the eighteenth century little further change took place in 
park or gardens. But a great alteration was made when 
Anne came to the throne. Her favourite, the friend by 
whom she was so much influenced as to have had but little 
will of her own, the famous Sarah Jennings, was wife to the 
Duke of Marlborough. He was now at the highest point 
of his powerful career. Anne could deny nothing to her 
familiar, and leased on very easy terms the western end of 



76 ROYAL GARDENS 

the old palace gardens to the Duke and Duchess. The 
supplement to the Gazette of April i8, 1709, says, "Her 
Majesty having been pleased to grant to his Grace the 
Duke of Marlborough the Friary next St. James's Palace, 
in which lately dwelt the Countess du Roy, the same is 
pulling down in order to re-build the house for his Grace, 
and about a third of the garden, lately in the occupation of 
the Right Hon. Henry Boyle, her Majesty's principal Secre- 
tary of State, is marked out in order to be annexed to the 
house of his Grace the Duke of Marlborough." In this 
manner the gardens passed from the Crown, and for a little 
over one hundred years were in the occupation of the 
Churchill family. 

The Duke employed Sir Christopher Wren to build his 
new mansion ; and, with the exception of a top story having 
been added to the main block, it is now very much as it was 
left two hundred years ago by England's greatest architect. 
Defoe, writing some ten years after its completion, says in 
his Journey through England, "The Palace of the Duke of 
Marlborough is in every way answerable to the grandeur 
of its master. Its situation is more confined than that 
of the Duke of Buckinghamshire, but the body of the 
house is much nobler, more compact, and the apartments 
better composed. It is situated at the west end of the King's 
garden on the Park side, and fronts the Park, but with no 
other prospect than that view." Very many people must 
have wondered why Marlborough House to this day has 
" no other prospect," and Thornton, in his Survey of London 
and Westminster, gives the reason : " When this noble struc- 
ture was first finished the late Duchess of Marlborough 
intended to have opened a way to it from Pall Mall directly 
in front of it, as appears from the manner in which the court- 
yard is formed. But she reckoned without her host. Sir 
Robert Walpole having purchased the house before it, and 
not being on good terms with the Duchess, she was prevented 
from executing her design." 

At the present time Marlborough House is quiet and 



LOOKING TOWARDS WESTMINSTER, MARLBOROUGH HOUSE 

GARDEN 



MARLBOROUGH HOUSE 77 

retired, and when it was built was even more so. It was 
then shut in on the north and east by a grove of chestnut 
trees, on the west it was open to the gardens in front of 
St. James's Palace, and on the south it overlooked, as it does 
now, the Mall and St. James's Park beyond. It must be 
remembered, too, that in those days the park and its entrance 
between Marlborough House and the palace were not open 
to the public ; and so they remained till shortly after the 
middle of the nineteenth century. 

The great Duke died in 1722, and his widow lived at 
Marlborough House till her own death twenty-two years 
afterwards. The Churchill family held it till 18 17, when 
it was purchased by the Crown as a London residence for 
Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold. The negotiations 
were not quite completed when the sad news of the Princess's 
death at Claremont shocked the nation. Her widower con- 
tinued to live here until 1831, when he became King of 
the Belgians. 

Just before the last date a change of great importance, 
which completely altered the appearance of the east end 
of the garden at Marlborough House, took place. This 
was the pulling down of Carlton House, and the erection of 
the mansions known as Carlton House Terrace on the site 
of its gardens. The father of George III., Prince Frederick of 
Wales, had bought the property from the nephew and heir 
of Lord Carlton, in 1732. He made it his London abode 
for many years ; and George IV., when Prince of Wales, 
also lived there. The house used to stand, facing north, 
where Waterloo Place now is. The gardens as they were 
in 1 8 1 3 are described in the memoirs of Captain Gronow : 
" At the period to which I refer, Carlton House was the 
centre of all the politicians and wits who were the friends 
of the Prince Regent. The principal entrance of the palace 
in Pall Mall, with its screen of columns, will be remembered 
by many. In the rear of the mansion was an extensive 
garden that reached from Warwick Street to Marlborough 
House ; greensward, stately trees — probably two hundred 



78 ROYAL GARDENS 

years old — and beds of choicest flowers, gave to the grounds 
a picturesque attraction perhaps unequalled." 

Marlborough House was repaired, decorated and furnished 
anew in 1837. It was then settled on the dowager Queen 
Adelaide. During the eleven years of her occupancy she was 
in the habit of attending the Lutheran Chapel still standing 
in the grounds. This building, which is such a prominent 
object on the east side of the roadway between Marlborough 
House and St. James's Palace, occupies the site of the Chapel 
of the Friary built for the priest attendants of Catherine of 
Braganza. Just after it was finished in 1662, Pepys, in his 
quaint, rather dry way, tells of a visit he paid there, and 
records his opinion of the " Portuguese musique " and sermon, 
"which not understanding, I did go away." 

One year after the death of Queen Adelaide, Marlborough 
House was settled on the Prince of Wales. For some years 
a large part of it was used for the exhibition of the Vernon 
collection of pictures until they could be hung in the National 
Gallery. The upper rooms were set apart for the use of the 
Department of Practical Art, and included a library, museum 
of manufactures and lecture rooms, the whole being the 
nucleus of the present South Kensington Museum. But in 
1863 the collections were removed, for Marlborough House 
was required, on their marriage in that year, by the Prince 
and Princess of Wales. 

It is a curious coincidence that nearly one hundred and fifty 
years before, the Weekly Post iji^ had announced, "The 
Duke of Marlborough has ' presented ' his house to the Prince 
and Princess of Wales ; and it is said that a terrace walk will 
be erected, to join the same to St. James's Palace." This 
junction was never effected, but a similar one was carried out 
at the western end of the old palace. There William IV., 
when Duke of Clarence, had built a mansion which has been 
in turn the London residence of the Duchess of Kent — the 
mother of Queen Victoria — the Duke of Edinburgh, and is 
now that of H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught. Its garden 
and that of St. James's Palace have long been thrown into one 



MARLBOROUGH HOUSE 79 

and are uniformly laid out in sloping terraces and lawns. 
Lying below the south windows of the palace, enclosed in 
high walls behind the trees of the Mall, the garden is still in 
many respects the same as it was in the reign of Charles IL, 
who " on a summer even was often to be seen here playing at 
bowls." 

At Marlborough House the Prince and Princess of Wales 
lived, when in London, until they became King and Queen, 
in 1 90 1. From that time and for nearly ten years afterwards, 
the old mansion was the London home of Their Majesties 
King George V. and Queen Mary, when Prince and Princess 
of Wales ; and it is now the residence in town of Her 
Majesty Queen Alexandra. 

Marlborough House having been for many years a residence 
in London for royal leaders of society, the guiding principle 
in laying out its garden has been to make it as convenient as 
possible for receptions and open-air entertainments. This, of 
course, involves giving up a large proportion of the ground 
to lawns and wide paths. The space devoted to flowers is, 
therefore, somewhat restricted. Considering the limitations 
thus imposed, and the difficulty of obtaining good results 
in the London atmosphere, a garden presenting so many 
features of interest as there are here, reflects great credit on 
its designers and cultivators. 

The ground is between four and five acres in extent, and 
about half of that is laid out in level stretches of turf, the rest 
being planted with beautiful groves of lime and chestnut trees, 
many of them, probably, at least as old as the house itself, 
A print, engraved soon after the mansion was built, shows a 
short wide avenue of young trees leading from the south front 
of the house towards the Mall. A fair number of these are 
still in existence, but the formality of an avenue has long since 
disappeared. A large part of the eastern end of the garden is 
woodland, and the changing effiscts of sunlight and shadow 
falling on an undergrowth of beautiful flowering shrubs 
beneath the tall and stately trees here growing, are very charm- 



8o 



ROYAL GARDENS 



ing. Pathways wind through this deHghtful wilderness. 
One of them leads to a pretty, thatch-roofed summer-house. 
It occupies a corner formed by the east and south boundaries, 
and being almost concealed in foliage, is a cool and shady 
retreat in summer, and a place for quiet seclusion at all times. 
In front of this arbour, a wide terrace-walk extends the whole 
length of the garden on the side next the Mall. At its 
further end is a seat, and between path and fence is a long, 
rather narrow border filled with a great profusion of brilliantly 
coloured and sweet-scented flowers. The terrace is continued 
on the same level about half-way along the garden's western 
side, and has grass banks sloping down to the principal lawn. 
From the spot where the terrace ends, looking south, be- 
tween many trees of garden and park, glimpses of the grand 
towers of Westminster add historic and architectural interest 
to the sylvan beauty of the scene. Along both south and 
west terraces, on the top of the slope, vases filled with bright 
flowers are set at intervals ; and, facing the mansion, two 
flights of stone steps lead down to pathways crossing the 
lawn. Immediately in front of the house these paths join a 
broad walk, which, starting from the boundary wall over 
against St. James's Palace, continues until it is lost in the 
grove of trees and shrubs at the other end of the garden. 

Every one will remember the high wall with its gates on 
the east side of the roadway between Marlborough House and 
St. James's Palace. On its inner side the ground is banked up 
nearly to the top of the wall, and thereupon are planted, as a 
screen, some shrubs and small trees. Between them and the 
wall, near the old Chapel, runs a short and narrow pathway. 
It is reached by stone steps from the broad walk just inside 
the garden gates. Although the wall appears so lofty from 
outside, within it is only high enough to be a sort of parapet 
to the little walk. Here there are one or two seats. The 
place overlooks the open square of St. James's Palace, where the 
quaint and picturesque ceremony of changing guard is gone 
through every morning. On fine days there is always a small 
crowd to see the interesting performance, and listen to the 



TREES ON THE LAWN AT MARLBOROUGH HOUSE 



MARLBOROUGH HOUSE 



8i 



exquisite music of the Guards' band. From the seats by the top 
of the wall, two generations of Princes and Princesses have 
watched, not only the pretty military spectacle, but gorgeous 
state processions, some sad and many pre-eminently joyous, 
which have passed along the road below. 

In the little square plot bounded on the west by the 
shrubbery, on the south by the broad walk, in the angle 
formed by Marlborough House and the old Chapel, is a lovely 
bit of lawn. Were it not for the need of keeping open as 
many large spaces as possible, what a charming secluded 
pleasance might here be made. The corresponding lawn at 
the east end of the mansion is, perhaps, too shady by reason of 
the high buildings and tall trees which almost surround it, 
but this gets a full measure of sunshine, and in these days 
of diminishing fog and smoke, might well repay a more 
ornamental scheme of cultivation, should such a course seem 
desirable. 

The main lawn, as has been said, is divided by two cross 
paths into three parts. In the centre of the middle one, a 
very handsome carved marble flower-vase, on a beautifully 
wrought slender stem, is set on a pedestal of three steps. 
And growing out of the lawn are many fine old lime-trees. 
As the sunlight filters through their leaves it casts cool 
shadows dappled with wavering lights in many a lovely pattern 
on the level sward. Some seats and tables give the place a 
homely and a kindly look, and among the twigs and branches 
of the beautiful old trees many birds find quiet rest or fill 
the air with song. There is here such a sense of calm and 
peaceful retirement, that were it not for the never-ending 
under-hum of London, which makes a kind of dim diapason to 
the light trills of the birds' soprano, it would be difficult to 
realise that the garden is close to some of the main streets 
and avenues of the most populous city in the world. 



L 



CHAPTER VII 



KENSINGTON PALACE 

As has been already stated in the chapter dealing with that 
subject, Hampton Court indirectly owes much of its present 
appearance, both in palace and gardens, to the poor health of 
William III. And to the same cause the English Crown is 
indebted for the possession of Kensington Palace. William, 
after finding it impossible to live in the smoky atmosphere 
of Whitehall, had no sooner chosen Hampton Court as his 
residence than he was compelled to decide it was too far 
removed from London for the prompt transaction of the 
many and difficult affairs of state to which instant attention 
was made necessary by the uncertainty of his position and 
the activity of his enemies. After a few weeks at Holland 
House, he, in the words of Macaulay, " fixed his choice on 
Kensington House, the suburban residence of the Earl of 
Nottingham. ... At present Kensington House is considered 
as a part of London. It was then a rural mansion." Before 
coming into William's possession it was known as Notting- 
ham House. Belonging originally to Heneage Finch, Earl 
of Nottingham and Lord Chancellor, it was sold by his son 
to the Crown. At this time the house was small and not 
suitable for a royal residence, but by the King's orders a new 
upper story and south wing were built by Sir Christopher 
Wren. William also began to lay out the gardens entirely 
afresh. 

The purchase was made in 1 690, and at that time the 
extent of the grounds was about twenty-six acres. Le Notre, 
who had been in England from time to time during the 

preceding thirty years, was employed to design the new 

82 



KENSINGTON PALACE 83 

gardens. In these the taste of the King was no doubt pre- 
eminent. His ideas being in the main military, and Le 
Notre's own preference being in favour of formal methods, 
the result was that closely trimmed yew and prim holly 
hedges were planted in " imitation of the lines, angles, 
bastions, scarps and counterscarps of regular fortifications. 
Near the palace most of this has long been swept away, 
but it is curious to notice that on the Hyde Park boundary/ of 
the gardens there are still ' bastions ' ; and the three radiat- 
ing avenues, the Broad Walk, and the Round Pond, though 
for the most part constructed by Bridgeman, still show traces 
of Le Notre's style in design. John Evelyn paid a visit here 
in 1690. He says, "I went to Kensington, which King 
William had bought of Lord Nottingham, and alter'd, but 
'twas yet a patch'd building, but with the garden however it 
is a very sweete villa, having to it the Park, and a straight 
new way through this Park." Evidently the King was losing 
no time in making his improvements. Next year another 
writer describes the gardens as being " not great nor abound- 
ing in fine plants but the walks and grass were very fine, and 
they were digging up a plot of four or five acres to enlarge 
their gardens." And soon afterwards the result is spoken of 
as having been " the admiration of every lover of that kind 
of horticultural embellishment." As in his work going on 
at Hampton Court, so also at Kensington, William engaged 
the partners, London and Wise, to supervise the planting, 
path-making, levelling and turfing of lawns, and all other 
details of garden construction. The success of their work 
here soon led to their being employed in other parts of 
England ; and about this time they laid out gardens at 
Blenheim, which were afterwards re-made by Brown ; and 
shortly before, they had done the same at Chatsworth. It 
is to be inferred from all this that they now worked inde- 
pendently of Le Notre, from whom they had learnt so much 
— and Addison, in 171 1 or 17 12, when drawing an analogy 
between gardening and poetry (in No. 477 of The Spectator), 
gives all the credit to " Wise and London (who) are our 



§4 ROYAL GARDENS 

heroic poets ; and if as a critic I may single out any passage 
of their works to commend, I shall take notice of that part 
in the upper garden at Kensington which was at first nothing 
but a gravel-pit. It must have been a fine genius for garden- 
ing, that could have thought of forming such an unsightly 
hollow into so beautiful an area, and to have hit the eye with 
so uncommon and agreeable a scene as that which it is now 
wrought into." 

In 1 69 1 part of the " new house at Kensington " was burnt, 
but it was soon restored. And about five years afterwards 
Evelyn went to see it in its, for the time being, finished 
condition. He says, " It is very noble, tho' not greate," 
and " the gardens about it very delicious." And in that state 
it was when William died. 

Queen Anne very often resided at Kensington Palace. And 
during her reign several important improvements were made. 
Bowack, in 1705, says there was in the garden "a noble 
collection of foreign plants, and fine neat greens, which 
makes it pleasant all the year. Her Majesty has been pleased 
lately to plant near 30 acres more to the north, separated 
from the rest only by a stately greenhouse, not yet finished." 
This must refer to Wren's beautiful Orangery which is such 
a notable feature in the gardens now. Originally built as a 
banqueting-house it was sometimes used for the purpose, 
and at others for Watteau-like fetes and entertainments. It 
was behind this building that Thackeray makes the interview 
between Queen Anne and the " old Pretender " take place. 
Every one will remember his wonderful account of it in 
Esmond. Thackeray once lived almost in sight of this 
very spot, for he built himself a house on the west side of 
Palace Gardens ; and many references to Kensington occur 
in his works. When the Court finally left the palace, 
Wren's fine building was converted into a ' greenhouse,' or 
Orangery, and as such it exists to this day. 

In the additions to the garden made by Queen Anne, 
Henry Wise was employed alone ; and the fact of the 
gardens being described by Evelyn in September 1701 as 




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KENSINGTON PALACE 85 

" the work of Mr, Wise," seems to make it probable that 
his partner, London, died somewhere about 1700. The 
next famous garden designer who had to do with Kensington 
Palace was Bridgeman. He was employed by George IL 
and Queen Caroline to lay out about 300 acres which were 
enclosed by them. Bridgeman, in addition to accepting 
some of the principles of Le Notre, was also the fore- 
runner of Brown, and was in reality the first landscape- 
gardener in England of the " Natural " school, though 
it has been generally thought that Brown invented that 
method of garden design. Bridgeman's ideas of the pic- 
turesque led him to do away with much of the stiff 
formality of the style which was the outcome of a combina- 
tion of William's Dutch and Le Notre's French tastes. His 
destruction was not, however, ruthless, for he retained a 
certain amount of formality near the palace, and the three 
straight avenues radiating towards Hyde Park. He con- 
structed the Round Pond, and probably the two Broad 
Walks, which run north and south, one on the palace, and 
the other on the park side of the basin. With the exception 
of a large curtailment to the north-west, Kensington Palace 
Gardens are now very much as they were planned and left by 
Bridgeman. He was the inventor of the sunk, or " ha-ha " 
fence. The old high walls were taken down by him, and in 
parts replaced by the new kind of boundary, in order not to 
interrupt clear views of Hyde Park from the palace. Besides 
his fondness for open glades and close thickets, or wildernesses, 
Bridgeman had a warm admiration for parterres of flowers 
and fine stretches of level lawn. For the most part the 
placing of these embellishments was left to Kent, and were 
carried out in part by him and afterwards completed by 
Brown. Kent had been employed by George L as architect 
for some additions to the palace, and as ceiling and wall 
painter in its interior. It is difficult to decide whether it 
was as architect, painter or as garden designer that Kent 
displayed his lack of taste to the greatest extent. He de- 
signed the east front of the palace, and the thin pretentious- 



86 



ROYAL GARDENS 



ness of his work compared with the simple ornamentation 
and noble proportions of the parts designed by Wren, makes 
it a matter for profound regret that the latter did not com- 
plete the whole building. 

The last considerable additions to the palace were made 
by the Duke of Sussex, sixth son of George III. It is a 
large and irregular building, with three quadrangles ; and, 
as might be expected, is somewhat incongruous in its archi- 
tecture. Its interior is very much finer than the outside 
appearance would suggest, and the state apartments are hand- 
some and well-proportioned. Leigh Hunt, in his charming 
gossipy manner, says, " It can be imagined full of English 
comfort, it is quiet, in a good air, and though it is a palace, 
no tragical history is connected with it ; all which considera- 
tions give it a sort of homely, fireside character, which seems 
to represent the domestic side of royalty itself, and thus 
renders an interesting service to what is not always so well 
recommended by cost and splendour. Windsor Castle is a 
place to receive monarchs in ; Buckingham Palace, to see 
fashion in ; Kensington Palace seems a place to drink tea 
in ; and this is by no means a state of things in which the 
idea of royalty comes least home to the good wishes of its 
subjects." 

Many members of the Royal Family have resided here, and 
many interesting and important events have happened in the 
old palace. Princess Caroline of Wales spent three or four 
years of her unhappy life at Kensington ; and here resided, at 
one time, the Duke of Kent. It was in Kensington Palace 
that, on the 24th of May 18 19, his only daughter Princess 
Victoria was born ; and here most of the years of her child- 
hood were passed. She used to take her walks, or drive in a 
little carriage, almost daily in the gardens ; and it was in the 
adjoining palace that very early in the morning of June 20, 
1837, one of the most touching and memorable scenes in 
history took place : the announcement that she, an inex- 
perienced girl of eighteen, was Queen of England. 

In Kensington Palace, then. Queen Victoria began her 



KENSINGTON PALACE 87 

long and most eventful reign, and here she held her first 
Court. But she never actually resided there after coming to 
the throne. In fact George II. was the last English sovereign 
to make any permanent use of Kensington as a royal residence. 
For it was within a year or two of the accession of George III. 
that Buckingham House was purchased by the Crown, and 
became, and has ever since been used as, the London palace 
of the Sovereign. Their Royal Highnesses Princess Louise, 
Duchess of Argyll, and Princess Beatrice, Princess Henry of 
Battenberg, both have, at the present time, a London residence 
in the old palace at Kensington. 

A most interesting plan by Rocque, dated 1736, shows 
that comparatively few changes were made between his time 
and that in which Kensington Gardens were thrown open to 
the public. Before that privilege was granted, they were, of 
course, the private pleasure-grounds of royalty, but permission 
to visit them began to be given, for Saturdays, by George II. 
and Queen Caroline, who generally went to Richmond on 
that day. And when in 1760 the Court ceased to reside at 
Kensington, the public was admitted daily during the summer 
months. A few years later the time was further extended, 
and Sir Richard Phillips in his Modern London, published in 
1804, says they were open to the public from spring to 
autumn. Thirty-five years afterwards, the gardens were " open 
all the year round, to all respectably dressed persons from 
sunrise to sunset." It is therefore to Queen Victoria, with 
her natural kindness of disposition and her particular attach- 
ment to the place of her birth and the home of her youth, 
that the privilege of visiting these gardens, as well as those at 
Hampton Court and Kew, is mainly due. Privileges which, 
for the pleasure and recreation given to thousands of her 
grateful subjects, it is impossible to over-estimate. 

About 1840 Kensington Gardens were greatly improved 
by being better drained, turf being re-laid, and a large number 
of trees and shrubs planted. At this time, too, most of the 
old high walls not removed by Bridgeman were taken down. 



88 



ROYAL GARDENS 



and handsome iron railings put up in their place. Ten or 
eleven years later, at the time of the first Great Exhibition, 
a new walk — running north and south, and crossing the main 
central avenue — was made in that part of the gardens which 
lies on the eastern bank of the Serpentine, or ' New River.' 
And at the same time a large number of rare imported shrubs 
were planted also in this part of the grounds. Weale, in his 
London^ published in 1851, says, "It is in the introduction 
of these rarer plants that the idea of a ' garden ' is, perhaps, 
better sustained than in most of the other features of the 
place, which are those of a park." He goes on to urge the 
planting of many more shrubs and a greater variety of trees 
to form a sort of undergrowth, to still further soften the effect 
of the too park-like gardens. This has, in part, been carried 
out, and but for several good reasons against the encourage- 
ment of over-much underwood, doubtless more might have 
been done towards improving the gardens in this respect. 

The poet Crabbe, writing in his diary early in the nine- 
teenth century, says, " Drove to Kensington Gardens, they 
have a very peculiar effect ; not exhilarating, I think, yet 
alive and pleasant." The description " not exhilarating " would 
have passed as a true criticism a very few years ago. But 
H.M. OfHce of Works — under whose control and supervision 
the gardens now are — has, among several considerable im- 
provements, recently made one of the first importance. A 
few yards from the north-east corner of the palace, a sunk or 
pond garden has been constructed. It is on the lines of the 
famous one at Hampton Court, but is not by any means 
a slavish copy, and is many times larger than its prototype. 
The work has been splendidly carried out, and the inevit- 
able look of newness is now fast disappearing. The garden 
covers an oblong plot about 30 yards wide and three times 
as many long. A low brick wall surrounds it, with pillars 
and iron gates in the middle of each side. To the north, 
about 60 yards away, stands Wren's beautiful old building ; 
the ground in front of which has recently been re-laid in lawns 
and flower borders. The main avenue running east and west 



THE NEW POND GARDEN AND QUEEN ANNE'S ORANGERY, 

KENSINGTON PALACE 



KENSINGTON PALACE 89 

(which includes the Round Pond), passes close to the north 
side of the new sunk garden. Above the boundary wall on 
this side, lime trees, trained so as to leave ' peep-holes ' for 
inspection of the garden within, are growing. Round the 
other three sides there is a gravel walk, under a tunnel or 
bower of limes, in the inner wall of which also there are 
little ' windows ' left. In the garden, terraces adorned with 
countless brilliant flowers, and divided from each other by 
turfed walks and very low brick walls, descend in easy gradation 
to a stone pavement. In the middle of this there is a long, 
narrow water tank, which is planted with many aquatics : 
lilies, sedges and the like. And raised above the water on 
stone pedestals are three fine antique cisterns of lead, in which 
little fountains play. On the water's verge, square stone 
boxes, or vases, in which grow showy semi-aquatic plants 
such as agapanthus, are placed at intervals. From each of the 
four gates paved slopes lead down to the broad pavement 
surrounding the pond. The methods of horticulture adopted 
here are excellent, and from early spring to late autumn a 
constant succession of most beautiful flowers can be seen. 
To stand in the cool shadow of the leafy tunnel and look 
through one of its windows on to the gorgeous display of sunlit 
flowers within, is to enjoy a pleasure which it would be difficult 
to exaggerate. 

Strikingly handsome iron gates have, within the last few 
years, been placed at the palace end of the central avenue. 
And in addition to all the work of constructing and furnish- 
ing the new sunk garden, and of laying out the ground on its 
north side, much is now in progress behind the charming old 
Orangery. According to Rocque's plan there was once a 
large piece of garden to the north-west of the palace. Most 
of this has passed into other hands, and houses — known as 
Kensington Palace Gardens — have been built. But a new 
drive, from Bayswater Hill on Oxford Road, is now being 
made, and trees to form an avenue are being planted. 

A small part of the old gardens adjoining the palace on 
south and east has all along been retained for the privacy and 

M 



90 ROYAL GARDENS 

convenience of its inmates. Near the eastern boundary of this, 
in front of the palace she was born in, facing the huge capital 
of the Empire she was called upon to rule, a noble statue of 
Queen Victoria has been modelled, and recently erected to her 
memory by her daughter. Princess Louise. 

Another piece of statuary has within the last twelve months 
been placed here. Every one will remember it was in Ken- 
sington Gardens that ' Peter Pan ' met with some of his sur- 
prising adventures. To commemorate the pleasure which 
this delightful character has given to so many children — 
young and old, — an exquisitely fanciful figure ^ of the boy 
*' who wouldn't grow up " has been given a place in the 
grounds his spirit may almost be said to haunt. The idea of 
erecting this emblem of all that is most charming and innocent 
in a child among the tree-shaded lawns that have for nearly a 
hundred years been a playground for countless thousands of 
London's children, is one of such surpassing beauty that it 
seems to belong rightly to the age of Theocritus rather than 
to the hurried days of the twentieth century. Or is it a sign 
that there is still a good deal of poetry left, latent and seldom 
expressed it may be, in a nation sometimes supposed to be 
merely prosaic and entirely addicted to money-making ? 
Another valuable idea has just borne fruit at Kensington, 
and a portion of the palace, by the late King's wish, is now 
devoted to the new London Museum. 

For all these and many other additions and embellishments 
which have been, or are being, brought to perfection, num- 
berless visitors to Kensington Palace and Gardens are duly 
grateful. It is highly satisfactory to observe that all the works 
so far completed have been carried out in a spirit of reverence 
for times past, and with an enlightened taste. They are truly 
appreciated, and the privilege of being able to see them at 
close quarters affords an enormous amount of enjoyment and 
recreation to every class in the great community of London. 

^ By Sir George Framplon, R.A. 



CHAPTER VIII 



HOLYROOD PALACE 

Of all the royal palaces in Great Britain, Holyrood has had 
by far the most chequered career. To give a full account of 
the many vicissitudes through which it has passed would 
involve writing the history of Scotland for nearly eight cen- 
turies. Founded as an Abbey in 1128, its situation on the 
eastern outskirts of Edinburgh soon marked it out as a 
suitable residence for Scottish kings. During nearly four 
hundred years they went there, when state business called 
them to the capital, as visitors. But the fact of one king, 
David I., having been its founder, and many subsequent 
sovereigns its benefactors, gradually established a sort of right, 
and the Abbey became a recognised royal residence. James IV. 
found the old buildings too small to accommodate his house- 
hold, and early in his reign the first palace was built. The 
only part of this building which has survived the numerous 
sackings, burnings and destructions that have taken place, is 
the north-west tower. 

The next addition was erected by James V. But this did 
not last long, for in 1 544 Edinburgh " was sacked ; the beau- 
tiful Abbey of Holyrood was laid in ashes, James V.'s new 
palace was gutted " by the English under Hertford. A 
second destruction took place only three years later. By that 
time the monks had fled, the palace was more or less in ruins, 
but the Abbey roof was still intact. The soldiers of Hertford, 
now Duke of Somerset, stripped off the lead to make bullets, 
and left the ancient building to the mercy of rain and snow. 
Twenty years afterwards a still more cruel demolition of the 

church took place. Choir and transepts were wilfully pulled 

91 



92 ROYAL GARDENS 

down in order that the materials might " provide funds for 
converting the nave into the Parish Kirk of the Canongate." 
Thus to the bitter disasters of war were added the still more 
fatal and ruthless desecration of the building contractor. 

It cannot be supposed that the old gardens, established by 
the monks during the first peaceful years of the Abbey's history, 
failed to suffer from the destructiveness of these later troubled 
times. But, strangely enough, a most interesting plan by James 
Gordon, parson of Rothiemay, drawn in 1646 or 1647, repre- 
senting the palace as it was in Mary Queen of Scots' time, 
shows the gardens apparently well kept up and laid out in 
accordance with the best ideas of the period. 

In many respects the years 1561 to 1567 may well be 
described as the ' golden age ' of Holyrood. Mary had passed 
her youth in France, and brought to Scotland many notions 
of a more polite way of life than had been common there 
before. Her Court was as gay as the impoverished condition 
of her country would allow. Sports and games were revived 
or introduced. Masques and plays were performed. Nor 
were reading and music absent from her scheme of life. 
Randolph, English ambassador at Holyrood, writes to Cecil, 
" The Queen readeth daily after her dinner, instructed by a 
learned man, Mr. George Buchanan, somewhat of Livy ; " 
and inventories of her library show that it was well supplied 
with books. Many contemporary writers have left descrip- 
tions of her life at Holyrood. From one, a pretty picture of 
Queen Mary with "the four maids of honour who passed 
with her Highness in France, of her own age, bearing 
the name every one of Mary," may be drawn. The young 
Queen and her four Maries can be imagined sitting and work- 
ing at embroidery while one or other of them made music 
or read aloud. In sunny weather they would repair to the 
garden, which in those days was laid out in secluded plots, 
pleasances and alleys. 

But these peaceful beginnings lasted a very short time. 
They were succeeded by terribly tragic events. The execu- 
tion of Chastelard and the rebellion of Moray were followed 




THE PALACE OF HOLYROOD HOUSE 
Showing the North and South Gardens in the time of Mary Queen of Scots 
From a plaie in Sir Herbert Maxwell's "Official Guide to Holyrood House," by permission of H.M. Stationery Office 

REFERENCES 

I. The Palace. 2. King James IV. 's Tower. 3. Nave of the Abbey Church. 4. North Garden. 
5. Croft-an-Righ House. 6. St. Anne's Yards. 7. The South Gardens. 




I 



HOLYROOD PALACE 93 

by the murder of Rizzio. Mary had married Darnley in 1565, 
and a son, afterwards James VI. of Scotland, was born the 
following year. Six months later Darnley himself shared 
Rizzio's fate. Another six months, and Mary left Holyrood 
never to return. 

Her son James, after a troubled regency, came to the 
Scottish throne in 1578 ; and, on the death of Elizabeth, to 
that of England in 1603. Since then Holyrood has seldom 
been resided in by British sovereigns. The palace was 
neglected, its park and gardens not kept up. When James, 
after fourteen years in England, once again visited his Scotch 
capital a great deal of work was necessary to make Holyrood fit 
to receive him. He stayed there a month, and when he left 
promised to return, but he came back no more. Charles I. 
was crowned at Holyrood in 1633, eight years after his 
accession to the two thrones, which, if not yet legally, were 
to all practical intents united. His second and last visit was 
in 1 64 1, two years after the Civil War broke out. 

During the Commonwealth Cromwell's soldiers, who 
were quartered in Holyrood after the battle of Dunbar, acci- 
dentally it is said, burned the palace down. The Lord Pro- 
tector rebuilt its west front, and the work was completed in 
the year of his death. But to Charles H., with his fondness 
for architecture, must be given the credit of having brought 
Holyrood into its present condition. He never visited Scot- 
land after the Restoration, though he was crowned King of 
that part of the island two years after his father's execution. 
But he gave orders to Sir William Bruce in 1671 to reconstruct 
the palace. Cromwell's west front was taken down, a tower 
corresponding to James IV. 's was erected in the south-west 
corner ; these were connected by the present west front, and 
a new plain but dignified building reared behind it. The old 
Abbey Church, which joins Charles's palace at the north-east 
corner, was repaired and re-constituted as the Chapel Royal 
of Holyrood House, 

Twenty-three years after the brief brilliance of Charles 
Edward's visit in 1745, one more, and the final, destruction 



94 ROYAL GARDENS 

took place. An attempt was made to repair the Chapel roof. 
Owing, it was said, to no expert advice having been sought, 
a far greater weight than the old walls were able to support 
was placed upon them, with disastrous results. The whole 
roof fell in, and dragged with it the beautiful old clerestory. 
The Chapel has never been restored. 

During the nineteenth century several visits to the ancient 
palace were made by British sovereigns, George IV. went 
there in 1822, and Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort 
paid their first visit in 1842. The former visit is chiefly 
noteworthy from the fact that it led to the sum of ^^24,000 
being voted by Parliament for repairs to the palace, and for 
putting the grounds in order. Queen Victoria's had con- 
siderably more important and lasting results. Holyrood was 
found to be in a condition unfit to receive her. But both 
she and Prince Consort were fond of building and planting, 
and a great deal of work was put in hand without delay, and 
more projected, in order to make the old palace once more a 
suitable residence for royalty. As a consequence, not only 
on their second visit in 1850 and often afterwards did they 
make use of Holyrood as a resting-place when travelling to 
and from Balmoral, but it has never again been allowed to 
get into a really bad state of repair. 

Edward VII. held a levee in the palace during his first 
visit to Scotland after his Coronation ; and many improve- 
ments were effected, and a very considerable amount of deco- 
ration and ornamentation was carried out for the reception of 
Their Majesties King George V. and Queen Mary in July 
191 1. They then met with such a notably loyal and enthu- 
siastic welcome that no surprise would be felt if a second visit, 
at no very distant date, were made to the ancient palace of 
Holyrood House. 

The garden at Holyrood is chiefly remarkable for the 
beauty of its surroundings on south and east, and for the 
utter unworthiness of those on west and north sides. Dismal 
buildings and noisy factories have been allowed to encroach ; 



HOLYROOD PALACE 95 

fumes and smoke make horticultural efforts difficult, and 
results rather disappointing. In spite of all drawbacks, how- 
ever, a brave show is made, and splendid masses of flowers 
with bright and exquisitely assorted colours are displayed 
during the summer months. What the garden lacks most 
of all is a definite and uniform design. It is much to be 
regretted that it has never been restored to something like 
the state it was in when Gordon of Rothiemay's plan was 
drawn. Its appearance now is mainly one of bleak and 
exposed lawns, in which some formal beds — adorned with 
flowers, beautiful and exceedingly well cultivated in them- 
selves — occur here and there to break the monotony of wide 
expanses. But if the garden in parts were subdivided into 
secluded and sheltered pleasances, similar flowers cultivated 
with the same care and enthusiasm would give a very much 
greater amount of pleasure. The garden then would not be 
all seen at once. Mystery and the charm of surprise would 
be added. Backgrounds and shelter for the plants would be 
supplied by the hedges or walls separating its component 
parts. 

Everything is ready for some such treatment in the north 
garden. From here is a superb view of the bold escarpment 
of Salisbury Crags, around the base and up to the summit of 
which was the favourite walk of Sir Walter Scott when he 
lived in Edinburgh. Nearer, a most interesting and unique 
background to the garden is provided by the oldest part of 
the palace — James IV.'s tower ; and a ready-made centre is 
already there — one of the finest old sundials in Great Britain. 
This was discovered in a ruinous and neglected condition by 
Queen Victoria and Prince Consort. By their orders it was 
carefully and thoroughly restored and erected in its present 
position. Made by John Milne, a mason-genius of Charles I.'s 
time, it is of what is known as the facet-headed type. It 
presents no fewer than twenty surfaces, each having a dial ; 
and originally had twenty-nine gnomons to indicate the flight 
of time. The sundial is about ten feet high and stands on 
a bold base of four steps of unequal height. Its head is sup- 



96 ROYAL GARDENS 

ported by an exquisitely carved and very well-proportioned 
shaft. On two sides behind this beautiful work of the old- 
time craftsman, there are charming borders of gay and bril- 
liant flowers. And if the other two sides were enclosed and 
similarly planted, an exquisite little pleasance-garden would 
be achieved. 

On the further side of an approach to the palace 
from the north made by Prince Consort, and probably once 
included in the garden, stands a most interesting and pic- 
turesque little building traditionally known as Queen Mary's 
Bath-house. The old tennis-court was once close by ; and 
though generations of antiquaries have been puzzled by the 
origin and use for which the bath-house was built, its near- 
ness to the tennis-court seems to suggest that tradition has 
preserved its real intention. Another very interesting old 
building stands at the north-east corner of the garden. This 
is one of the most perfect specimens of a Scots house of 
the sixteenth century in existence. Once the residence of 
Queen Mary's half-brother, Earl of Moray and Regent of 
Scotland, it is perhaps especially remarkable for a most 
beautiful contemporary ceiling in plaster-work. Its design 
seems to suggest that it formerly covered one large room, 
which is now divided into three by partitions. The house, 
called Croft-an-Righ, or the King's Croft, is occupied by 
the palace gardener, and it is, therefore, only by courtesy 
of its inmates that the interior can be seen. 

From this north-east corner of the garden there is a par- 
ticularly striking view of the ruined Abbey Church or Chapel 
Royal, with its superb background of wild moorland and 
rugged precipice. The highest point is known as Arthur's 
Seat, the lower slopes of which, together with the valley 
between it and Salisbury Crags, were once covered with 
forest. But in the long and expensive wars with England, 
oak and pine were over valuable to be preserved for merely 
ornamental purposes, and Scotland too impoverished to replant 
when the old trees were once cut down. All this country 
to the south of Holyrood is finely described in The Heart 



THE ABBEY CHURCH, OR CHAPEL ROYAL, IN HOLYROOD 

GARDENS 



i 



1 



HOLYROOD PALACE 97 

of Midlothian^ and many of the most romantic and thrilling 
episodes in that famous novel were enacted here. Of the 
old Abbey Church, as has been said, only a ruined nave now 
remains. At its east end, during the last few years, extensive 
excavations have been made. They have revealed many traces 
of old foundations of choir and transepts destroyed in the 
sixteenth century, and show what a magnificent building 
it must have been in olden times. Outside the north-east 
corner of the church is a mural tablet to John Milne, the 
famous master-mason. Besides the sundial mentioned before, 
and many splendid carvings both in and outside the palace, he 
designed and executed a superb and most original balustraded 
staircase in stone, which leads to the private apartments of 
the Sovereign. 

The half quadrangle enclosed on two sides by the Abbey 
and east front of the palace, presents another fine opportunity 
for a garden restoration. Here was the old bowling-green, 
and a little to the south-east, near the gateway to Parson's 
Green, were St. Anne's Yards. Some parts of these might 
well be enclosed once more, leaving the extensive lawn to 
the south of the palace for royal garden-parties and outdoor 
receptions. A third and smaller ' privy garden,' opposite 
the south-west tower, would complete the design. Alongside 
the boundary here, there is a wide border filled with gay but 
harmonious colour of countless beautiful flowers. They are 
shown to great advantage by means of a shrubbery — consist- 
ing for the most part of evergreens — behind them. If, from 
the large expanse of lawn, hedges or walls were made to cut 
off a small plot planted in the same manner as the border 
already existing, and a water garden with fountains, for 
instance, were introduced as a centre, a very fine effect would 
be created, and the whole garden would once again become 
a place of " pleached alleys and secluded pleasances." 

Enough has been said to show that notwithstanding all its 
atmospheric disadvantages, all the many years of neglect it 
has sufi^ered in the past, the garden at Holyrood is not only 
well kept up and cultivated now, but that the splendour of 

N 



98 ROYAL GARDENS 

its natural surroundings and the extraordinary historic interest 
of the buildings it contains give it a great opportunity for 
being made into one of the most beautiful, as it is one of the 
most romantic, royal palaces in Great Britain. 



HOLYROOD PALACE 
ITS GARDEN AND PARK 
By Mr. W. SMITH, Head Gardener 

Comparatively few records anent the horticulture practised 
at Holyrood in olden days are now in existence. And this 
is the more remarkable when we see the extensive north and 
south gardens of 1648, depicted on a plan of the Palace in 
that period. This plan shows that an extensive area was 
devoted to horticulture at that time, and also that there were 
orchards or woodlands to the north and south of the Palace, 
as well as beautifully designed parterres and pleached alleys 
around it. 

The form of the garden at the present time is in the shape 
of a parallelogram, and its area extends to about 16 acres. It 
follows in general design a plan made by Prince Consort, in 
or about 1857. The Palace buildings stretch out to the east 
in the centre of the garden, and thus divide the ground into 
what are known as the North and South Gardens. The 
whole is practically level, but on the east side soil has been 
raised to the top of the boundary wall, and outside this wall 
(one of the boundaries of Holyrood Park) a walk, open to the 
public, is so much below the garden level that pedestrians 
cannot be seen from the Palace windows. Apart from the 
historical buildings of the Palace itself the North Garden con- 
tains many objects of antiquarian interest, such as the ruins 
of the Abbey or Chapel Royal of Holyrood, and a beautiful 
sundial, dating from 1633. 

Owing to the close proximity of several industrial concerns 
on the west, many species of trees and shrubs make com- 



THE NORTH GARDEN, HOLYROOD PALACE 



HOLYROOD PALACE 



99" 



paratively little growth. The trees making most satisfactory- 
progress are the Scotch or Wych Elm (Ulmus montana). 
Common Ash (Fraxinus excelsior), and one of the " service " 
trees (Pyrus hybrida). These are the trees of most arborescent 
growth, but many sub-arborescent species do well and flower 
freely ; especially the Siberian Crab (Pyrus baccata), Apple 
(Pyrus malus) and Pear (Pyrus communis). The two latter 
fruit very freely in autumn. Laburnums flower more freely 
here than in some more favourable localities ; while the 
many varieties of Hawthorn (Crataegus Oxyacantha) are 
specially attractive in spring. In the North Garden, a fine 
specimen of the Golden Ash (Fraxinus excelsior, var. 
aurea) is very conspicuous when in leaf, as also are several 
Golden Poplars (Populus deltoides, var. aurea) on the south 
lawn. 

Many species of shrubs are grown here, and those of a 
flowering nature are very beautiful in their seasons. Among 
the most ornamental of the evergreen shrubs are many varie- 
ties of Rhododendron. Garrya elliptica (with its clusters of 
greenish-yellow catkins) and Cytisus praecox (wreathed, in 
early spring, with sulphur-yellow blossoms) make a fine 
show. While the deciduous species, in the multi-coloured 
forms of Diervilla florida, Buddleia globosa (with its round 
orange-coloured heads), the charming mauve-tinted Buddleia 
variabilis, Philadelphus (of various species, with their white 
odoriferous flowers) and shrubby Spiraeas may be mentioned 
among many others. 

Roses are not very largely grown, the Hybrid Perpetuals 
being the kind usually planted, of which the variety Hugh 
Dickson succeeds best, while the Hybrid Tea (var. Caroline 
Testout) flowers freely. 

Owing to the very exposed position of the garden on 
the east side, and as the prevailing wind is from the south- 
west, flower-gardening presents many difficulties. Only 
plants of small growth can be utilised with any success in 
the beds on the lawns. For planting these (for the summer 
months) zonal-leaved Pelargoniums have been found to be the 



lOO 



ROYAL GARDENS 



most suitable, and success with many varieties has been very 
encouraging. The rich fiery-scarlet flowered variety Paul 
Crampel is planted very largely ; and when in bloom its strong 
colour shows up well against the sombre grey buildings of 
the old palace. In isolated beds on the lawns, too, it is very 
effective. Another brilliant Pelargonium used here is a 
variety called Constance, which is very free flowering, and 
has long-stalked flowers of a rich rosy-pink with a white 
eye. A large bed planted with this on the north lawn was 
one of the features of the garden during the summer of 191 1. 
Even when viewed from a distance of half a mile its colour 
was easily detected. White flowers do not lend themselves 
to employment here, owing to their easily becoming soiled 
with soot. But Pelargonium Dr. Nansen, a desirable free- 
flowering white, is utilised for introduction into certain 
colour schemes. Flower-gardening often calls for the use 
of some of the Pelargoniums with variegated foliage, and at 
Holyrood they are usually massed together in groups of one 
kind. Varieties used are such as Marshal MacMahon, with 
gold and bronze leaves and scarlet flowers ; also a variety 
with similar foliage called Harry Hieover ; while for filling 
large circular beds on the lawn, we employ a charming 
variety called Crystal Palace Gem, which is a bicolour, 
with greenish-yellow leaves and bright scarlet flowers. Its 
foliage assumes a lovely golden hue in summer, and it is not 
only a robust grower but thrives well in an exposed position. 
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are not largely planted owing to the 
strong winds that sweep the garden. But an exception is 
made in a variety called Galilee, which has a dwarf habit, 
and produces double flowers of a soft pink colour in profusion. 
In addition to the above named, other varieties, such as J. T. 
Hamilton, Salmon Paul Crampel, and Chingford Rose, among 
others, are planted. The different varieties of Pelargoniums 
have been enumerated somewhat fully because they form the 
great bulk of the plants used in filling the flower-beds, and 
are annually planted in thousands. Only one variety is used 
in each bed, as thereby a more uniform effect is secured on 



HOLYROOD PALACE 



lOI 



the large expanses of green lawn than could be obtained by 
mixed planting. 

All through the shrubbery-beds, and in groups in mixed 
borders, thousands of the bright deep-scarlet Gladiolus 
Brenchleyensis are annually planted ; and during August 
and September 191 1 they made a most imposing display. 
In one bed, during the latter part of August, fully 3000 
spikes were open at the same time. For contrast with 
G. Brenchleyensis, a variety named Carnation, with flowers 
of a pinky-white shade, is also planted in quantity. Many of 
the other Gladiolus Gandavensis type are used, including, 
among others, the varieties Amerique, Le Phare, Hollandia 
and Matador. 

Annual borders are made a special feature at Holyrood. 
They are placed in front of the shrubberies, where the 
various hues of the flowers get a splendid background from 
the dark-green foliage behind. Of the large number of 
different plants used (which again are planted on the group 
system), violas give the best return. Here they grow luxu- 
riantly, and continue in bloom from mid-April to late 
October. During 191 1, over thirty varieties were grown, 
the best being Alexandra, white ; Bridal morn, light mauve ; 
Maggie Mott, bright mauve ; Redbraes, yellow ; and Royal 
Scott, deep blue. Every variety grows and flowers freely, 
but those named have blooms of the most telling colours. 
Sweet peas are grown in groups at the back of the borders, 
and, considering atmospheric conditions, they do very well 
and bloom freely. The varieties grown generally comprise 
those whose colours are orange-pink, scarlet, maroon, pale 
pink and salmon. Nemesias (of the Reading strain) are 
largely planted in their numerous varieties, and, as they grow 
well and flower profusely in Scotland, the different colours 
they present are a source of admiration throughout the 
summer months. 

Antirrhinums are now among the most popular of summer 
flowers ; and when grouped together (one colour to a group), 
they create a very pleasing effect in both tall and inter- 



I02 



ROYAL GARDENS 



mediate varieties. Both they and Pentstemons are grown 
in quantity at Holyrood ; and where fine floral effects are 
desired, such varieties of the latter as Southgate Gem (a 
massive free-flowering pink) and Newbury Gem (a dwarf 
variety with graceful spikes of glowing scarlet) may be 
counted on to add considerable interest to a mixed border. 
The various forms of Mimulus (monkey flowers) are much 
admired, especially the spotted varieties with curious markings 
and pencillings on their petals ; and Verbenas, of such varieties 
as Princess of Wales and Miss Willmott, are equally appre- 
ciated. Dahlias, too, are very popular, free-flowering autumn 
plants ; and for the borders here, principally the Paeony- 
flowered varieties (with their large and handsome semi- 
double blooms), and the Cactus-flowered group (with their 
artistic-looking flowers and long narrow petals), are grown. 
Also the Pompone section, which form compact decorative 
bushes with small globular flowers, are used. 

It is practically impossible to enter into a fully detailed 
description of the borders, as so many genera find a place in 
them. But bare mention must be made of Nicotianas, in 
various colours, whose flowers are so fragrant in the evening ; 
annual Lupins, with their long handsome spikes in different 
shades of blue, pink and yellow ; the ever popular sweet- 
smelling Mignonette ; Stocks of numerous varieties ; the 
many types of Dianthus Heddewigii ; Dimorphotheca Auran- 
tiaca, a recently introduced annual with gorgeous orange 
flowers, and its hybrids with their wide range of beautiful 
colours ; Phlox Drummondii of many varieties in harmonious 
colouring ; Stock-flowered Larkspurs in charming shades of 
blue, mauve and rosy-scarlet ; Asters of various types with 
their many lovely and delicate tints ; and the exquisite 
Alonsoas with their pink or bright scarlet flowers ; Marigolds, 
from the tiny Legion of Honour variety to the tall French 
form ; many varieties of summer-flowering annual Chrysan- 
themums of the Star, Carinatum and Coronarium groups, 
while for autumn display the later flowering varieties also 
are extensively planted. 



HOLYROOD PALACE 103 

Fuchsias, of such charming varieties as Madame Cornelh- 
son, Caledonia, Display and Scarcity, flower freely in the 
autumn ; and Celosia plumosa of the orange, scarlet and 
yellow varieties prove very attractive. Petunias of the single 
flowered bedding-out varieties in wide ranges of colours ; 
Heliotropes (with their deliciously scented flowers) in such 
varieties as President Garfield (with mauve-purple blooms). 
Miss Nightingale and Lord Roberts ; and Liliums (such as 
Auratum, Longiflorum and speciosum) give a vast amount 
of pleasure in their various seasons. 

By making use of plants like Arabia Sieboldi, Cordylines, 
Eucalyptus globulus and Grevilla robusta, interest in the 
borders is always sustained until winter with its frost and 
snow sets in. 

Spring bedding, also, is largely carried out. Wall-flowers, 
in such varieties as Vulcan and Cranford Beauty, are exten- 
sively used. And thousands of May-flowering Tulips are 
planted every year, of which Tulipa Gesneriana and its 
varieties, Tulipa Picotee, Golden Crown and many others, 
are used. They attain their full perfection here about the 
middle of May. 

Beyond the garden on the east and south is the Royal 
Park of Holyrood, which for its natural beauty is said to be 
unrivalled. The view from the Palace grounds is truly 
magnificent. On the south are the precipitous cliffs of 
Salisbury Crags, and towering in the centre of the Park, 
the fine hill known as Arthur's Seat forms a most prominent 
object. Skirting the base of the former is a path called the 
Radical Road. From here there is a superb view of the 
famous Castle and city of Edinburgh. And beyond the 
ancient town, the Firth of Forth and distant ranges of hills 
complete a lovely prospect. 

The Royal Park is close on a mile square, and its whole 
surface is of volcanic formation, Arthur's Seat being the 
crater of an extinct volcano. Consequently this tract of 
country is of considerable interest to geologists. And 
botanists also find in it a splendid field for British plants. 



ROYAL GARDENS 



Probably the rarest species to be found here is the Northern 
Spleenwort (Asplenium septentrionalis), a dwarf fern which 
grows on the rock, known as Samson's Ribs, on the south side 
of the Park. From the Palace grounds, an old ruin called 
St. Anthony's Chapel, perched on the cliffs below Arthur's 
Seat, may be observed ; while a small vaulted building, known 
as St. Margaret's Well, stands just outside the gate to the 
South Garden. 

Lying due east of the Palace is an extensive and com- 
paratively level stretch of grass land called Parson's Green, or 
the Parade Ground. It is historically interesting as having 
been the scene of the Royal Reviews held by Queen Victoria 
in i860 and in 1881. The late King, Edward VII., also 
reviewed Volunteer troops on the same ground, in 1905. 
And His Majesty King George V. held a review of Military 
veterans and Boy Scouts, and also presented colours to the 
Royal Scots Regiment there, on the 19th July 191 1. 



CHAPTER IX 



CLAREMONT 

Few people have died so young and yet left so many lasting 
memories as Princess Charlotte, only child of the Prince 
Regent and Princess Caroline of Wales. There is no need to 
recount her sadly restricted childhood — marred by the bitter 
quarrel of her parents — or the painfully tragic circumstances 
of her death ; but the few happy months of real freedom she 
spent at Claremont had so great an influence on the place 
that they can never be forgotten there. The most purely 
ornamental and charming pleasance in the garden was laid 
out and planted under her direction, and still bears her name. 
And in park, pleasure grounds and garden there are many 
other signs of her affection for the only true home she was 
ever permitted to enjoy. 

In 1816 the hopes of the British nation were centred in 
her marriage with Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg ; and in 
that year Claremont became a royal seat, being purchased by 
Government as a home for the newly married couple. It 
is only necessary to refer briefly to the history of the place 
before it became a royal residence. Situated in the parish 
of Esher, county Surrey, about fourteen miles south-west of 
London, it is recognised as one of the most charming and 
pleasant seats in England. Surrounded as it is by beautiful 
and varied rural scenery, it has passed through many hands, 
and has never failed to attract a ready purchaser. In an old 
document dated 1697, it is called Esher House, or Park. 
The first mansion on the site of the present one was erected 
in 1706, for his own occupation, by Sir John Vanbrugh, 
who, besides being a notorious dramatist, was also a famous 

loS o 



io6 



ROYAL GARDENS 



architect. Among many massive, rather grandiose works in 
pseudo-classic style, he built Blenheim for the first Duke of 
Marlborough. During the years it was building he is said 
to have been continuously quarrelled with by the Duchess. 
That is, however, a fate likely to have happened to any one 
employed by the imperious lady. 

Soon after the mansion was finished, the estate was sold 
to Thomas Holies Pelham, Earl of Clare, from whom its 
name is derived. The Earl afterwards became Duke of 
Newcastle and Prime Minister. During his ownership a 
large new reception-room was built without much regard 
for the proportion and parts of Vanbrugh's design, and many 
of the superb trees for which Claremont is famous were 
planted by the Duke. After his death in 1768, the estate 
was bought by the great Lord Clive. He pulled the mansion 
down and erected the present one, which still remains pretty 
much as he left it. He laid out the grounds anew, and 
planted a vast number of trees. The whole of this work 
was entrusted to " Capability " Brown, and cost upwards of 
^100,000. Some authorities say that Kent, who started as a 
painter of landscapes, and after studying in Rome became a 
fashionable landscape-gardener, planned the park and grounds 
at Claremont. However that may be, he and Brown seem 
to have worked together in several instances. With Bridge- 
man, they were employed, either together or within a very 
short time of each other, by Queen Caroline, wife of George 
IL, when she was making important additions to the gardens 
at Kensington Palace. And this may well have happened 
also at Claremont. 

Macaulay, in his well-known essay on Clive, after giving 
him immense credit for the splendour of his achievements in 
India, alluding to the marked unpopularity of returned Anglo- 
Indians says, " Clive was eminently the Nabob, the ablest, 
the most celebrated, the highest in rank, the highest in 
fortune, of all the fraternity. His wealth was exhibited in a 
manner which could not fail to excite odium. He lived with 
great magnificence in Berkeley Square. He reared one palace 



ANNUAL BORDER, PRINCESS CHARLOTTE'S GARDEN, 

CLAREMONT 



CLAREMONT 107 

in Shropshire, and another at Claremont." And again, 
" Brown, whom Clive employed to lay out his pleasure 
grounds, was amazed to see in the house of his noble employer 
a chest which had once been filled with gold from the 
treasury of Moorshedabad, and could not understand how the 
conscience of the criminal could suffer him to sleep with 
such an object so near to his bedchamber. The peasantry 
of Surrey looked with mysterious horror on the stately house 
which was rising at Claremont, and whispered that the 
great wicked lord had ordered the walls to be made so thick 
in order to keep out the devil, who would one day carry him 
away bodily." 

Lord Clive died in 1774, at the age of forty-eight, in a 
*' fit of insanity produced by the ingratitude and persecution ot 
his country." The estate was bought by Lord Galway, then 
by Lord Tyrconnel, who sold it to Mr. Charles R. Ellis, M.P. 
for Seaford. This owner does not appear to have resided 
much at Claremont, because when its purchase from him by 
the nation was under discussion in 18 16, the house and grounds 
were said to be in a bad state of repair, the cost of that item 
alone being estimated at about _^20,ooo. The whole estate, 
including all buildings, furniture and repairs was valued at 
6,000. Crown land had been recently sold for a sum of 
;(^6o,ooo, the two amounts were considered as a set-off to 
each other, Claremont became the property of the Crown, 
and was settled for life on Princess Charlotte and Prince 
Leopold. 

They were married on May 2nd, 18 16, and spent their 
honeymoon at Oatlands Park, between Walton and Weybridge. 
The situation of Claremont made it, in those days of restricted 
travel, peculiarly suitable as a royal residence. Within 
driving distance of London on one side, Windsor on another, 
and Bagshot on a third, it was only three miles or so from a 
fourth royal mansion in Oatlands Park. And Hampton 
Court Palace, with its lovely gardens and parks, though no 
longer a residence of royalty, was within an easy walk. 

When they came to live at Claremont, Princess Charlotte 



io8 



ROYAL GARDENS 



and her husband took the greatest interest in planning and 
carrying out numerous improvements in gardens and pleasure 
grounds. The natural advantages of the place made all 
such w^ork well worth doing. The park contains about 300 
acres, is very well wooded and has a pleasantly undulating 
surface. The views from its highest points are extensive 
and extremely picturesque. From one hill, on a clear day, 
London in one direction, Windsor in another, and the beauti- 
ful hills near Guildford in a third can be seen. And nearer, 
the trees planted about fifty years before by Brown and Kent, 
as well as those — now nearly one hundred years old — by 
Pelham, had become thoroughly established and well grown. 
Many years earlier Thomson in his Seasons had said : 

" Claremont's terraced height and Esher's groves, 
Where in the sweetest solitude, embraced 
By the soft windings of the gentle Mole, 
From courts and senates Pelham found repose." 

Here, also, it is to be hoped, Princess Charlotte found relief 
and repose after her unhappy childhood. At any rate it is 
certain both she and her husband were as seldom away as 
possible. One short visit to her favourite aunt. Princess 
Mary, Duchess of Gloucester, at Bagshot Park and a few 
formal attendances at Court, where she was not too warmly 
welcomed by her grandmother and father, were about the 
only occasions of her absence from Claremont during the few 
months she lived to enjoy it. Possibly dislike of the house 
selected for her in London may have had something to do 
with her reluctance to spend much time there. Camelford 
House was said to have had " nothing to command special 
attention unless it be its mean and dingy appearance." Both 
its situation and approach as well as its looks seem to have 
been unattractive to the Princess. At the time of her death 
negotiations for the lease or purchase of Marlborough House 
were under consideration, but were not completed when that 
most pathetic event occurred. 

In the spring and summer of 18 17 many alterations in 



CLAREMONT 109 

gardens and grounds at Claremont were begun. By the 
advice of Sir Joseph Banks, the famous botanist and President 
of the Royal Society, a Scotchman named Fairbairn was 
appointed head gardener ; but all work came to a sudden 
stop on the death of the Princess before the winter had 
fairly set in. Prince Leopold continued to live for the most 
part in England, but does not seem to have cared to carry on 
the contemplated improvements, or to have spent much time 
at Claremont. In 1831 he became King of the Belgians, 
and married a second time in the following year. His wife 
was the eldest daughter of Louis Philippe, and on the exile 
of the Orleans family from France in 1848, Claremont 
became their home of refuge. Louis Philippe himself only 
lived to enjoy its comfort and beauty for two years, but it 
continued to be the property of King Leopold until his death 
in 1865. During the early years of their married life, Queen 
Victoria and the Prince Consort frequently retired here for 
privacy and repose. In 1843 the Queen wrote, "This place 
has a peculiar charm for us both, and to me it brings back 
recollections of the happiest days of my otherwise dull 
childhood," and it is said that amongst the beautiful glades 
of Claremont she first practised the art of sketching from 
nature. 

On the marriage of Prince Leopold, Duke of Albany, 
with Princess Helena of Waldeck and Pyrmont in 1882, 
Queen Victoria again showed her affection for the place. 
She bought it as her private property, and settled it on her 
son and daughter-in-law for their joint lives. Her Royal 
Highness the Duchess of Albany has resided there for many 
months in every year since her marriage. It may quite 
safely be said that in the two hundred years since Claremont 
became an important seat, none of its occupants have made 
themselves so universally beloved as the Royal lady who 
now owns it. Ever ready in the cause of charity, and ever 
willing to help in all good works, the name of the Duchess 
of Albany, for miles round Esher, is a synonym for gracious 
benevolence. 



1 lO 



ROYAL GARDENS 



Claremont Park is about three and a half miles in circum- 
ference and is, roughly speaking, pear-shaped. Its narrow, 
or north, end abuts on Esher village. Near this corner of 
the estate, a bold eminence called Belvidere Hill rises. Its 
summit is crowned with a remarkably fine group of old Scotch 
firs. From here the park can be seen extending for over a 
mile in a south-westerly direction. At the foot of the hill a 
lodge-guarded entrance gate admits from the Portsmouth 
road. The drive at once enters an avenue of chestnuts planted 
in 1883 by the late Duke of Albany. But the entrance most 
frequently used is away to the left on Claremont Lane, between 
Esher and Oxshott. From Belvidere Hill the mansion appears 
to great advantage. Placed on rising ground near the centre 
and widest part of the park, it has the highest hill (called the 
Mount, on the summit of which is an old observatory tower), 
close to its west side. The house faces south-east, and is 
nearly square in plan. It has a very dignified and imposing 
portico in stone with four outstanding classic columns sur- 
mounted by a handsome pediment, the entablature of which is 
sculptured with Lord Clive's coat of arms. On the north-west 
front there is a terrace balcony with double curving flights 
of steps leading down to a lawn. Formerly, at each corner of 
the mansion there stood a huge cedar, but only two are left 
now, superb old specimens of this stately and solemn tree. 

The pleasure grounds begin at the south-west front of the 
mansion. Across an expanse of beautiful turf the ground rises 
to the Mount, whose sides are entirely covered with innumer- 
able trees of splendid growth and many varieties. Winding 
away to the south of the hill a pathway leads through trees 
and shrubs to a lovely glade. Here there are on all sides extra- 
ordinarily fine specimen trees, seen through whose flickering 
foliage glimpses of the bright and placid waters of the lake 
may be caught. Facing the head of this glade there is a 
charming conservatory summer-house. And a little further 
west, high up on the steep slope of the hill, is a Gothic build- 
ing, sometimes called the Mausoleum, designed by Princess 
Charlotte. The little garden in which it stands offers a 



THE CENTRE WALK, CLAREMONT, LOOKING SOUTH 



CLAREMONT 



1 1 1 



delightful opportunity for rest. The terrace here commands 
a most beautiful view of the lake below and its tree-clad 
island surrounded by far-reaching woodlands, and beyond, 
the Surrey hills between Dorking and Guildford. Around 
the lake are paths and turfy glades, and everywhere are 
tall and stately trees. At one point, on the west, there is a 
boathouse ; at another an arbour, and below a little hill on 
the south a grotto — no doubt designed by Brown or Kent — 
is made in the soft sandstone which is there exposed. 

All through the pleasure grounds, with their most pleasing 
mixture of wild woodland and open glades, the undergrowth 
is for the most part azalea and rhododendron, in which here 
and there are spaces left for cultivated little gardens. The 
extent of the pleasure grounds is about thirty acres, and the 
whole area is a remarkable instance of the interdependence of 
nature and art. Nature formed the hills and valleys, supplied 
the fertile soil ; art planted noble trees and beautiful shrubs, 
and made more or less formal paths ; then nature again came 
to her sister's aid, and by quiet work of many years has 
removed all traces of artificiality, and given its present appear- 
ance of exquisite wildness to this perfect specimen of the art 
of landscape gardening. 

On the opposite or north-east side of the mansion, about 
a furlong away from and below it, the gardens proper are 
placed. They are formed on ground sloping gently to the 
south-east, and cover about six acres, being approximately 
230 yards long and half that amount wide. The area under 
cultivation is considerably increased by orchards and plots 
outside the walls which enclose the principal garden. These 
beautiful old red-brick walls are a special feature at Claremont. 
Judging from the style of buildings here and there incorporated 
with them, from their appearance, thickness, height and 
general design, they were probably erected by Vanbrugh at 
the beginning of the eighteenth century. Their great age 
is shown, too, by the size of several trained and climbing plants 
which clothe them ; notably by one or two magnificent old 
wistarias. Sheltered on all sides by walls and on the north 



112 



ROYAL GARDENS 



by tall elms overtopping them, the garden obtains a great 
amount of sun and very little cold wind. It is divided into 
three nearly equal portions by cross walls running north-west 
and south-east. That part nearest the mansion is again 
divided by a short longitudinal wall. On the north-west of 
this, entered by a path from the house through a doorway 
in the outer wall, is the square plot called Princess Charlotte's 
Garden. In its centre there is a large round fountain-basin. 
This was formerly encircled with ground-ivy, but recently 
a flower border has been made and planted with Dorothy 
Perkins roses on short iron pillars and chains. At equal 
distances on the circumference stand eight vases for flowers, 
and in the lawn beyond, opposite each vase, there is a cir- 
cular rose bed. They are planted with eight different kinds 
of bush roses, one variety to each bed, and ground planted 
with violas. Out of the lawn rise several splendid specimen 
trees, most of which have been planted by very illustrious 
personages. One of the finest is a magnificent deciduous 
cypress. Embracing the lawn is a wide gravel path in horse- 
shoe shape. The north-west wall is almost hidden by the 
splendid old wistaria already mentioned as indicating the age 
of the garden. Under the cross wall which bounds this 
charming retreat on the north-east a wide border for annuals 
completes the delightful and secluded pleasance. 

In addition to the one from the house, two more paths 
lead out of Princess Charlotte's Garden, one near its north 
and the other in its east corner. The latter is the centre 
walk of the whole garden, and has a superb herbaceous 
border on both sides. The glorious colour of the flowers 
is splendidly set off by the beauty and variety of trees and 
old walls acting as backgrounds. All along these lovely 
borders, behind the herbaceous plants, are festoons of roses 
on wooden posts, whose tops support a thick cable of 
hemp, on which the ramblers are trained. Many gardeners, 
nowadays, seem to prefer ropes, instead of iron chains or 
wires, as less likely to cause damage to the tender rose-shoots 
in frosty weather, and this substitution has only recently been 



CLAREMONT iij 

carried out at Claremont. Behind the roses, again, as a 
screen for the kitchen garden on both sides, there is a 
continuous hedge of sweet peas. A very well-designed and 
handsome Jacobean sundial on stone steps occupies the centre 
of the walk, which is widened into a circular form to accom- 
modate it. The further end of the path goes between two 
large evergreen trees into the third part of the garden. 

Here are a palm-house, vineries, carnation-house and 
other conservatories. Besides which it contains a lovely old 
lawn, many extremely rare and beautiful specimen trees, and 
the finest Pterocarya Caucasica, or Caucasian walnut tree, in 
England. Except in the great herbaceous border, the general 
practice at Claremont is to group huge quantities of the 
same flower in separate beds. And certainly the effect of, 
say, 2000 antirrhinums, or a similar number of East Lothian 
stocks, chrysanthemums, asters, pentstemons or gladioli grown 
and displayed in this manner is very splendid. 

It is quite impossible, in a limited space, to mention a 
hundredth part of the beautiful things to be seen here. But, 
in a general way, it may be said that the garden owes a 
great part of its wonderful charm to the element of surprise ; 
which is largely due to the sub-division of its various parts. 
Its leading characteristic is an air of old-time courtly ele- 
gance and refinement, to which the age and colour of its 
surrounding walls, and the variety and beauty of the foliage 
backgrounds, contribute a distinguished share. But if the 
setting is ' old-fashioned,' neither the gems grown nor the 
methods adopted for their cultivation are so by any means. 
The present gardener gained his experience in one of the 
most famous and historical gardens in Scotland. To his 
knowledge, hard work and enthusiasm must be attributed 
in a great measure the vast improvement made at Claremont 
in the three or four years he has been there. The other 
fac ''S which have helped to make the garden so truly 
del itful are the great interest shown in any experimental 
sugg stion for its improvement, and the way in which every 
successful result is appreciated by its royal owner. 

p 



ROYAL GARDENS 



CLAREMONT GARDEN 

By Mr. J. KELLY, Head Gardener 

Historically, Claremont House and gardens are full of 
interest and are associated with many of the chief personages 
and events in the history of our country. Many famous 
names are connected with Claremont, both as owners and 
tenants. It has been the home of statesmen, warriors, princes, 
kings and queens for two centuries. And no wonder, for its 
charm, beauty and reposeful environment must have made a 
peaceful haven for those who rested there from their strenuous 
labours and anxieties. 

Lovely views can be had from elevated parts of the 
estate. And from some such vantage-ground the impression 
created by woods, glades and dells is, that here is a natural 
garden, one for which man can claim but little credit in the 
making. Nature has done so much in the way of providing 
the ideal site — grassy slopes, swelling undulations, a soil in 
which a wealth of species and varieties of plants have found 
a home and are happy ; fine lawns, dotted with handsome 
trees, and, a short distance away, dark woods that seem 
almost primeval in their stateliness and beauty. The gardens 
proper at Claremont lie to the north of the mansion-house, 
and cover about six acres of ground. They are divided into 
several parts by high walls and splendid hedges. And if 
they do not present that spaciousness, which is characteristic 
of many of the noted gardens of England, this is amply 
compensated for by the delightful shade and shelter pro- 
vided. For these hedges and walls have been planned with 
such consummate skill that the visitor has many pleasant 
surprises as he emerges from some archway cut out in a 
century-old living wall of greenery, or turns the corner of a 
shady pathway to be confronted with dazzling flower-beds, or 
with rare trees such as can only be found at Claremont. 

As is to be expected, the garden, besides being a pleasure 



THE OLD SUNDIAL, CLAREMONT 



CLAREMONT 1 1 5 

resort, has also a utilitarian side, where the choicest fruit and 
vegetables are produced, both indoors and in the open. On 
the high brick walls, plums, peaches, cherries, &c., ripen. 
And the supply is augmented by crops grown in extensive 
glass structures. Apples crop heavily, and the smaller fruits 
also invariably produce good supplies. Culinary crops, though 
present, do not detract from the beauty of the garden, but 
are so planted that they can be effectively screened by many 
sorts of flowering plants. For this purpose. Standard and 
Pillar Roses of the Wichuriana type (favourite varieties 
being Dorothy Perkins, Lady Gay and Hiawatha) are used ; 
also Sweet Peas planted in clumps and rows. Sweet-smelling 
flowers fringe many of the paths. Fragrant Lavender and 
Nepeta, Mignonette and other plants associated with old 
English gardens, do not strike one as being out of place 
here. In spring their places are occupied by many Hya- 
cinths, Tulips, Daffodils and Iris ; Wall-flowers of many 
shades, Forget-me-nots, Sweet-rockets, Sweet-williams and 
stately Campanulas, that prefer to bloom early in the year, 
and which are often in too great a hurry to make way for 
their more numerous summer sisters. 

Effective colour arrangement is at the moment the chief 
feature of modern gardening, and the results attained here 
are most successful and original. The number of plants that 
are raised annually from seeds, or any other methods of pro- 
pagation, total 80,000, and include all subjects that are of a 
lasting and effective nature. Many combinations of widely 
differing plants are used in the smaller beds and borders of 
the flower garden, while brilliant effects are obtained by 
massing a single species of plant in one border in other 
places. Roses occupy much space, and while room is found 
for many of the latest introductions into Roseland, old-time 
Roses such as the Pink Monthly and many varieties of the 
Noisette section are largely grown. Among the Roses, 
Hybrid Teas are most freely planted, and the most beautiful 
and fragrant sorts are selected, as La France, Caroline Testout, 
Richmond, Madame Abel Chatenay, Liberty, The Lion 



ii6 



ROYAL GARDENS 



Rose and many more. Thousands of Violas are planted to 
clothe the ground among the Roses. Varieties are chosen 
that do their duty well on a soil unkindly to this plant. 

Sweet-scented Stocks are given an extensive border to 
themselves, over 2000 being planted of varieties of that 
special strain grown in East Lothian. One of the most 
beautiful of bedding plants is the Antirrhinum. So much 
has been done to improve this plant that now every possible 
shade of colour (except blue) is available. At Claremont 
they are much used. Massed by the thousand, they form 
one of the chief features of the bedding arrangements. 
Pentstemons, too, are planted in huge borders. Lovely 
groups of the much-esteemed Crimson Gem and Southgate 
Gem are here. Pink colours are represented by a lovely 
variety called Daydream, and White Giant is most imposing. 
Other flowers of an annual or half-hardy nature — tall Lark- 
spurs, Sweet Peas, Gladioli and Chrysanthemums find a home 
here too. In the flower garden proper, more tender bedding 
plants are used. There you will find tall Heliotrope, Ver- 
benas, Calceolarias, Standard Fuchsias and a host of plants 
that are adapted to this purpose, which do duty outside 
for the summer months, and then are safely housed under 
glass for the winter. 

The opinion may be expressed, however, that the future 
will see the numbers of many of the above-mentioned plants 
lessened in these gardens, as there is rapidly being got 
together a remarkably varied and choice collection of 
herbaceous plants. Several borders are already filled with 
them, and although but recently planted they give a foretaste 
of what they will become when firmly established. Borders 
devoted to hardy plants are so often made too narrow, and 
frequently the plants are grouped without regard to height, 
time of flowering and space necessary to their full develop- 
ment, that the hardy plant border (which ought to be the 
glory of a garden) is sometimes a miserable spectacle offend- 
ing the eye and detracting from the artistic appearance of 
the whole. All these errors have been avoided here. Broad 



THE CENTRE WALK, CLAREMONT, LOOKING NORTH 



CLAREMONT 117 

roomy borders, where such subjects as Delphiniums, Rud- 
beckias and Helianthus have the requisite space allowed to 
show their distinct characterisation in habit, foliage and 
flower. The best of the older border flowers are to be seen 
here, and also the cream of the latest introductions from 
China and other parts of the globe that have within the last 
few years enriched our gardens with so many fine plants. 
Stately groups of Artemisia Lactiflora, Senecio Wilsonianus, 
S. Veitchianus and S. Clivorum (all recently from China) 
mingle with the plants that have been grown for centuries 
in English gardens. Here, too, there are old-fashioned plants 
that are almost forgotten, such as Cedronella Caria — a lovely 
plant too much neglected — Scrophularia variegata — which 
adds a charming note of light-coloured foliage among so 
much greenery, and an old-world Antirrhinum with almost 
white leaves and pink flowers. Our native Salvia Praetensis 
and Echium vulgare give two shades of uncommon purple, 
while Salvia patens and Anchusas give the so much desired 
tone of blue to the border. Malvaceous plants form a rich 
collection and provide that pink shade which is regrettably 
scarce among perennial plants. This order includes Sidalceas 
in several species and varieties, the uncommon Malva Albia, 
a choice plant called Malva Alcea Fastigiata and several 
species of Anoda not often found in gardens. Several un- 
common members of the Nat. Ord. Compositas are grow- 
ing freely. These include Perezia multiflora (an uncommon 
plant from Brazil), Haplocarpa Scaposa, Plagius grandiflorus, 
and a choice selection of white Marguerites now so popular. 
Various species of Meconopsis are among the elite of the hardy 
plant border, and will add to the beauty and interest of what 
is already a fine collection. Phloxes and Michaelmas Daisies 
are provided with quarters for themselves, and of both there is 
a gathering of all the best home and Continental varieties. 

The garden walls are not wholly given over to fruit 
trees, but are still clothed with what are, no doubt, some of 
the original plants put in at the time of their erection. 
Wistarias, Magnolias and other climbers, of great size and 



ii8 ROYAL GARDENS 

age, cover many feet run of space. And in the gardens are 
many rare shrubs, of which the history is well known to 
those interested in such things. There are several Wistarias 
of great size, of which one specimen covers a run of 50 feet 
of a high wall. An uncommon climber is Alaternus 
variegata. This is a perfect specimen, covering several yards 
of wall space. Its white variegation is most pleasing. The 
lovely Spirea prunifolia fl. pi. is in full flower here in April. 
There are also some fine examples of Magnolias, Deutzias, 
Kerrias and many others, grown as wall plants. Many rare 
shrubs growing in various corners of the garden surprise 
beholders by their size. Most people are acquainted with 
them only as pot-grown plants. 

Extensive ranges of glass structures are required to bring 
forward the vast number of plants wanted for the garden. 
And at whichever season of the year they may be visited 
they always present a well-filled and well-ordered appearance. 
Several spacious vineries and peach-houses provide splendid 
crops of these fruits and are also used for housing the plants 
which will be planted out in the flower gardens later. At 
present a gradual renewal of the vines is in progress, and the 
young plants give great promise. Smaller houses are used 
for Melons, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, &c. 

A collection of Malmaison Carnations is one of the chief 
interests of the indoor gardening. The plants seem to enjoy 
the pure atmosphere of this delightful neighbourhood, for 
they are in rude health. Besides the fine old pink Mal- 
maison, all the best of the newer varieties are grown. 
Special favourites are The Colonel, Albion, Calypso, Duchess 
of Westminster and Horace Hutchinson. Carnations of all 
classes indeed are held in regard at Claremont, and several 
thousands are grown in the open garden. A good selection 
of all the more select greenhouse plants are grown. And the 
conservatory is kept gay at all seasons with flowering plants. 
Frames and pits in long ranges provide space for the raising 
and propagation of many subjects, and for growing winter 
salads, violets, &c. 



EARLY CHRYSANTHEMUMS, CLAREMONT 



I 



I 



CLAREMONT 119 

There are commodious potting and tool houses, and new 
quarters for the gardening staff are about to be built. 

It is really, however, its trees that give Claremont such 
great distinction and so unique a place among the residential 
estates of the British Isles. Writing lately, Mr. W. J. Bean, 
of the Royal Gardens, Kew, said, " It is a considerable 
distinction for a garden to possess the finest specimen in the 
kingdom of even one kind of tree, but Claremont has within 
its boundaries four or five for which we believe precedence 
may be claimed over all others of the same species in the 
British Isles." The trees referred to are Gymnocladus 
Canadensis (Kentucky Coffee Tree), which is 60 feet in height 
and still in vigorous health. And another unmatched speci- 
men is Sassafras officinale, 50 feet high. One of the rarest 
trees in Britain is Magnolia macrophylla, and no known 
specimen comes anywhere near the dimensions of the tree 
at Claremont, which is 45 feet in height. The leaves of this 
are of great size, and it presents a striking picture beside the 
more common trees surrounding it. The specimen here of 
Sequoia sempervirens is a model of perfect health and vigour, 
and is a particularly shapely and handsome tree, over 100 feet 
in height and 1 3 feet i o inches in girth. The above-mentioned 
four trees are unrivalled in this country. They are carefully 
watched and tended, and it is hoped that they will long stand 
the stress and strain of storm and tempest. For to the 
arboriculturist they are valuable and ancient monuments. 
From the casual observer the specimen of Pterocarya Caucasica 
will perhaps call forth the most admiration. Its trunk is 
quite short, the lowest branches being only a few feet from 
the ground. Its spread is immense, and the long fernlike 
leaves mark it out as a conspicuous object of grace and beauty. 
A huge specimen of the Cork Oak (Quercus Suber) is another 
striking tree, though not in perfect condition. Many other 
rare trees of somewhat lesser age and size are of wide repute — 
Magnolia acuminata, several fine Cedars, Pinus muricataSo feet 
in height, a magnificent sample of Cryptomeria japonica, and 
a perfect specimen of Cunninghamia sinensis. 



1 20 



ROYAL GARDENS 



The prevailing timber is Beech, and the estate abounds 
with grand specimens. Many growing in low valleys are of 
gigantic proportions. Scotch Firs raise their cap-like heads 
here and there, and add to the variety of a very interesting 
collection. 

The pleasure grounds are also enriched by an assortment 
of shrubs, both deciduous and evergreen, among which may 
be mentioned Bamboos, Rhododendrons, Azaleas and many 
species of Spiraeas, Junipers, Hollies, &c. Perched on high 
ground overlooking the lake there is beautiful tea-house, 
from which the view is lovely. A small flower garden 
has been laid out here and planted with herbs and sweet- 
smelling plants like Lavender, Thyme, Balm and many 
others. Beneath lies the lake with boats and boathouse 
at the further end. Here developments are in progress and 
the margins are being planted with Japanese Iris, Primulas 
and other moisture-loving plants. 

All over the policies one is reminded of the history of 
this estate by the name-plates placed at the foot of many trees 
proclaiming them to have been planted by notable personages 
to commemorate national or family events. Many members 
of the Royal Family have planted trees at Claremont, includ- 
ing the late Queen Victoria, who in many other ways, also, 
showed her interest in the place. 



CHAPTER X 



SANDRINGHAM 

The history of Sandringham as a royal demesne begins no 
further back than 1861. In that year the estate was bought 
from the Hon. C. Spencer Cowper for His late Majesty, then 
Prince of Wales. At the time of purchase it contained rather 
less than eight thousand acres, but several additions having 
been made since, its present area is about fourteen thousand. 
Five parishes and parts of three others are included in its 
boundaries. It is situated in the north-west corner of the 
county of Norfolk, near the coast of the Wash, about half- 
way between King's Lynn and Hunstanton. The mansion is 
a little over two miles east of Wolferton station, and the same 
distance south of that at Dersingham. In addition to many 
fertile farms and pretty villages the domain embraces wild 
tracts of heathland and extensive pine and fir woods. These 
features have led to a description of it as " part of Scotland 
brought south of the Tweed," and they also help to account 
for Sandringham having the reputation of being one of the 
very best shooting estates in England. 

The park, which is about three hundred acres in extent, 
contains many large and ancient oaks among numerous fine 
specimens of other trees. It is well stocked with deer, whose 
graceful forms and movements under the gnarled branches 
of the old trees enliven a delightful scene. In the park is 
Sandringham Church, which contains many memorials of 
King Edward's affection for the place, and many mementoes 
of other members of the Royal Family. In surface the land 
is decidedly undulating, and several little streams have broad- 
ened out into pools and small lakes in its valleys. From all 



122 



ROYAL GARDENS 



these natural advantages it will be seen that when, from time 
to time, parts of the park have been enclosed and added to 
the garden, they have presented opportunities for very varied 
treatment, and have especially encouraged the formation of 
extraordinarily successful examples of wild, water and bog 
gardening. 

About two years after Sandringham became the private 
property of the Prince of Wales, his marriage took place. 
This naturally involved a large increase in his establishment, 
and the old house was found to be too small, and in other 
ways unsuitable for a royal residence. It was, therefore, 
taken down and the present mansion, from designs by Mr. 
Humbert, was built. It was completed in 1870, but several 
additions and alterations have been made since that time. 
The style of architecture is Elizabethan, modified by modern 
requirements. The general impression suggested is one of 
stately splendour, combined with ornate, but in no sense 
ostentatious, elegance. The mansion might be described as a 
typical modern English country-house on a very large scale. 
In its size and appointments it is so magnificent, its outline 
is so varied by gables, steep roofs, cupolas and well-designed 
chimneys, the newness of its appearance has been so altered 
by time and by the growth of many creepers, that the effect 
of the whole is thoroughly pleasing, and is equally admirable 
both from the luxuriously comfortable and artistic points 
of view. 

The main entrance to the pleasure grounds is from the 
north, and is guarded by the famous ' Norwich ' gates, which 
are superb examples of modern work in wrought iron. After 
being shown at the great International Exhibition of 1862, 
they were presented by the county to the Prince of Wales, 
as a wedding present and as a mark of the pleasure his choosing 
Norfolk for his private residence gave to its people. From 
these splendid gates there used to be an avenue of limes all 
the way to the house, but more than half the trees were 
blown down some years ago. At the time this happened it 
was considered a great misfortune, but it is probable that the 



THE LAKE IN THE WEST GARDEN, SANDRINGHAM 



SANDRINGHAM 123 

clearing of the grounds to the north of the house has really- 
been an improvement. They appear more spacious and 
uniform than before, and the house consequently stands 
better and has a more stately aspect. And being partly 
hidden by foliage at the south-west and south-east corners, 
it still looks comfortably settled among its beautiful sur- 
roundings. 

There are two main divisions in the Sandringham Gardens. 
That containing the house itself is known as the West 
Garden. It includes a most beautiful lake, the promontories 
and higher banks of which are boldly planted with many fine 
trees. Hundreds of choicest water-lilies float upon its surface. 
Aquatic plants of almost every kind fringe its margin. 
Clumps of bulrushes, loosestrife, saxifrage, lobelia cardinalis, 
bamboos and grasses of numberless varieties, have been 
planted with an artistic negligence which has encouraged 
nature to help, and has nowhere defied her teaching. A 
natural outcrop of stone in places round the lake has been 
improved and added to with careful art. Rock gardens have 
been formed ; in whose crevices and ' pockets ' innumerable 
varieties of the fascinating and often minute plants that enjoy 
such positions, live and thrive and plead for observation of 
their almost microscopic beauty. A stream running in a 
series of tiny cascades and pools through a most exquisite 
dell, falls into the lake over moss-grown rocks. From every 
side views across the water are very lovely. They embrace 
peeps of lawn with splendid specimen trees, terraces, flower 
borders and glimpses of the creeper-clad mansion between 
feathery foliage of many a birch and willow. 

The western fa9ade of the house faces a long terrace- 
walk, with grass banks sloping down to a formal and stately 
parterre, whose beds are, in summer, filled with a striking 
arrangement of scarlet and white flowers. The formality of 
its straight and horizontal lines is corrected by upright trees 
of golden holly and yew. A handsome bronze fountain in a 
circular basin furnishes the centre. Still further west a fine 
expanse of sunny lawn, fringed with an irregular belt of 



ROYAL GARDENS 



very varied foliage, and ornamented with splendid cedars and 
other shade-giving trees, extends towards the park. As it 
nears the sunk fence bounding the garden it is broken up 
into several turfy glades with masses of woodland between. 
Around groups of beautiful trees many flowering shrubs and 
evergreens are growing, and between sombre foliage of trees 
and smooth velvet of lawns, following in bold curves the 
general shape of the woodlands, are wide mixed borders of 
countless gay and brilliant flowers. It would be difficult to 
speak in over-high terms of this method of gardening. The 
flowers in the foreground supply a joyous contrast to the trees 
and shrubs behind, and they, in their turn, provide a perfect 
protection and background for the myriad colours of their 
delicate sisters. And so great is the size of the garden that 
from these flower-fringed glades many peeps of exquisite 
distance, with here and there glimpses of Sandringham House 
itself, complete a series of pictures whose elegance and charm 
does not depend on the landscape beyond the boundaries, but 
is none the less of unsurpassable interest and beauty. 

Near the north-east corner of the great garden, a very fine 
group of Scotch firs standing on a slight eminence forms a 
striking feature. And a most happy thought has led to the 
planting of the ground beneath them with Erica carnea and 
other heaths. Along the extreme garden boundary in this, 
as in almost every other direction, there is a beautiful belt 
of woodland. These have suggested opportunities for wild 
gardening in many places, and no pains have been spared to 
make the result answer to the promise. All through the 
wilder outskirting glades innumerable bulbous plants have 
been introduced, and at their flowering season the eff^ect must 
be almost incredibly beautiful. 

The West Garden is separated from the eastern by a public 
road. In the boundary wall of the former a small oaken 
postern door opens to the highway ; across which, in a 
curved shrub-bordered recess, a very handsome iron gate 
admits to the latter. Here are the kitchen and fruit gardens, 
and a truly magnificent range of glass-houses. Immediately 



GLADE OFF THE LAWN, SANDRINGHAM 



SANDRINGHAM 125 

within the gate, a pergola, on the largest scale consistent with 
ability to entice climbing plants to clothe it, has been con- 
structed within the last five or six years. It is built on what 
is known as the ' cube system.' That is to say, its height, 
breadth and the distance from pillar to pillar lengthwise, are 
all equal. The great pergola is not only satisfying because 
its scale is entirely suitable to the grandeur of its surround- 
ings, but is also extremely dignified and imposing in itself. 
Half-way in its length it widens out on both sides into a 
large bay, in each of which are semicircular marble seats 
set on pavements of smooth, variously coloured slabs of 
the same stone. In the centre of the pergola between the 
seats, a beautifully carved antique marble vase stands on a 
pedestal of two steps. One of the most interesting features 
of this grand pergola is the method in which it is paved. 
For this purpose blocks of rough local sandstone, in very 
irregular shapes and sizes, have been used. They have been 
laid quite unevenly, and where they are not liable to be 
much trodden upon, minute mosses and tiny rock-plants grow 
in the interstices. The view beneath hanging masses and 
branchlets of clematis and rose clothing the rough-hewn oak 
beams which form the pergola's roof is supremely lovely. 
For it includes the whole length of a magnificent double 
border filled almost to overflowing with numberless flowers of 
the very choicest varieties. This border is more than three 
hundred yards long, on both sides of a wide walk which 
extends from end to end of the kitchen garden. In the 
middle, where cross paths meet, there is a circular marble 
fountain. And round it are arches laden with roses. At the 
back of the borders all along, are more arches, or half-hoops, 
of iron with apple-trees trained upon them. But the great 
beauty of the immense borders, before everything else, is the 
marvellous collection of flowers they contain. 

On both sides of the pergola, north and south, there are 
lovely flower gardens. Lawns, arbours, long beds of stocks, 
asters, antirrhinums and countless other flowers, a lofty grace- 
ful sundial, and a low terrace, and everywhere roses — on 



ROYAL GARDENS 



pillars, chains and arches, as bushes, as weeping-standards, 
and on the boundary walls — make these two little divisions 
of the garden delicious beyond compare. 

At the south-east corner of the kitchen garden. Queen 
Alexandra's dairy calls for a word of special comment. In a 
small enclosure stands a pretty little cottage building, and 
around it are displayed many noteworthy examples of skilful 
topiary-work. Shady trees and flower-bedecked lawns com- 
plete a charming and picturesque scene. 

Space forbids more than a mere allusion to many other 
features of this wonderful garden. Besides those already 
mentioned are rose gardens, arbours, alleys, more examples of 
bog and water gardens, a maze, collections of rare shrubs, 
a vast number of special trees planted by royal and other 
notable personages, interesting objects (such as a Chinese 
temple or joss-house), to say nothing of the splendid conserva- 
tories and all their gorgeous and beautiful inmates. These last 
alone would require a whole volume to enumerate and de- 
scribe in anything like completeness. Suffice it to say, the 
gardens at Sandringham contain examples of every kind of 
gardening practice. And not, as in many places, are one or 
two things made specialities of, but in everything the best is 
grown, and in the best manner cultivated. In all the beauties 
and magnificence of the gardens the late King took, and 
Queen Alexandra still takes, the greatest interest. Through 
their beneficence the gardens have long been open to the 
public, on Wednesday, in every week when no members of 
the Royal Family are in residence. 

It is unnecessary to say that the grounds are perfectly 
kept, or that they are laid out and cultivated with the most 
consummate art — that art which conceals artifice. But 
beyond all this, the result here shows that the work is done 
in a spirit of enthusiasm and love for actual growing plants 
and trees and flowers, with a depth of knowledge, a strong 
artistic feeling for harmonies and contrasts of colour, and a 
reverence for and obedience to the laws of nature, which 
together have placed the Sandringham Gardens among the 
very finest in the world. 



SANDRINGHAM 



127 



SANDRINGHAM GARDENS AND GROUNDS 

By Mr. THOMAS H. COOK, Head Gardener 

Sandringham, the Norfolk home of His late Majesty- 
King Edward VII. and Queen Alexandra, will long bear the 
impress of the great King's love for his country home and the 
interest he took in the development of an obscure estate into 
one of world-wide fame. It was purchased, in 1861, by 
Lord Palmerston, then Prime Minister, for the Prince Consort 
as a shooting-box for his son, Edward Prince of Wales. Two 
years later he, with his lovely and gracious Princess, took up 
residence here. His Royal Highness, as Prince and King the 
greatest patron horticulture ever had, immediately set to work 
to beautify and enlarge the grounds. Sheep and cattle at that 
time grazed upon what are now trim lawns and flower gardens. 
The house too, at this period, was practically rebuilt and made 
fit for a royal residence. And much has httn done in more 
recent years to still further adapt it to modern requirements. 

The walls of the mansion are well clothed with climbing 
plants. Conspicuous in the early autumn by reason of its 
intense colouring (doubtless owing to the sandy subsoil) is 
Ampelopsis Veitchii on a part of the west front. Noteworthy, 
too, are some fine plants of Euonymus radicans variegata 
which completely cover a large portion of the wall to a height 
of 27 feet and encircle a sundial, let into the masonry, which 
bears the following inscription : 

" Let others tell of storm and showers, 
I'll only count your sunny hours." 

A peculiarity of this Euonymus is its creeping propensity 
when planted against a wall compared with its neat shrubby 
growth in an open border. Lonicera fragrantissima and 
Chimonanthus fragrans (Winter Sweet) find a congenial home 
here, and their scented Jblossoms are welcomed as every 
January comes round. Roses and Jasmines mingle pleasantly 
together, and a shrub not often seen as a wall plant is 



128 



ROYAL GARDENS 



Mahonia aquifolium, which fills its allotted space with an 
effect surpassed by very few evergreens. The north and east 
walls are covered with Ivies and Crataegus Pyracantha. The 
latter here, as in all parts of Norfolk, grows luxuriantly and 
berries freely, forming a striking picture in early winter ; 
but upon the first approach of cold weather, unless protected, 
its red berries are eagerly eaten by birds. 

West Front Flower Garden. — West of the house and 
immediately in front is situated a parterre, or formal design 
of variously shaped beds. The centres of the larger ones 
are occupied by good — though rather trim — conical speci- 
mens of Golden Hollies, which are surrounded by Rhodo- 
dendrons, thus forming backgrounds for the numerous 
bedding plants employed both in summer and winter effects. 
At the latter season Wallflowers, Pansies, Polyanthus and 
Forget-me-nots predominate, among which, in the smaller 
beds, trim Golden Yews are planted at intervals. A series 
of borders on the terrace, close under the windows of the 
house, are filled with quantities of Tulips, Hyacinths and 
Narcissi massed in various colours. These being followed 
in summer by Heliotrope filling whole beds — with tall 
standards of the same to relieve the flatness — Calceolaria 
amplexicaulis, sweet-scented Geraniums, Tobacco plants, 
Humea elegans and other familiar sweet-smelling flowers, 
their fragrance is wafted into the house through the open 
windows. Huge bushes of Lavender in handsome terra-cotta 
pots stand just outside the drawing-room. They are favourite 
plants of Queen Alexandra, and are planted in many other 
positions throughout the gardens. During the summer 
months two large Myrtles, grown in tubs half-buried in 
the grass here, are objects of especial interest. They were 
raised from small pieces of the Myrtle used in Queen 
Alexandra's wedding bouquet. 

Pansy Garden. — Towards the south end of the terrace 
another series of small beds are reminiscent of a style of 



PART OF THE ROCK GARDEN BY THE UPPER LAKE, 

SANDRINGHAM 



SANDRINGHAM 129 

flower-gardening seldom practised nowadays. The Pansy 
Garden, so-called from its being constantly planted with 
various types and colours of that flower, is a sunk garden 
in the form of a half-circular scroll of Box-edged beds on a 
groundwork of light-coloured gravel. In the centre, an old 
Italian well-head — with bucket suspended from ornamental 
ironwork — is placed. In the well-head itself there is a fine 
specimen of the rose Alista Stella Gray. Being allowed to 
grow with little restriction it has assumed large proportions, 
and is a beautiful object when bearing, as it does, many 
hundreds of its lovely flowers at the same time. 

Herbaceous Borders. — Among the most striking features 
in the garden are the extensive Herbaceous and mixed 
flower borders which may be seen in almost all directions 
from the west-front windows. The first of these, at the 
south end of the terrace and in line with the house, was 
designed by Queen Alexandra. It was the forerunner of 
many others that have been added since. There are now 
seven of these borders, in various parts of the grounds, 
having a total frontage of 530 yards, and varying in width 
from 9 to 33 feet. The secret of success in Herbaceous 
border gardening, speaking generally, is deep cultivation, a 
rich soil, and replanting about every three years. It is also 
essential to have a background, preferably of evergreens. 
Not necessarily a hedge ; for one with a more uneven 
outline with which the various contours of the flowers can 
more readily blend is often better. Where extent and width 
of border permits, bold grouping of colours in sequence, 
from white to blue in the distance, is very effective ; or, as 
is more frequently adopted at Sandringham, colour contrasts 
formed by groups of plants in various sizes. Plants of tall 
growth are usually placed at the back of the borders ; but 
this is not rigidly adhered to, and they are often brought 
well forward to produce a more or less undulating effect. 
One border has a background of Austrian Pines. In it 
roses, on tall rustic oak posts, many of them 20 feet high, 

R 



130 ROYAL GARDENS 

are grown. They are dispersed through the border — 
between middle and back — add much variety, and enhance 
the beauty of the display. The Roses being allowed to grow 
freely, and in no sense formally trained or much tied in, 
produce an effect at flowering time which is truly charming. 
American Pillar, Dorothy Perkins and its White sport, 
Crimson Rambler, Tausendschon, Hiawatha and Flower of 
Fairfield are among the varieties favoured. 

An extensive range of plants is employed in the 
borders. Among them are Liliums : auratum, L. Marta- 
gon, L. croceum, L. excelsum, L. speciosum roseum and alba, 
and L. tigrinum splendens ; Michaelmas Daisies, of which 
the variety Climax is an acquisition ; Helianthus multi- 
florus, H. Tomentosus, H. rigidus Miss Mellish and the 
variety sparsifolia ; Gypsophila paniculata and the double 
flowering form ; Galega Hartlandii ; Erigeron speciosus 
grandiflorus, E, Quakeress ; Anchusa of later introductions ; 
Incarvillea grandiflora ; Dahlias of all types ; Tritomas, 
Montbretias, Eremurus and others too numerous to men- 
tion. There is also here a yellow border composed entirely 
of plants bearing flowers of that colour, such as large groups 
of ten feet high Sunflowers with others less in stature, 
Verbascums, Silphiums, Centaureas, Rudbeckias (as R. laci- 
niata and R. Newmanni), Marigolds and Heleniums (of 
which the variety pumilum magnificum is superb). Coreopsis, 
Columbines, Delphinium sulphureum. Antirrhinums and 
X/upinus, with Tropsolum tuberosum and T, Canariensis 
climbing over some rough branches of spruce in the back- 
ground. There are, too, red and white borders where flowers 
of these colours only are seen. They are striking in effect 
and high in favour. Stately Hollyhocks, Madonna Lilies, 
Anemone japonica, Artemisia lactiflora, Achillea Ptarmica 
— The Pearl, Sweet Peas, Galega officinalis alba, Phloxes, 
Pentstemons, Monarda didyma. Lychnis chalcedonica, and 
Geums (single and double red) are the principal plants that 
furnish these borders. 

In no instance are Herbaceous plants alone depended on 



SANDRINGHAM 131 

for the display. Annuals are largely employed, particularly 
in the front of the borders. Bold irregular groups of An- 
tirrhinums, Phlox Drummondii, Scabiosa, Zinnias, Asters, 
Mignonette, East Lothian and Ten-week Stocks, Dimor- 
photheca hybrids, Arctotis and towards the back, tall branch- 
ing Larkspurs, Lavatera rosea, Malopes, Sweet Peas and 
Sunflowers are associated with and in many instances take 
the place of early flowering Herbaceous plants ; the aim 
being to provide as continuous a show of flowers over as 
long a period as possible. The foregoing are raised in heat, 
transplanted into frames and finally planted out in May. 
As it is desired to show no bare ground, close planting 
is resorted to, but with due regard to the full development 
of individual plants. Throughout the borders monotony i& 
avoided by planting groups contrasting in height as well as 
in colour. Early staking, before the plants become knocked 
about by the wind, is done, and always so contrived as to 
prevent the stakes being obtrusive. In a season like the 
summer of 191 1, deep cultivation proved its value; but in 
addition, frequent watering was necessary. This was ap- 
plied by hose-pipe in the evenings, the water being obtained 
from a supply laid on when the borders were made. These 
are a few of the many items observed in providing the satis- 
factory results obtained in Herbaceous and mixed borders at 
Sandringham. 

The Dell. — Water always enhances the beauty of a land- 
scape. At Sandringham there are two lakes as well as 
three ornamental pools and a winding stream, all of which 
add very considerably to its charm. One of the most pic- 
turesque spots here is " The Dell," an exquisite and cool 
retreat where the sound of trickling water, as it enters the 
grounds from the park beyond, may be heard. The little 
stream falls into a shallow pool, the secluded bathing-place of 
numerous feathered songsters with which the surrounding 
woods abound. The banks rise sharply on either side, and a 
narrow path leads down to some stepping-stones dividing the 



132 ROYAL GARDENS 

small pool from another considerably larger. From the latter 
the water flows over a picturesque and rocky cascade into the 
upper lake. One bank of The Dell is clothed entirely with 
Bamboos, and in this sheltered and moist spot they have 
thriven exceedingly and now form a pleasing and distinctive 
feature. Two graceful clumps of Arundinaria nitida are 
beautiful objects close to the water's edge. The opposite 
bank is surmounted by a group of Silver Birch and Copper 
Beech, the branches of which are entwined with stems and 
growths of Traveller's Joy, wild Grape Vine, and long trail- 
ing runners of an old-fashioned, sweet-smelling white Rose. 
These being allowed to ramble freely and intermingle, give 
a very pleasing and natural touch to the scene. Rhododen- 
drons, Azalea mollis, tall Lilacs and Weeping Willows are 
effectively displayed, and the edges of the pools have Sweet 
Briar, Ferns (notable among which are many fine plants of 
Royal and Lady Fern), Nymphsa alba (which flowers freely 
in the larger pool), and Typha latifolia and Cyperus longus 
flourish in the shallow water at the sides. 

Rockwork and Grotto. — One of the finest specimens of 
Pulham's early rockwork may be seen on the bank of the 
upper lake nearest the house. The principal portion is a 
Grotto, or Boathouse, skilfully formed with exceedingly large 
boulders of local Car-stone. It is lofty and boldly conceived, 
the entrance from either land or water being partially 
screened by trailing Ivy and long pendulous growths of 
Berberis stenophylla. Leading up to the Grotto on both 
sides is more rockwork of a bold and massive character but 
of more modern construction ; and on the opposite bank of 
the lake a rockery has been made with a view to affbrding a 
congenial home for a variety of Alpine plants. Here they 
grow and display their charms within reach of close inspection, 
for narrow pathways give easy access to every part. Aubretia 
deltoidea with its hybrids Dr. Mules, grasca, Moerheimii 
and Prichard's Ai all grow and flower in masses, as also do 
many varieties of Alyssums, Saxifragas, Dianthus, Lithosper- 



A CORNER OF THE LAKE, SANDRINGHAM 



SANDRINGHAM 133 

mum prostratum, Gentiana acaulis, G. verna, Primula rosea, 
P. Cashmeriana, Ramondias, Phyteumas, Linarias and Arenaria 
balearica, the last-named literally clothing many a rock with 
its thick carpet-like growth of soft green. The swampy edge 
of the lake below is a suitable home for Calthas — single and 
double, — Iris siberica, I. K^mpferi, Spirsa Davidii, S. Queen 
Alexandra, S. japonica. Primula japonica and other moisture- 
loving subjects. To reach them one has to traverse some 
stepping-stones placed in the shallow water at the lake's edge. 

Upper Lake. — The view from this rockery across the lake 
towards the house and terrace is one of great beauty, especially 
heightened when Birch and Pine trees are mirrored in the 
placid water. Planted on the grass bank opposite are large 
patches of Saxifraga peltata, Iris K^mpferi, I. Germanica, 
tall Pampas grass, New Zealand Flax, Giant Butter-Bur and 
Willow Herb. Beds of scarlet Dogwood and Golden Willows, 
whose bright-coloured bark in the winter months shows to 
advantage against the background of Bamboos. Planted in 
various parts of the lake Nymphasas grow luxuriantly and 
flower with great freedom ; notably the varieties N. Laydekeri 
rosea, N. Marliacea albida, N. M. carnea, N. M. chromatella, 
N. M. rosea and N. Robinsonia. An island with rocky 
edges is planted with double Whins, Broom, Willows and 
numerous Ferns. In spring, Primroses peep through withered 
fronds ; and a low-spreading Hornbeam whose lower branches 
afford a screen to hide many a nest of waterfowl — who find a 
secure home here — dominates one side and dips its leaves into 
the water. 

Old Norwich Gates and Deer Park. — A path round the 
lake having the Rock Garden on its left soon leads to the old 
Norwich gates bearing the date 1724. They were the prin- 
cipal entrance gates when King Edward took possession of 
Sandringham, but were removed to their present position when 
the new ones were erected in 1863. From here an extensive 
view of the Deer Park is obtained. Its many old and gnarled 



134 ROYAL GARDENS 

Oaks, stately Limes and Elms and Chestnut trees afford a wel- 
come shade in summer and shelter in winter to the herds of 
Highland and fallow deer whose home it is. Close by is an 
Oak of massive proportions, measuring 22| feet in girth at 3 feet 
from the ground, and a story is told in connection with it. 
The late Mr. Gladstone made a practice of felling a tree 
wherever he visited. Knowing this, King Edward (then 
Prince of Wales), on an occasion of the great statesman being 
at Sandringham, ordered his axe to be placed against this 
huge tree, and invited him to commence operations. But for 
obvious reasons the ' grand old man ' declined and decided to 
"spare the tree." The overflow from the upper lake passes 
below the drive just within the gates, and enters the lower lake. 
Here there is more fine rockwork and a dripping pool. 
Rambling Roses of the Wichuriana type have recently been 
planted, and in time will hang over and partially drape the 
huge boulders which rise to a considerable height from the 
water below. Ferns are planted lower down in crevices and 
specially prepared pockets, a long ledge of Adiantum pedatum 
being very prominent. Across the lawn from here York 
Cottage can be seen, standing on slightly raised ground and 
overlooking the other end of the lower lake. 

Bog Garden. — On the way to York Cottage passing the 
maze (concealed from view by clumps of Rhododendrons), 
and a little further on, almost hidden by a bank of Bamboos, 
is the Bog Garden. This was the last of the many improve- 
ments His late Majesty commanded, and was intended as a 
surprise for Her Majesty Queen Alexandra. King Edward's 
last week-end was spent at Sandringham, and the Bog Garden 
being then under formation, it came specially under His 
Majesty's notice for consideration of the final plans. There 
was previously here a low swampy piece of ground which 
has been converted into a small lake. It is fed by a stream 
running through the easterly part of the grounds. The soil 
taken out was thrown up into mounds and planted with 
Bamboos, Rhododendrons, Pampas grass, Crambe cordifolia, 



SANDRINGHAM 135 

Rheum atro purpureum dissectum, R. palmatum, Golden 
Rod, &c. Three rustic bridges span the stream and narrow 
part of the small lake. On them ramble Honeysuckle, 
Wistaria, Polygonum Baldschuanicum and Clematis montana. 
The sides of the pool have groups of the following plants : 
Alisma plantago, Sagittaria japonica plena, Butomus um- 
bellatus, Caltha polypetala and various Typhas whose russety 
foliage when decaying in winter makes pleasant colour con- 
trasts with Dogwood and Willows also largely planted here. 
Near the water's edge groups of Iris Ksmpferi gladden the 
eye with their gorgeous flowers of many hues in summer time. 
Senecio clivorum, S. Veitchii, S. pulcher, variously tinted 
Spirseas, Lysimachias,Bog Myrtle andFunkias also give delight. 
While for foliage effects Gunnera manicata, Polygonums, Eu- 
lalias, Elymums and Petasites fragrans are very striking. Juni- 
perus sabina forms a groundwork for some good-sized plants of 
Japanese Acers, the dark-green undergrowth making a telling 
foil to the delicate colouring of the lighter foliage in spring 
and autumn. Large quantities of bulbs are planted in the 
grass. They comprise Narcissi in variety, Chionodoxa, Scillas, 
Snowdrops, Aconites, Dog's-tooth Violets, &c. &c., and pro- 
vide a rich feast of colour during the early spring months. 
Slightly raised grass walks over a foundation of rough rubble 
and cinders, and in some places large flat stepping-stones afford 
a comfortable means of walking here at all seasons. 

T^he Northern Grounds. — The great gale of February 1908 
was the means of completely altering the appearance of the 
northerly part of the grounds. Many fine specimen trees 
were uprooted, and the avenue of old Limes, 70 feet high, was 
levelled to the ground. This disaster necessitated a rearrange- 
ment in this part, and the enclosing of large portions of 
Dersingham Wood and the Deer Park were undertaken. 
The famous Norwich Gates were removed 160 yards further 
away from the house ; the old boundary wall was taken 
down, a new one built and the public road diverted for about 
three-quarters of a mile. 



136 ROYAL GARDENS 

T'he Glade. — An appropriate name given to the site of the 
old road which was filled in and turfed over. Beneath over- 
hanging branches of Elms and Scotch firs on both sides, an 
enormous number of Daffodils and other spring flowering 
bulbs are planted in bold irregular patches, and large spaces 
of turf divide the different varieties. A conspicuous feature 
at the east end of The Glade, and of striking beauty during 
February and March, is a bank and a large raised bed of 
Erica carnea. The centre of the bed has a stately group of 
Scotch Pines, below which double flowering Gorse forms an 
appropriate setting to the lovely Heath. The extent of bank 
and bed may be realised when it is stated that no fewer than 
36,000 plants of the Erica were required. 

Part of the ground enclosed from Dersingham Wood was 
planted with a choice selection of flowering trees and shrubs 
arranged on both sides of a winding walk which leads 
completely round the new addition. Here groups of standard 
flowering and ornamental foliaged trees are interspersed with 
dwarf evergreen and deciduous shrubs. The latter form 
groundwork and provide a fine contrast to the colouring in 
flowers and foliage of the others. The following are a few of 
the trees and shrubs thus planted : Amelanchier botryapium, 
Arbutus Andrachne, A. Unedo, many varieties of Berberis, 
Betula Ermannii, Buddleia variabilis Veitchii, B. v. magnifica, 
B. globosa, Calycanthus floridus, Cerasus J. H. Veitch, C. 
padus, Cercidiphyllum japonicum, Cercis Siliquastrum, Coton- 
easter frigida, Cydonia japonica, C. j. atropurpurea, C. j. 
Simonii, Cytisus and Cistus in variety, Deutzias, Daphnes, 
Forsythia suspensa, F. viridissima, Koelreuteria paniculata, 
Olearia Haastii, O. Gunni, Prunus mume, P. triloba, Pyrus 
atrosanguinea, P. Scheideckerii, Rubus biflorus, numerous 
varieties of Spirsas, Veronicas and Weigelas. These and 
others too numerous to mention supply a never-failing source 
of interest at all seasons of the year. 

T^he Wild Garden and Collection of Conifers. — To shut out 
the new wall, specimen Austrian and Douglas Pines were 



SANDRINGHAM 137 

planted. They have already attained their object, being 
assisted by colonies of Yellow Broom which sprang up in 
the newly trenched ground from seeds which must have 
lain dormant there for years. Part of the grounds hereabout 
is treated as a wild garden, where Daffodils and Bluebells 
push through decaying fronds of common bracken fern, and 
where Rosa-rugosa, Penzance and Sweet Briars, Pampas grass, 
Willow-herb, Verbascums and Foxgloves grow freely in the 
rough grass. One side of The Glade has been devoted to 
a collection of conifers. Picea Orientalis, Abies grandis, 
Cupressus Nootkatensis, Pinus excelsa, P. Strobus, P. Cembra, 
Cedrus Atlantica and C. Deodara are some of the trees planted. 
They are all growing vigorously. Pinus montana has been 
employed as a groundwork, among which the brown stems 
of Japanese Wineberry show up warmly in winter, while the 
silvery undersides of its foliage, stirred by a breeze, are 
equally attractive in summer. Vitis coignetis and V. 
purpurea ramble over some Yew trees near by, and their 
richly coloured foliage in autumn makes a fine contrast to 
the dark sombre green of the trees they cling to. A large 
group of upright growing Libocedrus decurrens occupies a 
prominent raised position and has, as an undergrowth, a 
mass of the graceful Berberis Stenophylla. 

Church Walk and Memorial Threes. — Another interesting 
feature of the West Garden is the Church Walk with its 
avenue of Scotch Firs making a fine frame to a beautiful view 
of the Deer Park and Church beyond. On the lawn near by 
many notable memorial trees are placed. Tablets by the side 
of each tell when and by whom it was planted. Taking 
them as they come ; a perfect specimen of Abies pungens 
glauca, twenty-nine feet high, was planted in 1887 by H.R.H. 
the Duke of Sparta, and another equally good by H.M. the 
King of the Hellenes in the same year. Two specimens of 
Fagus Sylvatica planted by T.R.H. the Prince and Princess of 
Wales in 1 872, are now fifty feet high. Quercus cerris planted 
by H.R.H. the Duchess of Albany in 1887 ; Quercus robur 

s 



138 ROYAL GARDENS 

by H.M. the King of the Belgians in 1887 ; Abies Alberti- 
ana by H.R.H. Princess Dagmar of Denmark in 1867 ; Abies 
pungens glauca and Fagus purpurea by T.M, the King and 
Queen of Denmark in 1893; Quercus robur by H.I.M. 
the Empress Dowager Frederick of Germany and Queen of 
Prussia in 1889 ; Fagus purpurea by H.R.H. Prince Charles 
of Denmark in 1895 ; Abies Nordmanniana by H.R.H. the 
Duchess of York in 1894, are some among many others. On 
the lawn to the east of the house a circle of Oaks called the 
Royal Circle has been planted. It was first commenced 
with an Oak planted by H.M. Queen Victoria in 1889, now 
thirty-nine feet high. This was followed by one planted by 
H.M. the Emperor of Germany in 1902 ; one by H.M. the 
King of Portugal also in 1902 ; one by H.M. Queen Amelie 
of Portugal in 1907 ; one each by H.M. the King and H.M. 
the Queen of Spain in 1907 ; and one each by H.M. King 
Edward VII., H.M. Queen Alexandra and the Empress 
Marie Feodorovna in 1908, complete a group whose interest 
is quite unequalled. 

'The Pergola leading to the Kitchen Gardens. — Leaving the 
Royal Circle on the east lawn, a narrow doorway in the 
wall leads across the road to the Kitchen Gardens, which 
contain the plant and fruit houses. The massive and highly 
ornamental wrought-iron entrance gates were a present to 
His late Majesty and Queen Alexandra from Their Majesties 
the King and Queen. They open into the Pergola which 
was erected in 1905. It is of substantial build and magni- 
ficent proportions; is 70 yards long and 15 feet high and 
wide, the same distance separating the pillars. The square 
columns are built of small red bricks and taper slightly 
upwards. Heavy oak beams run lengthways from pillar to 
pillar, and similar pieces cross from side to side overhead. 
Squares are thus formed, which have diagonal beams inter- 
secting in the middle of each. The beams are supported on 
three sides of the pillars with bracket pieces of stout rough- 
hewn oak. Half-way along the Pergola an octagonal double 



THE PERGOLA, SANDRINGHAM 



♦ 



SANDRINGHAM 139 

bay is formed ; in the centre of which, raised on two stone 
steps, a quaint ItaHan well-head of the seventeenth century is 
placed, and, on either side of this, two magnificent white 
marble seats, designed by Sir L. Alma Tadema, occupy the 
recesses of the large octagon. The pathway is laid with flat, 
roughly dressed pieces of Car-stone. Spaces between the 
stones (except in the centre) are planted with dwarf flower- 
ing plants, such as Thymes, Ajuga reptans, Allyssums, 
Antennarias, Arenaria balearica, Aubretias, Dianthus alpinus, 
D. deltoides, D. d. albus, Iceland Poppies, Thrift, Violets 
and Saxifragas. Two lo-feet borders on the outer sides of 
the Pergola are planted thickly with Lavender and with 
climbing Roses on rustic oak posts at intervals, the whole 
being enclosed in a low hedge of Golden Yew. The Pergola 
is now completely clothed with a variety of climbing plants 
which are allowed to ramble freely and hang in festoons 
from the beams above. Polygonum Baldschuanicum, 
Lonicera fragrantissima, and the sweet-smelling early and 
late Dutch varieties of Honeysuckle, Periploca grsca, Aris- 
tolochia Sipho, Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles, Clematis 
montana, C. m, rubens, C. paniculata, C. Jackmani and 
Henryi, Vitis coignetis, V. purpurea and climbing roses 
such as Dorothy Perkins, American Pillar, Longworth 
Rambler and climbing Caroline Testout are most of the 
plants used for this purpose. 

The Pergola divides a flower garden, at one end of which 
the head gardener's house is situated. This garden contains 
a series of variously shaped beds cut out in the grass, the 
centre of the larger ones having climbing Roses on poles, 
while many long-stemmed weeping standards of Dorothy 
Perkins and Hiawatha are planted and present pictures of 
great beauty during their flowering period. East Lothian 
Stocks, Larkspurs and other fragrant free-flowering annuals 
and biennials are used, and sweet little Alyssum minimum 
(of which large numbers are planted) is not forgotten. A 
Rose border with an irregular edging of variously coloured 
Dianthus, having the Kitchen Garden wall (covered with 



I40 ROYAL GARDENS 

creepers) behind it, runs the full length of the east side of 
the flower garden. It is well protected, too, from north and 
west winds by a plantation of tall Austrian Pines, with a 
Holly hedge and a wide border of flowering trees, shrubs and 
low evergreens in front of them. 

The Kitchen Garden (some i6 acres in extent) is divided 
by a wide central walk 310 yards long and 12 feet wide, 
with broad Herbaceous and mixed flower borders on both 
sides, which from early spring to November present an 
endless variety of hardy flowering plants. The edging to 
these borders is of Staffordshire brick, which is hidden in 
summer by low-growing Alpines and bright annuals breaking 
the hardness of straight edges and extending over the path- 
way. For background there is a high fence of Cordon 
Apple trees, with iron arches (set lengthways) also covered 
with trained Apples. These present a beautiful sight in 
blossom time, and again when hung with rosy or golden 
fruit. The central walk is bisected by another running 
north and south, with Rose borders on either side, and high 
arched fences of climbing Roses behind. Where these walks 
cross in the centre of the garden there is a beautiful large 
fountain and circular basin in red marble. It is surrounded 
some 14 feet away with Rose-covered arches. At the east 
end of the central walk two borders of Tritomas and 
Michaelmas Daisies are a pleasing feature ; and in the wall 
beyond (leading to a pink Hermosa Rose walk), is a beautiful 
wrought-iron gilded gate, the design of which is a grape vine 
bearing fruit. A high fence, 90 yards long (covered with 
Dorothy Perkins Roses), dividing the Hermosa Rose walk from 
vegetable ground behind, is when in flower one of the most 
admired objects in the garden. By way of contrast, 7-feet 
high standards of crimson Hiawatha have been planted at 
intervals among the Hermosas, and as edging the charming 
little Polyantha Rose — Jessie, is used. 

Dairy Garden. — A favourite resort of H.M. Queen 
Alexandra, where tea is often partaken of by members of the 



THE DOUBLE BORDERS IN THE EAST GARDEN, 
SANDRINGHAM 



SANDRINGHAM 



Royal Family in summer, is the Dairy. On the way to it 
from the mansion along the south side of the Kitchen Garden 
is another much admired feature. This is the Lavender 
Walk, whose plants having grown into veritable hedges, 
present a glorious sight (and the perfume is not less agree- 
able) when the countless spikes of flower appear. The 
Dairy is situated in a pretty little Dutch garden, and is 
cosily enclosed with a dense shrubbery, in which flowering 
trees predominate. Here there is a sunk garden containing 
a number of quaintly clipped Yew and Box trees resembling 
birds, armchairs, snakes on sticks, boats, &c. Flower-beds 
cut out in the grass on the terrace, and others with closely 
trimmed Yew edgings, are very gay in spring when filled 
with many - coloured bulbous flowers. Forget-me-nots, 
double Daisies, Polyanthus, &c., and sweet-smelling Wall- 
flowers occupy the borders immediately round the build- 
ing. Two sundials, one being made from a part of 
old Kew Bridge, stand on the turf at either side of the 
entrance gate. 

Vegetable Gardens and Screens. — To screen the vegetable 
quarters from the main walk along the north side of the 
Kitchen Garden is a Rose fence 300 yards in length, 
having pillars at intervals with hanging chains. The 
pillars have a variety of climbing Roses planted at their feet. 
They include Lady Gay, Tausendschon, Tea Rambler, Eng- 
land's Glory, Mons. Desir Franfois Crousse, Caroline Testout, 
Reine Marie Henriette, Gruss au Teplitz, &c. &c., the fence 
being covered with Aimee Vibert, whose almost evergreen 
character makes it an excellent Rose for the purpose. High 
brick walls all round form admirable shelter for the Kitchen 
Garden, and on them excellent examples of fruit trees are 
trained. These include best varieties of the choicest hardy 
fruits, while large numbers of Apple and Pear trees and fruit 
bushes occupy the central portions of the garden and divide 
its principal plots. Very large quantities of fruit, cut flowers 
and vegetables (forced and in season) are required daily, and 



142 ROYAL GARDENS 

the sometimes despised Kitchen Garden demands here as much 
attention and forethought as any other department. 

Fruit Houses. — There are two principal fruit ranges, one 
200 and the other 50 yards long ; and, in addition, lean-to 
houses (on the south walls of the Kitchen Garden) consist of 
eleven Vineries, five houses in which Peaches and Nectarines 
grow together, one Orchard-house and a Fig-house with five 
connecting porches planted respectively with Cordon Plums, 
American and Indian Grape Vines, Figs and Peaches. One 
compartment contains H.M. Queen Alexandra's collection of 
dwarfed Japanese trees ; one ancient specimen over three 
hundred years old, growing in a handsome blue vase. In 
addition to the foregoing there are two other Fig-houses and a 
house for early pot Vines ; while close upon 5000 pot Straw- 
berries are annually forced. Up-to-date varieties of the 
leading fruits are grown, high quality and good crops being 
commanded and invariably secured. 

Plant-houses. — A handsome block of plant-houses, known 
as the " Persimmon Range," built of teak (and with blinds 
composed of laths of the same wood), occupies an open 
position just behind the long fruit range. A corridor 400 
feet long covers three sides of a square and has four span- 
roofed houses branching from it. These contain three Orchid- 
houses, two large stoves, three Begonia and two Carnation 
houses. The corridor itself is kept continually furnished with 
seasonable flowering plants on the stages. A border running 
entirely round is planted with creepers which cover the 
back wall and hang in a free manner from the roof. The 
same border is also planted with various flowering and orna- 
mental foliage plants, including a group of Tree Ferns which 
H.M. the King brought home from Australia in the Ophir 
in 1 901. Just inside the main entrance to the corridor a 
flourishing group of Luculia gratissima is planted, and at 
flowering-time fills the air with its delightful fragrance. A 
little further on and overhead, masses of Bougainvillea glabra, 



SANDRINGHAM 143 

in its season, arrest attention. An old Mimosa (Acacia deal- 
bata) which never fails to flower abundantly, a favourite of 
His late Majesty who brought it from France, covers a large 
space of roof. It has for companion, Rhynchospermum jas- 
minoides, the perfume of whose star-like white flowers per- 
vades the corridor. Solanum Wendlandii, with its cymes of 
soft blue flowers, contrasts with rich yellow blossoms of Cassia 
corymbosa. Plumbago capensis and its white form, many 
varieties of Acacias, Passifloras, Chorizemas, Clianthus, 
Hidalgoa Wercklei and Jasminum primulinum, not hardy 
here in the open garden, but, with the others, finds a warm 
welcome within, and repays for protection by yielding a 
wealth of large yellow double flowers borne on long pendulous 
shoots. 

The stages are filled with groups of flowering plants, 
special provision being made for a bright display during the 
winter months. Quantities of Salvia splendens grandiflora, 
S. leucantha, S. azurea ; all the types of Chrysanthemums 
(particularly the single and more decorative varieties) ; Zonal 
Pelargoniums ; Heliotrope (of which the variety Mdme. 
Bussy is a favourite) ; Cyclamen ; quantities of Liliums (the 
season of these useful plants being extended by the use of 
many retarded bulbs), are among the plants used. In spring 
an effective display is produced with Schizanthus pinnatus 
and its hybrid forms, and when associated with Calceolaria 
Clibrani the result is very pleasing. Regal Pelargoniums, 
Marguerites, Azaleas, Pink Pearl Rhododendrons, Lilacs and 
a host of bulbous and hardy flowering plants which readily 
respond to forcing, are also used for early display. Around 
the front of the stages an edging of Tufa with Ferns, 
Selaginellas and Saxifragas planted in recesses of this miniature 
rockwork, hide the flower-pots and form a charming ever- 
green finish. 

Leading off the corridor are two stoves. The first con- 
tains a collection of Codisums (Crotons), of which specimen 
plants 8 to 9 feet high occupy the central stage. The side 
stages are devoted to smaller decorative plants, including 



144 ROYAL GARDENS 

batches of the useful Pandanus Veitchii, Panax Victorias, 
Acalypha Sanderi, Aralia Veitchii and the indispensable 
Fittonias. The second stove is devoted mainly to Anthu- 
riums in variety and Pancratiums, both of which are in 
much demand for cut flowers. The side stages are filled 
during the growing season with a collection of Calanthes, 
whose places are taken in winter by Plumbago rosea, 
Poinsettia pulcherrima, Coleus Thyrsoideus, Gesneras, &c. 
An interesting specimen of Dendrobium moschatum (in an 
1 8-inch pot, and measuring 6 feet high and 9 through) well 
fills up one end of the central stage. Creepers are trained 
overhead on narrow trellises, and comprise plants of AUa- 
mandas, Aristolochia gigas, Clerodendrons, Ipomasa Hors- 
fallias, Passiflora princeps, Rondeletia speciosa, Conbretum 
racemosum and Stephanotis, the gable ends being covered 
with Begonia President Carnot, and Plumbago rosea. 

The next range consists of three Orchid-houses : an East 
Indian, Cattleya and Intermediate house. There are also 
two Odontoglossum-houses, and one for Cslogyne Cristata 
with its varieties, and Cypripedium insigne. All are grown 
for decorative and cut-flower purposes, and include such 
useful subjects as Cattleya labiata, C. Gaskelliana, C. Trianae, 
Cymbidium Tracyanum, C. Lowianum, Cypripedium can- 
didum, C, Cardinale, C. Leeanum superbum, C. insigne 
Harefield Hall, C. insigne Sanders, C, niteus superbum, 
Miltonia vexillaria, many useful Oncidiums, Dendrobium 
Phalsnopsis, the lovely Vanda coerulea, Laslia anceps, L. a. 
Stella, Masdevalha Harryana, M. ignea, the beautiful Odonto- 
glossum Crispum, O. Pescatorei, and O. pulchellum. 

Next comes the Begonia range of three houses, which 
for all the winter months are exclusively filled with Begonia 
de Lorraine. Doors are removed from the centre houses, 
and doorways hung as well as roof arched with Begonias 
in cork baskets, and the edge of the stages being draped 
with trailing plants of the same, the whole appears a verit- 
able fairy bower of exquisite pink. The effect is heightened, 
too, by an arrangement of mirrors at the far end, which 



SANDRINGHAM 145^ 

gives an illusion of even greater length than the actual. 
After the Begonia flowering season these houses are filled 
with Gloxinias, Streptocarpus, Thyrsacanthus rutilans, Ferns, 
Caladiums and Coleus among many others. 

Two lofty Carnation-houses come next, and are never 
without their quota of plants in flower. Carnations being 
favourites of Her Majesty Queen Alexandra (as they were, 
too, of His late Majesty), they are grown in considerable 
numbers. One house is filled with plants of the Perpetual- 
flowering type, and the other with a selection of Malmaison 
varieties, of which Princess of Wales is still the favourite. 
Carnations, principally the variety Cecilia, are trained at 
wide intervals up the roof and gables, and in these positions 
produce flowers of especially fine size and quality. A range 
of three other houses (one of which is planted out on the 
American bench system, an excellent method where cut 
flowers only are wished for), and the other two are used for 
growing-on the Perpetual-flowering varieties. This type has 
now rather taken the place of the border sorts largely culti- 
vated in pots at one time. A low pit is also utilised for 
growing-on the younger Malmaisons. Most of the leading 
varieties of carnations are grown, and are all very greatly 
esteemed. 

At the east end of, and just outside the corridor, is a 
block of useful span-roof buildings, containing propagating, 
Melon, Cucumber and Tomato houses. Separate compart- 
ments being devoted to Cyclamen (which are raised annually 
from seed). Heliotrope (many plants in the form of 
standards), and Begonias (of the large winter-flowering type, 
such as Elatior, Ideala, Bowdon Beauty, Lucy Clibran and 
Clibran's Pink). These all come in for a good share of 
admiration. Then, too, Hippeastrums, both for winter and 
spring flowering, claim special attention, as do pot Roses, 
Gardenias and Gesneras. There is also a compartment for 
forcing plants of all descriptions for cut-flower supplies, 
among which Lily of the Valley is constantly in great 
demand. 

T 



146 ROYAL GARDENS 

Although, for obvious reasons, it is impossible to include 
mention of every interesting feature, I venture to hope that 
this account of many things in high favour and some of 
the methods adopted at Sandringham, will be useful as sug- 
gesting to garden lovers, good plants and varieties to get 
for cultivation, and how they may best be arranged and 
displayed. 



I 



CHAPTER XI 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 

The subject of garden designing is a very large one, and 
numerous volumes and treatises have been written on it. 
None the less I venture to think that an attempt to discover 
and classify the underlying principles w^hich have led to 
extraordinarily successful results in the royal gardens herein 
described, may serve as a useful and not uninteresting con- 
clusion to this book, although anything like a full treatment 
of so wide a subject is, of course, beyond its scope. 

The reasons for the existence of gardens are, in the main, 
threefold. To provide a setting for the dwelling-house by 
leading the eye insensibly from the more or less severe outlines 
of its architecture to the broad and flowing lines of the sur- 
rounding country ; to contribute to the pleasure, comfort, 
convenience and privacy of its owner ; and to supply food in 
the shape of fruit and vegetables for the household. The 
two former only can be considered in these notes, which have 
been compiled after a study of the means adopted towards 
ornamental and pleasure-giving ends in some of the most 
famous and beautiful gardens in Great Britain. 

Perhaps the most important lesson to be learned from royal 
gardens, is that no really successful result can be expected, 
either in altering an old garden or laying out a new one, 
unless a definite plan is made use of. This does not mean 
that it is necessary to have a paper-plan prepared by a pro- 
fessional designer, who may or may not know the ground 
really well. It means rather that whoever undertakes the 
work, must not only know intimately — as a lover — every 

feature of the site, must have studied with utmost care both 

147 



148 ROYAL GARDENS 

style and class of house to which the garden belongs (as well 
as the landscape surrounding it) ; but in addition to all this 
he must gradually build up in his mind before the actual work 
is begun, a definite idea of the result he wishes to achieve, and 
every detail of the means he intends to employ. Frequently, 
when gardens are felt to be lacking in charm it is simply 
owing to want of design. Trees, shrubs, lawns, paths, flower 
borders and garden accessories, all good some beautiful in 
themselves, are not in the right places, or are not in true 
proportion to each other. It is very seldom that the best 
results are obtained by accident. And a short inquiry into the 
qualities and principles which artists (perhaps unconsciously) 
have used in painting, may help to simplify and make in- 
tentional the practice of garden design. For that, after all, 
occupies a position about midway between the science of 
horticulture and the art of landscape painting. 

An exceedingly thoughtful and stimulating book has 
recently been published,^ in which the mental processes that 
have gone to the making of great masterpieces of painting are 
analysed. The author names four absolutely essential qualities, 
(i) Unity ; (2) Vitality ; (3) Infinity ; and (4) Repose. The 
principles by which these qualities may be obtained are each 
discussed under seven minor, but vastly important, heads. 
And the whole volume is generally looked upon as forming 
one of the most valuable and lucid contributions to the 
science of art criticism ever written. Without stretching 
the analogy between the arts of painting and garden- 
designing to breaking-point, I purpose to try and show, as 
briefly as possible, that he who wishes to lay out a garden 
successfully may derive considerable assistance from a study of 
the four scientific principles which underlie, and are essential 
to, the production of good pictures. 

I . Unity. — By this is meant singleness of purpose ; to be 
achieved, as far as painting is concerned, by simplicity in 

^ Notes on the Science of Picture-jnaking, by C. J. Holmes, M.A., Slade Professor of 
Fine Art in the University of Oxford. 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 149 

design, absence of confusion in colour effects, and by breadth 
of arrangement in light and shade. The result of sufficient 
attention not having been paid to this quality may be seen 
in many gardens, where the details possibly are beautiful 
when taken separately, but the whole is restless in effect and 
lacking in reposeful coherence. On the other hand, if the 
principle of unity is carried too far, the garden may become 
monotonous. Perhaps the best way to attain unity is to 
make one definite centre of interest and allow nothing to 
compete with it, all the rest of the design leading up, as it 
were, to this particular point. In large gardens it may, 
probably will, be necessary to have more than one such centre. 
In which case all the others should be subsidiary to the 
principal one, and should be screened with trees, shrubs or 
natural elevations of the ground, in order that not more than 
two can be seen from any one place. The main centre in 
gardens of this type may be marked by a noble fountain, the 
principal stairway leading from the terrace, or the middle of 
the largest expanse of lawn, according to the architectural 
style of the house, and the character of the surrounding 
landscape. Minor centres may be indicated by arbours, lily 
ponds, statues (though they seem more in place generally on 
a terrace), sculptured vases, small one-colour gardens, hand- 
some sundials and the like. A bold group of trees behind 
or near to these centres will give the necessary effect of unity. 
And here it may be observed that the position of already 
well-grown timber will often determine the exact spot in 
which to create a centre. When there are only small trees, or 
none, inside the garden boundaries, use may be made of an 
outside group to act as background for the centre, thus 
deciding its position. And if, unfortunately, that also is not 
available, shrubs and quickly growing trees should be planted 
without delay to become ornamental for backgrounds, and 
useful as screens. Special care, of course, must be taken so to 
group the trees that a pleasant ' sky-line,' or general outside 
shape against the sky, will result. In small gardens where it 
may be desired to encourage an ' old-fashioned ' cottage effect, 



I50 ROYAL GARDENS 

the house itself or the door leading from house to garden, 
may well be considered as the principal centre. And, when 
needed, one or at most two other and less important ones, 
away from the house (and if possible out of sight of each 
other) may be indicated by a well-proportioned rose-arch, 
forming a sort of gateway between flower and vegetable 
garden, or by a small and carefully selected old sundial. 

2. Vitality. — The sense of life in a picture. This is pro- 
bably the easiest of the four to secure in a garden, since the 
materials with which a gardener makes his effects are nearly 
all living and growing plants, trees and flowers. But the sense 
of vitality is immensely increased by bold arrangements of 
light and shade, and by well-chosen schemes of contrasting 
colour. Evergreen trees such as cypress, yew, juniper and 
conifers, with brown prunus and copper beech, supply the 
darks in variety. Light trees, among which may be men- 
tioned maple, ash, acacia, willow and silver birch, together 
with certain shrubs, will form the more permanent masses 
of light. But the flowers themselves, for which all the rest 
is but a setting or background, are, naturally, the principal 
resource for light. Unity is obtained by harmonious blend- 
ing, and vitality increased by striking contrasts, of colour. 
The dangers to be avoided in aiming at vitality are : too 
many and over sudden oppositions of light and shade, and 
too daring colour schemes. These will have a 'spotty' or 
' busy ' effect, and so destroy the unity of the garden. By 
light and shade is meant here, the permanent contrast of dark 
and light masses, not the effect of sun and shadow, though 
these too will of course be taken into consideration by a 
skilful garden designer. 

3. Infinity. — This is another term for mystery. As applied 
to gardens, mystery may be taken to mean the hiding and 
revealing of its beauties. A garden which exposes its whole 
area at once, or can be altogether seen from any one place, 
can never be as charming as it might be made. The element 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 151 

of surprise is wanting. Even in quite small gardens much 
may be done to remove this objection. Screens of trellis 
grown over with climbing plants, a well thought out scheme 
of shrub and hedge planting, the introduction of quick-grow- 
ing deciduous and evergreen trees will suggest themselves at 
once as means towards the end in view. Indeed the only kind 
of site which presents almost insuperable difficulties in the 
way of obtaining mystery, is the flat oblong plot nearly always 
left without a single growing thing by the speculative builder ; 
and even this will yield, in a few years, to the natural beauty 
and mystery of living trees, shrubs and flowers, if they are 
placed with skill. In large gardens the quality of mystery or 
surprise can scarcely be avoided, but it may be emphasised, if 
necessary, by judicious planting and by taking advantage of 
the undulations of the ground. Water and wild gardens, also, 
have a very great value in increasing the sense and charm of 
mystery. 

4. Repose. — Of all the four qualities necessary for the 
making of good pictures, this is the most essential to success 
in a garden. Its meaning is defined : " If unity may be said 
to give a painting coherent structure, vitality to inspire it 
with the breath of life, infinity to redeem it from shallow- 
ness, repose may be said to endow it with good manners." 
The one fault absolutely beyond forgiveness in a garden is 
vulgarity. And yet how often it is to be met with. Modern 
villa gardens are time after time ruined by pretentiousness. 
Plaster statues, basely designed and florid vases, sham old 
sundials ; terraces and balustrades, dragged in, as it were, by 
head and shoulders into places where they are neither wanted 
nor ornamental ; varnished ' rustic ' summer-houses ; cast- 
iron seats, out of all proportion to their surroundings, abound 
within their boundaries. Those responsible for such gardens, 
because they have seen the grand effect of large and well- 
proportioned accessories in stately grounds, seem to think 
that bad copies will have a similar result in smaller places. 
It cannot too strongly be urged that all such importations 



152 ROYAL GARDENS 

must be introduced only for reasons dictated by good taste, 
convenience and common sense. Their selection should be 
made under a strong feeling for proportion as regards their 
size, number, quality and value, so that they may in reality 
be suitable to the house for which it is sought to make 
the garden an ideal setting. A garden without repose misses 
its first reason for being. The watchwords of repose are : 
Simplicity, Proportion, Suitability and Elimination — sim- 
plicity of design, proportion of parts, suitability to surround- 
ings, and elimination of the meretricious and unworthy. 

It has been seen, then, that in a picture, no matter how 
' beautiful the colour, skilful and scholarly the technique, and 
graceful the sentiment, unless these qualities are united and 
vivified by a definite scheme of light and shade, by singleness 
of purpose, by a composition or spacing of the principal 
masses ; unless it is given mystery by a delicate suggestive- 
ness, and repose by a stern expulsion of trivial and unneces- 
sary details, the result is felt to be wanting in charm and 
coherence. So in a garden, the most lovely flowers, most 
graceful trees and shrubs, the tenderest care and skill in cul- 
tivation will not give a restful and pleasing effect, unless to 
the placing of its component parts, to the juxtaposition of 
colours, to the disposition of masses of dark and light plants, 
to the hiding and revealing of its beauties, and to the keep- 
ing out of undignified and trifling ' objects of interest,' the 
greatest attention be paid. A strong sense of proportion, 
too, is as necessary in garden designing as in painting a 
picture. This will determine size of shrubberies, amount of 
space to be devoted to lawns and flower-beds, width of paths, 
height and scale of rose-arches, arbours, sundials and so 
forth. Without sacrificing comfort and convenience, all these 
and many other similar parts or accessories of the garden 
should be designed in proportion to its area, or at all events 
to the amount of it which can be seen from any one point. 
Introducing large and in themselves possibly beautiful foun- 
tains, pergolas or arbours into a small garden, will only have 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 153 

a pretentious and disappointing effect. On the other hand, 
* furnishing ' a large garden should be done on a scale pro- 
portionate to the size and importance of the place. For if 
such objects are too small their appearance will be frivolous 
and commonplace. In this connection the Pergola at Sand- 
ringham may be instanced as a fine example of grand propor- 
tion. Had it not been very large and important, its effect, 
considering the length of garden to which it leads, would 
not have been anything like so dignified and satisfactory as 
it undoubtedly is. 

In the matter of backgrounds, also, a practice of painters 
may well be followed by designers of gardens. When a painter 
wishes to draw attention to a special passage of colour or 
light ; to, as it were, focus the mind of the spectator on some 
particular part of his picture, he places round it or near to it 
a mass of quietly contrasting, restful and not too attractive 
colour. So, too, the gardener should always remember that the 
beauty of a plant, or group of plants, is immensely enhanced 
by being seen against a suitable background. These may be 
old red-brick or grey stone walls, a dark green clipped hedge 
or group of evergreen trees. The importance of the whole 
subject of backgrounds can scarcely be over-estimated. It 
has received a very great amount of care and attention in 
all the royal gardens described and illustrated in this book. 
At Sandringham every advantage is taken of natural back- 
grounds supplied by masses or groups of beautiful and varied 
foliage. At Claremont and at Hampton Court, old brick 
walls partly clothed with wistaria, roses and other trained 
or climbing plants, form a splendid foil to herbaceous borders 
and beds of lovely annuals. At Osborne Cottage, a long 
creeper-clad corridor, connecting two houses, makes a fine 
background to flowers in both parts of the garden it divides. 
In Norman Tower garden, the famous ' Windsor Grey ' 
walls provide a perfect setting for roses, liliums, delphiniums 
and countless other flowers grown there in such wonderful 
profusion. While at Bagshot Park, great and most successful 
use is made of shrubs, trees and evergreen clipped hedges 

u 



154 ROYAL GARDENS 

for the purpose of showing flowers to the very best advan- 
tage. At other gardens, too, splendid natural or arranged 
backgrounds are employed which have been mentioned in 
previous chapters. 

A revival of an old practice is again in favour among 
garden designers of the present day, which gives the best 
possible results so far as large gardens are concerned. That 
is, to design formal ' old-fashioned ' gardens near the house, 
lawns and shade trees in a very irregular belt beyond, and, 
towards the outskirts of the ground enclosed, to encourage, 
with artistic negligence, a wild garden ; thus making the 
transition from house to garden, and from that to park 
or open country, easy and gradual. In this way use is 
made of the best traditions of both the old formal seven- 
teenth-century gardeners, and those of the ' Natural ' school 
of landscape designers. The system here mentioned was 
brought into use again by Repton, but was originally in- 
vented by Bridgeman. At its first introduction it was very 
short-lived, being superseded by Brown's ' Natural ' methods, 
which abhorred formality in every shape. Its present re- 
vival appears likely to become the permanent principle of 
all garden design. While specially suitable for large places, 
there does not seem to be any reason against adopting the 
system (of course in a proportionate manner) in laying out 
gardens of a comparatively small area. Such treatment 
gives, in a thoroughly legitimate way, an effect of size and 
space, because the garden, instead of being designed more 
or less formally to its furthest boundaries, becomes, in a 
sense, part of the landscape beyond. And in even a small 
wild garden there is opportunity for cultivating many beauti- 
ful plants which would not seem in place in the more formal 
parts. To help the effect of belonging to the outside 
country, sunk fences (also invented by Bridgeman) are used, 
in large properties, between garden and park. But in small 
places this is obviously impossible, and the only method of 
attaining a similar end is to keep boundary fences as low as 
may be without destroying their use as a screen for privacy 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 155 



and an excellent protection against cold winds. The West 
Garden at Sandringham, described in Chapter X., is probably 
the finest example in this country of the formal and wild 
method of garden-planning. And the grounds at Bagshot 
Park, also, are laid out on these principles with the most 
striking success. 

In designing formal gardens it is well to make use of 
knowledge acquired in many years' experience by painters. 
Artists know that horizontal lines in a picture have a ten- 
dency to give it a quality of calm and space, that vertical 
lines or tall upright objects suggest dignity, impressive- 
ness and even melancholy when carried to excess — what, for 
instance, is more solemn than the upright trunks in a huge 
pine forest, or the columns of a vast cathedral ?— and that 
rounded masses will counteract these tendencies and help 
to complete the design. So, too, in a garden. A sense of 
repose and spaciousness is conveyed by level lines of parterre, 
terrace and lawn ; and a judicious use of tall 'pillar' trees — 
such as cypress, Irish yew, certain hollies, junipers and conifers 
— will add dignity and a feeling of not unpleasant melancholy. 
But if too many, or over prominent, these trees (and other 
objects of a similar general shape) will excite an emotion of 
monotonous sadness. Then, the grace of rounded masses 
of shrubs (clipped or natural) and trees — especially the light 
feathery ones like acacia, birch and willow — will correct 
any too strong inclination towards solemn formality. An 
instance of the treatment here suggested may be seen 
carried out to perfection in the West Garden at Sandringham. 
A most agreeable effect of dignity and repose has been 
created by the introduction of upright golden hollies and 
trim yews arnong the gay flowers and horizontal lines of 
an exquisite parterre. And the garden is saved from a too 
great formality by masses of foliage and shrubs (taking a 
more or less rounded form) in the background, and among 
flowers at the feet of the more formal trees. 

At most of the places in a garden whence it can be seen 
to special advantage, a ' point of interest ' should be made ; 



156 ROYAL GARDENS 

thus gently suggesting to a spectator that here it is well 
to linger a while. This may take the form of a junction 
of paths, an arbour or a seat. Again, a garden from certain 
doors or windows of the house may appear so beautiful as 
to require but little alteration to make it even better. Extra 
care should be taken and no pains spared to improve these 
aspects. Planting trees in certain places and cutting down 
others (only to be done after most serious thought, and then 
reluctantly) may make a vast change for the better. A 
knowledge of the main principles of composition in land- 
scape painting will help a gardener in carrying out these 
improvements. An arrangement of masses and groups that 
makes a good picture on canvas will assuredly go far towards 
turning a comparatively uninteresting view in nature into 
a pleasing one. Other things — such as beauty of plants and 
perfection in cultivation — being equal, it may be said with 
truth that those gardens which afford most frequent oppor- 
tunities for painting pleasant pictures — with the smallest 
amount of arranging, leaving out, or ' composing ' — are 
most satisfying to both eye and mind of a beholder. 

There are, however, two especial ways in which the 
practice of gardener and painter totally differ. Pictures once 
finished are seldom altered again, and then only by an 
intentional act of man ; whereas gardeners have to deal with 
nature's changing seasons and with plants ever increasing in size. 
In consequence garden designers are compelled to exercise 
imagination, as well as knowledge, in planting trees and shrubs, 
and in arranging colour schemes of flowers for future display. 
They cannot, like the painter, at once see the effect of their 
work, but are compelled to try and realise as far as possible how 
it will look when plants are fully grown. In the case of trees, 
they must either plant thinly at first or leave special instruc- 
tions as to thinning out in course of time. Thousands of 
splendid ' specimen ' trees have been ruined by over thick 
planting, or by not having growth from encroaching neigh- 
bours removed in time. And very many promising flower- 
beds have been turned into disappointments by their colours 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 157 

appearing inharmonious when plants have arrived at maturity, 
whereas the very same flowers differently arranged would 
have given complete satisfaction and delight. Again, the 
gardener will do well to bear in mind that in a few years a 
group of trees intended to present its best appearance from a 
certain point, may by injudicious selection and placing of 
quick and slow growing varieties, become entirely different 
from what was expected. He should, as far as possible, choose 
a well-established tree or group for a nucleus and, as it were, 
build up to them with new additions to form the ' mass ' 
he wants. In this way and by careful pruning and thinning, 
the general shape or ' composition ' will be preserved and 
his original idea, perhaps, improved upon. 

The second important respect in which garden designing 
differs from pictorial art is this : a picture presents a de- 
finitely selected view from one chosen spot, or at all events 
should appear to do so, whereas a garden is seen from very 
many places by persons moving about in it. This difference 
does not in reality contradict the assertion that gardens give 
peculiar satisfaction when designed more or less in accordance 
with generally accepted laws of pictorial composition. For 
that proposition chiefly refers to aspects of a garden from 
specially chosen points of view, which it is suggested should 
be indicated by seats or arbours. And because certain aspects 
are improved by a well-devised scheme of massing and spacing 
is no reason for fearing that other views will thereby suffer. 
On the contrary, well-arranged groups of actual living trees 
and growing flowers seen under the vivid light and shade 
of real sunlight, will appear all the better from every point 
for the care and thought that have gone to make them as 
perfect as possible when seen from one particular place. In 
other words, let art and nature combine to make certain 
prospects superlatively good, and nature will see to it that 
others are not worsened. 

Paths and walks are so essentially necessary in every 
garden that I think it better to include a few remarks 



158 ROYAL GARDENS 

on them in this chapter of general principles, and to leave 
other features for discussion under separate headings in 
the next. 

In making walks and paths, comfort and convenience 
must ever be the foremost principle. Next comes, as hinted 
at before, a sense of proportion. It is, nowadays, almost 
unnecessary to say that paths should never be made without 
good reason ; but it is still, unfortunately, not superfluous to 
add that they should generally go straight to their object. 
There are, even now, many cases where wobbling serpentine 
walks stray aimlessly about ; apparently because followers of 
the " Capability " Brown school were fond of asserting that 
" Nature abhors straight lines." It is true that the fault of 
Le Notre's style was an excess of straight lines, but that of 
Brown (and especially his followers) was the almost invariable 
use they made of curves. In this, as in most things, a middle 
course is best ; and use of both straight and curving lines 
should be dictated by common sense, and by suitability to 
surroundings and to the ' lie ' of the ground. If the above- 
mentioned saying had run, " Nature abhors hard edges," it 
would have been more nearly true, though not even then the 
whole truth. For Nature gives emphasis and vitality to her 
wonderful pictures by accentuating edges here and there, and 
infinity by softness or blurring in other parts. She will 
always soften edges when allowed or encouraged to do so ; 
and hard straight edges of paths can be disguised and made 
pleasing by inducing plants to grow over them. This is 
done with most charming effect at Sandringham, and in 
Norman Tower garden. 

When there is a good reason for it, paths may certainly 
be curved ; and in some cases either the shape or an im- 
portant feature of the garden make the practice almost 
compulsory. For instance a walk following the natural 
curves of a garden lake should be curved rather than made 
in a series of straight lengths ; and where the ground is 
undulating, some paths may well be constructed in curves 
emphasising the rise and fall. This is very well exemplified 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 159 

at Sandringham. There every advantage is taken of natural 
hill and valley ; and where the ground is undulating, paths are 
curved, and where level or nearly so, straight walks are the 
rule. Paths leading straight away from a house or terrace 
should always have a definite end. This may be marked by 
erecting some ' object of interest,' as a statue, fountain, sun- 
dial or built arbour in large gardens, or by a small sundial 
or suitably constructed summer-house in small ones. And 
if a path leads in the exact direction of a specially lovely 
distant view, some smaller and less obtrusive point may mark 
its end, such as a group of diminutive flowering shrubs, a 
tiny rock garden, or a specially selected mass of quiet- 
coloured flowers. At Bagshot Park the end of one straight 
path leading from the terrace is exceptionally and most 
happily treated. The walk diverges and embraces four sides 
of a little square garden which is set with one of its angles 
towards the centre line of the path. Facing inwards 
opposite each of the three other corners there are clipped 
yew arbours furnished with very well proportioned and 
comfortable seats. The middle of the square or ' diamond ' 
garden is ornamented with a statue of the running Mercury, 
and the background consists of splendid flowering trees and 
shrubs, conifers and (still further behind) noble beeches and 
oaks. And a straight path leading away from the terrace on 
the west front at Sandringham, has its further end marked 
in an interesting and very uncommon manner. A Chinese 
temple, or Joss-house, shelters a bronze antique figure of the 
seated Buddha. The beautifully carved and fretted wooden 
building is surrounded on three sides with trees so carefully 
chosen as to make it seem quite at home in a thoroughly 
English garden. The ends of straight paths, avenues and 
vistas at Hampton Court, too, are most successfully dealt 
with. 

To treat walks and paths with success is one of the chief 
difficulties a garden designer has to meet. Very many 
gardens are disappointing because too little attention has 
been given to this matter ; and a whole volume might be 



i6o ' ROYAL GARDENS 



written on a subject of such vast importance to success or 
failure. Paths there must be for convenience in working, 
and for visiting different parts of the garden. Just where 
they should be, of what materials constructed, their width, 
curvature or straightness, edging, draining and so forth, must 
all most carefully be thought out. The paths in Norman 
Tower garden are in every way models of how to treat the 
difficult problem. They follow, in general, the plan of the 
garden. They are extremely well made and are paved with 
brick, and so are dry, clean, free from weed and most con- 
venient for use in all weathers. They are excellent in 
proportion, and look in thorough keeping with all their 
surroundings. Above all they invariably lead to the exact 
spot required ; and from them, all along, the very beauties 
they are made to conduct visitors to, can best be seen. And 
yet, though the garden is accessible in every part, it does not 
seem over pathed. Grass paths with flower borders on both 
sides are very attractive, and might be used more often than 
they are. But they should not be attempted in those parts of 
the country where rainfall is above average. In the garden 
at Swiss Cottage, Osborne, there is a most pleasing specimen 
of this practice. A wide grass path leads over the gentle 
hill on which the garden is made. On either side are most 
beautiful borders, partly herbaceous, and partly bedded 
out. Flowers are seen to extreme perfection because the 
velvet texture and tone of turf between the borders, and the 
variety of foliage background close behind, affords a most 
harmonious contrast to their beauty. Nature would not 
have filled the world with such a wealth of green, if the 
various shades of that colour were not a supremely right foil 
or setting to the gem-like flowers she provides with such 
astonishing and welcome profusion. 



CHAPTER XII 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN {continued) 

"Terraces. — In the very earliest records of systematised 
gardening, allusions are made to terraces. They were, at 
first, merely used with roughly built retaining walls for 
strictly utilitarian purposes in hillside gardens, but their 
decorative possibilities were observed at least 4000 years ago. 
This rapidly became so marked, that the terrace gardens of 
Babylon have a special place in the history of that very 
ancient civilisation. Their use spread, by way of Egypt and 
Greece, to Italy. In that country they soon became of such 
importance that the villa gardens of the ancient Roman 
aristocracy — almost always built among the hills for health 
and coolness in summer — contain to this day examples of 
terrace work which have never been surpassed. During the 
great Italian Renaissance, the most famous artists were 
frequently employed to design these precipice gardens ; and 
the more difficult the problem, the greater delight they seem 
to have taken in their work. 

As a feature of a formal garden near a house, terraces 
have for several centuries been utilised in England. They 
should, however, not be constructed unless the style of the 
house demands them, and the lie of the ground is distinctly 
undulating, not to say hilly. When a garden is situated in a 
flat country, the less artificial moving of soil there is, the 
greater the feeling of ' repose ' will be. Instead of making 
terraces or miniature hills and valleys, which must obviously 
seem out of keeping with the surrounding landscape, variety 
can be better obtained by effective massing or grouping of 
tall trees in some parts of the garden and small ones in others. 



l62 



ROYAL GARDENS 



the object being to ' break ' the sky-line instead of attempt- 
ing great alterations in the ground surface. So long as the 
eye travels pleasantly upwards and downwards in looking at a 
view, it is immaterial whether those movements take place 
high up or low down in the picture. But when the ground 
is really appropriate, terraces have a very stately effect, act as 
a link between mansion and grounds, and give many oppor- 
tunities for interesting methods of gardening. 

Some writers on garden design seem to have a strong 
dislike of any architectural features being included. They 
are mostly horticulturists pure and simple. In their opinion 
the functions of an architect entirely cease at the outer walls 
of the house. Others again, for the most part professional 
architects, insist that house and garden being parts of one 
scheme, both should be designed by the same person. There 
is a good deal to be said for and against both opinions. If 
architectural features are to be totally abolished, one of the 
best ways for ' setting ' a house comfortably into its environ- 
ment disappears. And, on the other hand, if built brick and 
stone work is overdone, the garden loses much of its charm 
and suavity, through severe lines and hard edges taking the 
place rightly belonging to soft and blurred masses of foliage. 
Probably the wisest course is to make no hard and fast rule 
on the subject, but to allow the peculiar circumstances of 
each case to decide the matter. 

When the mansion is stately, somewhat severe in style, 
and hard in outline ; when it is built above the general level 
of the garden, and the surrounding landscape is undulating, 
there are several good reasons for making terraces. One is 
that the firm lines of the house are repeated by similar forms, 
on a smaller scale, in the terrace. Vertical lines are cor- 
rected by horizontal, and both are softened and harmonised 
by diagonals. A long level terrace corrects the stiff" up- 
right appearance of the house, and both are blended into a 
pleasing whole by the slope of terrace steps and pitch of 
roofs and gables. Another excellent reason for constructing 
terraces is, not only do they ' repeat ' line and form but also 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 163 

colour. Repetition of colour and form is known among 
artists to create a feeling of rhythm, harmony and repose 
in a painting. There are innumerable instances of this. 
When a painter is more or less compelled to paint a passage 
in some striking and obtrusive colour (such as a military 
uniform in a portrait), and yet wishes to harmonise his whole 
composition, he places smaller masses of the same colour 
(possibly in slightly differing shades) in various parts of his 
picture. The result is to make the violent passage less in- 
sistent. So when a house is built in red brick, for example, 
and its surroundings — for the most part green, the exact 
complementary of red — must be brought into harmony with 
it, a garden designer will do well to carry red into the garden 
and green on to the walls of the house. A red brick terrace 
in good proportion as to height and length, with a balustrade 
or parapet repeating in style, colour and form (but all, of 
course, in a minor degree) the features of the house, will 
be likely to answer his purpose in the best possible way. 
Creepers and trained plants on both terrace and house will 
help to blend and harmonise the whole. And if still more 
repetition is wanted, red-tiled roofs of stables and lodges, 
partly seen and partly hidden ; planting here and there red 
and brown leaved trees ; and above all, a really well-chosen 
scheme of colour in flower-beds will complete a successful 
design. 

The terrace at Bagshot Park has called forth some of the 
above thoughts and suggestions. The work there has been 
designed and carried out with the utmost success, and is fully 
described in Chapter III. The modern Italian style of ter- 
racing at Osborne, also, is particularly noteworthy, and forms 
a stately connecting link between mansion and park. The 
terrace is made on two levels. Extremely well-proport oned 
and handsome flights of steps lead from one to the other. 
Statues and fountains, a graceful pergola with stone pillars, 
and flower-filled vases are its ' furniture.' The Norman 
Tower terraces are circular in plan, and, like all the main 
features in that lovely and unique garden, deserve most atten- 



1 64 ROYAL GARDENS 

tive study. The precipitous and very peculiar form of the 
ground on which it is made, caused terraces to be essential 
there, for no other treatment could have made the garden 
accessible. But the manner in w^hich the work has been 
carried out is so admirable, both in design and construction, 
that it irresistibly calls to mind the exquisite old villa gardens 
of mediseval Italy — the best models in the world. 

The foregoing remarks have been made in reference to 
terraces with brick or stone retaining walls, and apply more 
especially to a stately or severe style of mansion. When 
architectural features and colour of materials are not so pro- 
nounced, and when the house is well clad with creepers, a 
more gentle method of terracing may well be adopted. 
Instead of a more or less perpendicular wall, grass slopes at 
an angle of about 45 degrees are sometimes used. With 
stone steps at intervals, this type gives a handsome and pleasing 
effect without severity. The objections are, mainly, two : 
difficulty and expense of keeping steep turf slopes in good 
order ; and, a bank is unsuitable for having flower-beds placed 
immediately at its foot ; whereas nothing looks better than 
flowers at the base of a creeper-clothed wall. The long 
terrace on the west front at Sandringham is a very fine 
example of the turfed-bank method of treatment. And it 
has been employed, also, in other royal gardens. 

Lawns. — In nearly all gardens, lawns are a feature of 
especial charm and interest. They have been aptly described 
as the heart of an English garden, and are the scene of much 
of the social pleasure of those few months in the year during 
which people living in this country can enjoy life out of 
doors. And besides their usefulness, in appearance, also, they 
are most valuable. Nothing has so restful an effect as a 
stretch of well-kept turf. And nothing gives to a house, 
be it great or small, such an air of quiet comfort as a well- 
proportioned lawn. Whether garden is viewed from house, 
or house is seen from garden, a sense of repose and agreeable 
suitability is imparted by the intervening greensward. Flowers 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 165 

can always be seen to far greater advantage when green and 
smooth turf is spread close up to them, than when arranged 
in a stiff border alongside a gravel path. A lawn, embordered 
here and there with flowers, backgrounded with shrubs and 
trees, varied in shape, wandering off as it were into glades of 
turf between shady trees, forms one of the most delightful 
and satisfying features that can by any possibility be introduced 
into a garden. 

Though its edges may well be ornamented with flower- 
borders, the principal lawn should never be cut up by isolated 
flower-beds dotted about its surface. And of all beds, the 
kind to eliminate with utmost severity is that of a circular 
shape set down, without object or reason, haphazard in a 
lawn. For this practice not only destroys the chief reason 
for the existence of the lawn — namely, the sense of peaceful 
repose created by an uninterrupted expanse of smooth turf — 
but is, also, perhaps the least advantageous way of displaying 
the flowers themselves. If it is thought desirable to increase 
the space for flowers, and that can only be done by curtailing 
the lawn, probably the best method is to give up a part of 
one side or end to a series of well-proportioned beds, in a 
more or less geometrical design, with narrow turf walks 
between. But every true garden lover will hesitate long 
before sacrificing any portion of a feature so charming and 
satisfying as a well-kept lawn. 

Wherever possible the ground for tennis, croquet or other 
games should not be the principal, or ' beauty ' lawn. Courts 
for these pastimes are compelled to be more or less stiffly 
rectangular, and their surroundings should be plain and, to 
a certain extent, unadorned. Comfort and convenience of 
spectators, too, must be studied. It is decidedly against the 
principle of garden convenience to be obliged to spend much 
time in searching among flowers and shrubberies for lost balls. 
Flowers, too, are apt to suffer in the process. All these con- 
siderations make it extremely difficult to treat a stretch of 
turf intended for games in such a manner as the lawn, whose 
primary object is beauty, deserves. But when space is limited, 



i66 



ROYAL GARDENS 



a sort of compromise must be arrived at. And if one or other 
object has to be foregone, perhaps the one to go, in this 
particular case, should be beauty. Those who really love 
gardens for their beauty will always be able to find it even 
in a square plain-bordered expanse of level turf, but those who 
think that amusement should come before everything else, 
will have little eye and less pity for flowers and delicate shrubs 
placed too near the boundary lines of their favourite games. 

Water Gardens. — Where the lie of the ground is favourable, 
and other reasons do not forbid, no garden should be deprived 
of that most beautiful feature, a water garden ; for nothing 
adds so much to its charm and mystery, and few plants 
better repay in gracefulness the cost and care of cultivation 
than those which fringe a pond, or float upon its surface. It 
is universally acknowledged that the sight of a sheet of water 
fills the mind with a sense of beauty ; and any deep inquiry into 
the causes which account for this is, therefore, unnecessary. 
But it may be remarked, in passing, that there are two 
practical reasons for artists being fond of introducing placid 
water into their pictures, apart from romantic or emotional 
grounds. They are : i. Water, according to a very old saying 
among landscape painters, " brings light of the sky down into 
the foreground of the picture," and 2. Reflections in still 
water ' repeat ' both form and colour of surrounding objects. 
As said before, repetition is a well-known means for increasing 
a feeling of rhythmical repose in pictorial art. Both these 
causes should have similar, and even better, results when real 
trees and water are dealt with, than when only the compara- 
tively poor symbols for them employed by painters are in 
question. 

Water gardens may be classified under two heads, natural 
and artificial. To take the former first : where a stream 
passes through the grounds it is not difficult, by damming or 
broadening, to make a pond or lake. The charm of a real 
lake is so essentially due to its natural appearance, that the 
very greatest care and forethought must be exercised to obey 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 167 

nature's laws in making an imitation for the garden. Natural 
lines of bays and promontories, suggested by the valley to be 
partly filled, should be followed as far as possible ; and if 
stone lining to the dam or banks is necessary, it should be 
hidden by some of the many suitable waterside shrubs, grasses 
and flowers. Here and there, the ground may naturally 
suggest a marsh. Instead of doing away with this it should 
be planted with some of the numerous interesting and beautiful 
plants which are at home in such places. Other parts of the 
banks may be rocky ; and these may, in one or more places, 
be extended to form a distinct rock garden, for which no 
better or more suitable position can be found than on the 
margin of a sheet of water. 

Those parts of the lake farthest from the house may be 
treated in a more wild and free manner, thus gradually leading 
to the wild garden itself ; since in addition to all its other 
desirable qualities and intrinsic merits, a water garden of the 
natural type has this, too : it is one of the very best methods 
for linking up the formal and wild parts of a garden. Near 
the house, formal terraces and trim lawns may merge into 
soft grassy slopes with a narrow and irregular fringe of choice 
water-edge plants ; on rising ground and promontories, bold 
groups of suitable trees and shrubs may be planted ; and as the 
lake recedes, wilder growth may be encouraged, trees may 
come closer to the water, and an idea of uncultivated natural 
freedom will gradually present itself to the mind. This 
semi-wild or natural type of water garden is one of the most 
striking and successful features at Sandringham. The lake 
in the West Garden there is treated with consummate art, and 
may well be taken as a model of all that a water garden 
should be. There is a superb collection of the choicest 
aquatic plants, tree grouping is bold and effective, views 
of the lake from house and terrace are lovely in the ex- 
treme, and all planting has been most carefully done to 
preserve the best views and vistas. And above everything 
else, a charming natural effect has been created, and is 
imparted to the lake from whatever point it is seen. 



i68 



ROYAL GARDENS 



The artificial type of water garden comprises large foun- 
tains and their basins, and formal lily-tanks. They are nearly 
always included in the Italian style of garden design. Owing 
to their frank artificiality, their position in the garden is not 
solely dictated by natural laws. Nor is it a matter of supreme 
importance that all the surroundings of a pond, probably 
edged with dressed stone in formal lines, should be designed 
with implicit obedience to nature's teaching. Though, of 
course, no part of a garden should be allowed to go directly 
contrary to them ; and it is probable that in this case, formal 
ponds though they be, they will look better when placed in 
the lower parts of the garden rather than in the higher. 

In the old Pond Garden of Henry VIII. at Hampton 
Court, and in the new one at Kensington Palace, water plays 
a most important part. The former has an oval tank with a 
' splay ' fountain in the middle of its lowest level. The light 
is caught on small and very slightly curved sheets of falling 
water with a curious and rather fascinating effect. The new 
Pond Garden at Kensington Palace, with its oblong water- 
tank and fountains playing in old lead cisterns, is described in 
Chapter VII. Another charming water garden of the arti- 
ficial type is the Lily Garden at Bagshot Park. A small 
circular retreat, surrounded by rhododendrons and overlooked 
by cypresses, yews and conifers, has for centre a round and 
formal tank enclosed in a bower of roses. The little pond is 
planted with extremely choice water-lilies. The garden is 
entered, beneath rose arches, by three brick-paved paths, which 
meet in an annular walk, also paved with old red brick, around 
the centre pond. In each of the three spaces of lawn between 
the radial paths is a narrow, curved water-tank, whose shape 
follows the general circular plan. These segmental tanks are 
fringed with London pride and iris, while on the surface of 
the water float leaves of many beautiful lilies. The effect 
of the whole is quite beautiful and decidedly original. At 
Claremont there is, in the middle of Princess Charlotte's 
Garden, a large round fountain basin. This is most effectively 
surrounded with Dorothy Perkins roses on short iron pillars 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 169 

and chains. In the superb pleasure-grounds at the same 
place, there is a recently established water garden, of the 
wild or natural type, on the bank of the large lake. And 
in Norman Tower garden, besides several small fountains 
beautifully designed and entirely appropriate to their sur- 
roundings, there is a miniature rocky stream, which, after 
flowing through a pretty lily-pond with moss-grown rocks 
and fringing ferns on its banks, empties itself into a small 
but very interesting bog garden. So that in this most ex- 
quisite little pleasance, among all its charms of sight and 
scent, the musical sound of falling and running water is not 
wanting. 

In places which happen to be near the sea or a large 
natural piece of water, any attempts at water gardening should 
be done, if at all, on a very small scale. Were a large 
artificial lake introduced, a kind of rivalry would, consciously 
or unconsciously, be felt, to the certain discomfiture of the 
unnatural. For this reason, the garden at Osborne, being 
within sight of the sea, has only a formal fountain on the 
terrace, and a water garden on the large scale required by 
the natural type has, most wisely, not been attempted. 

Even in quite small gardens, something may be done to- 
wards making a home for a few choice aquatic plants. The 
difficulties are doubtless great, and two of them are specially 
to be remembered before deciding to try the experiment. 
One is, in a small garden it is not easy to plan a tank that 
friends cannot fall or step into while looking at some other 
feature of the place. And the other is the stagnant water 
question. If these matters can be successfully arranged, a 
very great amount of pleasure will be derived from cultivat- 
ing some of the smaller sedges and water-lilies, even in a 
tiny pond. 

Bog Gardens. — These are closely allied to, and may almost 
be considered as belonging to the natural class of water 
garden ; for nowhere do they seem so thoroughly at home as 
on the margin of a lake, should it happen to be flat and 

Y 



I/O ROYAL GARDENS 

marshy. Bog gardens give fine opportunities for growing 
many extremely beautiful and interesting plants, and, where at 
all possible, should be encouraged. A stream which suggests 
forming a lake by broadening, draining and dam building at 
one point, also, by precisely opposite treatment, offers itself for 
conversion into a bog garden at another. Land bordering 
the stream should not be drained, but kept as moist as 
possible. Access to plants, and for working, may be gained 
by means of large irregular stones placed at convenient dis- 
tances apart, the intervening spaces being filled with suitable 
plants, of which lists will be found in many books and mono- 
graphs on the subject. As far as garden design is concerned 
the one principle to be observed in making a bog garden 
is, strict obedience to natural laws ; for a bog garden loses 
more than half its charm when its artifice is not concealed. 
Exceedingly interesting and skilfully planned examples, though 
on very different scales, may be seen both at Sandringham 
and Norman Tower gardens. 

Rock Gardens. — Here, again, the one great principle is to 
follow nature. Rock gardens, with their thousand exquisite 
and often almost microscopic plants, are in very high favour at 
the present time. They have one advantage over ' natural ' 
water and bog gardens. These are almost impossible where 
there is no stream, and where the ground is level, or nearly 
so ; but rock gardens can be designed and constructed in 
keeping with almost any surroundings. They will appear 
to greater advantage, no doubt, in hilly gardens, but even in 
flat ones have been quite successfully made. Where there is 
a natural outcrop of rock, very little difficulty will be met 
with. And, above all, should there happen to be an old 
quarry in the grounds, every inducement to convert it into 
a rock garden is presented, and the result is more likely 
to be a complete success than in any other position. All 
that is necessary in turning an old quarry into a rock garden 
is to increase the number of natural crevices and ledges in 
the stone, and fill them with some of the numberless charming 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 171 

and tiny plants suitable for such positions. Of course care 
will be taken to plant the smaller kinds in the more easily- 
accessible places. 

Wholly artificial rockwork requires great skill, backed 
up by acute powers of observation and some knowledge of 
geology, to make it successfully imitate, or even suggest, 
nature. And unless it does so the rock garden will never 
give entire satisfaction, no matter how well it is planted 
nor how carefully cultivated it may be. The rockwork at 
Sandringham is extraordinarily good. It is much helped by 
natural rock occurring very near the surface. The local 
stone used is beautiful in colour, soon becomes weathered, 
and its soft porosity encourages rapid growth of mosses, 
lichens and tiny carpet plants, such as Arenaria balearica, and 
many others. There are several rock gardens in the grounds, 
but the most important is an artificial addition to natural rock 
near the upper lake. Natural and artificial are blended with 
such skill that it is well-nigh impossible to tell where one 
begins and the other leaves off. 

At Windsor Castle, great use is made of the slope below 
Round Tower to add unexpected, and all the more delightful, 
features to Norman Tower garden. One part of the hill has 
been converted into a rock garden. The work is extremely well 
done ; for not only has a natural appearance been given to it, 
but it is so built that, notwithstanding the almost precipitous 
steepness, it is easily accessible in every part. This point is 
of the greatest importance in rock gardens, since many very 
choice plants are so minute as to require close inspection. 
A matter to notice as greatly contributing to the success of 
the rock gardens both at Sandringham and Norman Tower, 
is the fact that they are by no means confined to one portion 
of the gardens. On the contrary, smaller and less prominent 
bits of rockwork are introduced in many places. The effect 
of this is to do away with any unpleasing jar of incongruity 
when the rock garden proper presents itself to view. 

Where the country around is flat, probably the best way 
to make a rock garden is to excavate a hole of irregular shape. 



172 ROYAL GARDENS 

line its sides with stone, and build rough stepways down to 
narrow paths winding between mounds of rock, in which 
many pockets, crevices and fissures must be made for the 
little Alpine plants to grow in. One object being to bring 
the plants up to the eye level ; and another, because a sunk 
rock garden will not look incongruous in a flat country, 
whereas one raised high above the general level is too 
obviously artificial. Water, either as a running stream or 
placid pool, is a great aid to success in all rock gardens. 
The Japanese designers make marvellously good use of both 
water and rock work in their gardens ; and no better models 
for imitation can be found than their exquisite and most 
carefully thought out productions. Some remarkably beau- 
tiful examples of rock gardens at the International Horti- 
cultural Exhibition held at Chelsea in May 19 12, presented 
many features of surpassing interest and novelty. And many 
of these gardens owed a considerable part of their charm and 
beauty to a skilful and successful adaptation of the principles 
invented and handed down by Japanese garden designers. 

Flowering Shrub Gardens. — A most interesting feature at 
Bagshot Park is its American, or flowering shrub garden. 
One of a series of small retreats divided from each other and 
from the rest of the grounds, there, by banks, or thick hedges, 
of rhododendrons, is entirely planted with very many and 
most lovely shrubs. The charming eff^ect of this can hardly be 
surpassed. By a careful choice and judicious placing of dif- 
ferent varieties, there are flowers almost throughout the year. 
Not half enough use is made of flowering shrubs in this 
country. Few plants give more pleasure, scarcely any are so 
easily cultivated, no flowers are finer in colour, very many are 
extremely fragrant, and some among them are as beautiful 
when leaves are dying in autumn as when in full bloom. 
In winter, too, their berries are rich and bright in colour, and 
provide a most welcome contrast to sad greys and browns, 
frequently, in that dull season, only broken by the almost 
equal sadness of evergreen foliage. Where the soil allows and 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 173 

space can be spared, a portion of the garden should be devoted 
to the cultivation of flow^ering shrubs. Not planted, as is 
too often done, merely as a screen on the outskirts, to hide 
some unsightly corner, or crowded together in a shrubbery 
as though they were of little value or interest ; but given 
prominent places and plenty of room, air and light, so that 
their growth may be encouraged, and their distinctive beauties 
displayed. Few garden lovers who decided to act on this 
suggestion would ever regret it. 

Avenues. — It is generally thought that Le Notre, the 
great French landscape gardener of Louis XIV. 's period, 
first discovered the value of avenues as a means of approach 
to a palace, or for creating grand vistas from its principal 
windows. If he was not the actual inventor he was, at all 
events, the first to introduce them into this country. The 
eff^ect aimed at is precisely the same as in a vast cathedral. 
Upright trunks and curving branches take the place of pillars, 
arches and groined roof. The keynote, so to speak, is 
solemn dignity. This being so, let a man think well if the 
house he wishes to approach by means of an avenue is worthy 
of such greatness. If not, the result will be but a satire on 
his pretentiousness and lack of humour. 

Avenues should never be attempted except in the largest 
places ; and even there they seem more suitable in park than 
in garden. Two points in connection with avenue planting 
may be mentioned. They should never be less than 200 yards 
long, or the reason for their being — dignity — will vanish. 
And, when brought near the mansion, they should always 
centre to, and lead away at right angles from, either the main 
entrance, or that front which is of greatest importance. The 
Long Walk at Windsor, and the superb avenues in Bushey 
and Hampton Court home parks are fine cases in point. 
Avenues sometimes line a drive by beginning at the park 
boundary, and break off before entering the actual precincts 
of the mansion. In which case they should be designed to 
start square with the boundary line and at the first necessary 



174 ROYAL GARDENS 

curve should come to an end ; or the effect of the vista 
will be destroyed. An avenue of chestnut trees, which is 
rapidly becoming a good example of this latter type, was 
planted in the park at Claremont in 1883 by the late Duke 
of Albany. 

Garden Accessories. — As a general principle it may be said 
that nothing should be introduced into a garden without a 
strong and definite reason. And if the decision to include some 
special feature, as an arbour, fountain, statue, sundial, rose-arch 
or the like be come to, much further consideration must be 
given to the exact placing and proportion of each and every 
such piece of garden furniture. Fountains, with large jets 
of water and important figures or groups of statuary, are 
only suitable to big places, and should occupy a principal 
centre therein. Arbours should generally be placed at the 
end of a vista, or in a spot from whence a particularly fine 
view, either of the garden itself or the distant landscape, can 
be obtained. Pergolas and arches should, as a rule, act as 
gateways or means of introduction from one part of the 
garden to another, or leading from the garden to orchard 
or park. Sundials, for obvious reasons, will only be placed 
where the sunlight for many hours in every bright day can 
shine on them. Large, nearly life-size statues, which almost 
always appear to best advantage when placed on a terrace with 
balustraded parapet, are not suitable to small gardens ; nor, 
speaking generally, in places constructed on level ground, 
where terraces themselves are out of keeping. But leaden, 
bronze, or — where there is not much fear of very severe 
frost — even marble statuettes may sometimes be introduced 
into small — especially when rather formal — gardens with 
propriety and success. The four small leaden figures, repre- 
senting the seasons, in the old Pond Garden of Henry VIIL 
at Hampton Court, are a decided acquisition, and seem quite 
in place among their charming and formal surroundings. 
Again, vases and hanging baskets of trailing flowers may 
be appropriate where the house is built in an ornate style 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 175 

of architecture, and not to be thought of in simple and 
cottage-Hke places. 

Pergolas are becoming so universally popular that a few 
special remarks on them may not be out of place. The prin- 
ciples on which they are most successfully used and made are : 
first, as said before, they should invariably lead definitely from 
one place to another. A pergola set up haphazard in a garden, 
merely as a framework to hang creepers on, can never be a 
real success ; and if no other means of declaring its object 
occur, a seat or arbour near one end will help. And next, the 
really correct proportions seem to be cubical. That is, the 
length, height and breadth of each section should be equal. 
For example, if a width of i o feet and a length of 1 00 feet is 
to be covered, the pillars should be 10 feet apart each way 
and 10 feet high. There would thus be 10 equal sections or 
cubes. The pergola at Sandringham is probably the finest in 
this country. It forms an entrance-way from the West to the 
East Garden ; and in addition to the charming effect of its 
hanging masses of foliage and flowers, it gives an impression 
of imposing and magnificent dignity. This is partly owing 
to its large and suitable scale, but chiefly to its proportions 
being cubical. 

In making use of all these accessories, common sense and 
a strong feeling for suitability are required. The designer of 
a garden must never lose sight of the main objects for which 
it is to exist ; namely, that it may be as perfect a setting as 
possible for the house, and may add to the comfort and 
convenience of its owner and his friends in every way that 
can be arranged for, without destroying its beauty or making 
it out of keeping with the dwelling it is intended to adorn. 

In these Notes on Garden Design, no attempt has been 
made to give lists of plants suitable for different departments 
of the garden. It would obviously be impossible to do so in 
the amount of space which can be devoted to this brief 
inquiry into some of the principles and reasons for many 
remarkable successes in the laying out of certain royal gardens. 



I 



r 



176 ROYAL GARDENS 

Moreover, not only can full lists be found in numerous books 
dealing with every department of gardening practice separately, 
but many valuable suggestions are here included in articles by 
the head gardeners of some of the places described. 

To sum up the intention of these notes. Garden design- 
ing is an art. That is, a designer is born, not made. But 
talent may be developed, and in many cases the man with a 
highly trained small gift, may be more successful than a 
genius who works only by " rule of thumb." For this reason 
an attempt has been made to suggest lines of thought and 
discover broad, general principles as briefly as possible, rather 
than to enter fully into any one branch of the subject. 
Certain gifts and qualifications a garden-designer must have : 
— Imagination, knowledge of trees and plants, capacity for 
taking in every feature and fold of the ground, a lively feeling 
for both proportion and colour, good taste himself and ability 
to appreciate the ideas and wishes of his employer, and, above 
all, strong common sense. Given these, it is his obvious duty 
to develop them by every means in his power. 

No two sites are quite alike ; and every garden should 
be as original as it is possible to make it. When laying out 
a new garden, before the designer begins his work an urgent 
request should be addressed to the builder to leave every 
feature and all trees or shrubs, as far as may be, exactly as 
they were before a sod was turned, so that the distinctive 
characteristics may be preserved. For, on these natural 
features future success may wholly depend. The next steps 
are to learn every minute detail of the ground, to study 
most carefully the style and class of house which has been 
or is to be erected, and to discover the likes and dislikes of 
its owner. For the ideal arrangement undoubtedly is that 
house and garden should not only suit each other, and that 
both should fit in with the surrounding landscape, but that 
they should reflect, as far as possible, the tastes and preferences 
of him for whom the work is done. Having made a thorough 
study of all these points, the designer will evolve a definite 
plan. Not merely a surface plan, but one which takes into 



NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN 177 

consideration aspects of house and garden from every point of 
view. Here his imagination will come into play. He will 
see not only the existing features, but his mental vision will 
include pictures of what they may become. A comparatively 
uninteresting tree or two will, in his mind's eye, be changed 
into a stately and well-composed group ; a marshy hollow 
become a charming bog or water garden ; and rough tussocky 
grass be converted into a flower-fringed, well-kept lawn, with 
trees and shrubs to give shade and shelter as well as beauty 
to the scene. 

And, having formed and completed his mental plan, 
knowledge of growing plants and the positions they best like 
will enable him to carry it out. Good taste and a feeling 
for colour will help him to make the garden an entirely 
suitable setting for the house ; and a sense of proportion and 
fitness will come to his aid in designing all details. Paths 
for convenience in working, and ease in visiting the various 
parts of the garden, will, as it were, suggest themselves. And 
garden accessories, for convenience, for appearance and for 
interest, will be designed with such wise and careful taste, 
that they will appear thoroughly at home in the places chosen 
for them, and will increase not only the usefulness and comfort, 
but will add, also, to the beauty of the garden. 



z 



1 



POSTSCRIPT 



The making of this garden book has been, to me, a most 
delightful task ; and if, by a fortunate chance, it may give 
pleasure to others, and may be found to contain some helpful 
suggestions culled from royal gardens, it will not have been 
undertaken in vain. For the garden perfect is so exquisite 
and desirable a thing that no amount of careful thought and 
loving labour devoted to its attainment can ever be looked 
upon as time wasted or effort thrown away. 



178 



INDEX 



Addison, io, 83 

Albany, H.R.H. Duchess of, 109, 137 
Albany, the late Duke of, 49, 109, no, 174 
Albert Memorial Chapel, 17, 18 
Alexandra, H.M. Queen^ 49, 70, 79, 126, 

127, 134, 137, 138, 142 
Alexandra, H.M. Queen, favourite flowers 

of, 128, 145 
American, or flowering shrub gardens, 37, 

46, 172 
Anne, Queen, 3, 58, 75, 84 
Annual borders, 69, loi, 112, 115, 131 
Arbours, 15, 16, no, 156, 159, 174 
Arthur's Seat, Holyrood Park, 96, 103 
Avenues, 18, 40, 46, 56, no, 135, 173 



Babylon, 5, 161 

Backgrounds for flowers, 35, 64, 70, 97, 153 
Bacon, Lord Verulam, 7, 50 
Bagshot beds, 34 
Bagshot Heath, 32 

Bagshot Park, 32 et seq., 107, 108, 153, 159, 

163, 168, 172 
Banks, Sir Joseph, P.R.S., 109 
Barton Manor, 65 

Battenberg, H.R.H. Princess Henry of, 
70, 87 

Beaconsfield, Earl of, 49 
Begonias, 144, 145 
Birdcage Walk, 73 
Blenheim, 10, 83, 106 
Blue garden, 37, 47 
Bog gardens, n, 27, 134, 169 
Bower, Queen Mary's, 59 
Bowers, 15, 19, 168 
Braganza, Catherine of, 75, 78 
Bridgeman, garden designer, 10, 85, 154 
Brown, " Capability," 10,58,83,85, 106, 154, 
158 

Bruce, Sir W. (architect), 93 
Buckingham Palace, 74, 87 
Bulbous plants, 27, 135, 137 
Bushey Park, 9, 56, 58, 173 



Carisbrook Castle, 53, 65 
Carnations, 118, 145 
Caroline, Princess, 86, 105 



Caroline, Queen, 4, 85, 87, 106 

Cecil, Lord, 3, 92 

Charles L, 32, 53, 93 

Charles H., 8, 9, 32, 53, 54, 60, 73, 75, 93 

Charlotte, Princess, 77, 105, 107 

Chatsworth, 83 

Claremont, 77, 105 et seq., 126, 153, 168, 
174 

Climbing plants, 29, 42,68, n7, 127, 139 
Climbing plants, for conservatories, 42, 142 
Clive, Lord, 106, 107 
Conifers, collections of, 45, 137 
Connaught, H.R.H. the Duke of, 33, 41, 43, 
45, 64, 78 

Connaught, H.R.H. the Duchess of, 33,41, 
43, 46, 47 

Connaught, H.R. H. Prince Arthur of, 36 
Connaught, H.R.H. Princess Patricia of, 
46 

Conservatory, or plant houses, 42, 118, 142 

et seq. ♦ 
Consort, the Prince, 4, 61, 94, 95, 109, 127 
Cortes, 5 
Crabbe, poet, 88 
Cromwell, 54, 93 
Cubitt, Mr. T. (architect), 61 



Dairy garden, Queen Alexandra's, 126, 140 

Darnley, Earl, 93 

David I., King of Scotland, 91 

Defoe, 55, 76 

Delphiniums, notable varieties of, 26 
Diamond garden, Bagshot Park, 39, 44, 159 
Dutch, or pond gardens, 60, 88, 168 



Edinburgh, Duke of, 78 
Edinburgh, City and Castle, 91, 103 
Edward HL, 13 
Edward VI., 50, 73 

Edward VII., His late Majesty, 4, 49, 63, 
66, 70, 78,94, 104, 120 et seq., 127, 137, 
138, 143, 145 

Egypt, 6, 161 

Elizabeth, Queen, 3, 4, 50, 60 
Epicurus, 6 

Evelyn, John, 8, 33, 53, 54, 55, 56, 59, 73, 74, 
7S. 83, 84 



i8o 



INDEX 



Fairbairn, gardener, 109 
Fanelli, sculptor, 54, 56 
Flowers, for cutting, 144, 145 
Flowers for formal gardens, 68, 128 
Flowers for mixed borders, 69, 102, 1 1 5, 130 
Flowering shrub gardens, 37, 46, 172 
Flowering shrubs, 29, 69, 99, 135, 136 
Flowering trees, 99 

Formal gardens, hints on designing, 155 
Fountains, 15, 18, 39, 43, 54, 62, 89, 112, 

123, 125, 140, 149, 168, 169 
France, 3, 8 



Garden accessories, or furniture, 15, 159, 
174 

Garden design, notes on, 147 et seq. 
Gardener, Jon, 7 
George I., 85 
George II., 4, 85, 87 
George III., 50, 59, 87 
George IV., 33, 77, 94, 105 
George V., His Majesty, 71, 79, 94, 104, 138 
Germany, Emperor Frederick of, 44 
Germany, Empress Frederick of, 138 
Germany, H.M. the Emperor of, 138 
Gladioli, good varieties of, loi 
Gladstone, the late Mr. W. E., anecdote of, 
134 

Gloucester, Duke and Duchess of, 33, 41, 
108 

Gordon of Rothiemay, 92, 95 

Graham, Mr. and Mrs. (Bagshot), 33 

Greece, 6, 161 

Gronow, Captain, 77 

Guild of Art potteries (Compton), 43 

Gwyn, Nell, 75 



Hampton Court, 3, 4, 7, 9, 10, 50 et seq., 
82, 107, 153, 159, 168, 173, 174 

Harrison, author of Description of Eng- 
2a?id, 52 

Henry II., 6 

Henry III., 13 

Henry III. Tower, Windsor Castle, 18 
Henry VIII., 4, 50, 60, 73, 168, 174 
Herbaceous plants and borders, 26, 69, 

116, 129 
Hesiod, 6 

Hollies, collection of, 69 

Holy Hall (Bagshot), 32 

Holyrood, 3, 91 et seq. 

Holyrood garden and flowers grown in, 98 

et seq. 
Holyrood Park, 103 
Horace, 6 

Humbert, Mr. (architect), 122 
Hunt, Leigh, 86 



India, 5 

Irrigation in ancient Egypt, 5 
Italian gardens, ancient, 6, 7, 161 
Italian gardens, modern, 39, 62, 163, 168 
Italy, 6, 8, 161, 164 



Jacobean gardens, 9 
James I., of Scotland, 13, 20 
James IV., of Scotland, 91 
James V., of Scotland, 91 
James I., of England, 17, 52, 93 
James II., of England, 32, 56 
James, the " Old" pretender, 3, 84 
Japan, 5 

Japanese gardens, 5, 172 

Japanese house at Bagshot Park, 36, 48 



Kensington Gardens, 4, 9, 55 

Kensington Palace, 3, 4, 82 et seq., 168 

Kent, Duke of, 86 

Kent, Duchess of, 78 

Kent, garden designer, &c., 10, 85, 106 

Kew Gardens, 4, 87 

Knyff, 74 



Lakes, or water gardens, no, 123, 131 

et seq., 166 et seq. 
Lancaster, House of, 7 
Laud, Archbishop, 53 
Lavender walks, 16, 141 
Law, Mr. Ernest (footnotes), 50, 57 
Lawns, 164 et seq. 
Leigh Hunt, 86 

Le Notre, 9, 54, 73, 82, 158, 173 

Leopold of Saxe-Coburg, Prince, 77, 105, 

et seq. 
Liliums, 28, 103, 130 
Lily ponds, 27, 36, 47, 133, 168 
Linnaeus, 30 
Livy, 6 

London Museum, the new, 90 
London, garden designer, 9, 55, 83, 85 
Long Walk (Windsor), 18, 173 
Long Water (Hampton Court), 54 
Louis XIV., 9, 55 
Louis Philippe, 109 



Macaulay, Lord, 56, 82, 106 
Mall, the, 73, 74, 75, 79 
Marlborough, Duke of, 75, 106 
Marlborough, Duchess of, 3, 75, 106 
Marlborough House, 73 et seq. 
Mary, H.M. Queen, 79, 94, 138 
Mary, Princess, Duchess of Gloucester, 33, 
41, 108 



INDEX 



i8i 



Mary, Queen, Consort of William III., 4, 9, 

^6 ei seq. 

Mary Queen of Scots, 3, 51, 92 et seq. 
Mary, Tudor Queen, 51, 73 
Melville, ambassador, 5 1 
Mercury, statue of, 45, 159 
Mexico, 5 

Milne, master-mason, 95, 97 
Mulberry gardens, 74 



Nature, school of landscape gardeners, 

10, 85, 158 
Narcissi, choice varieties of, 28 
Necham, 6 

Newcastle, Thomas Pelham, Duke of, 106, 
108 

Norman Tower garden, Windsor Castle, 13 
etseq., 153, 158, 160, 163, 169, 170, 171 
Nottingham, Heneage Finch, Earl of, 82 
Nottingham House, 82 et seq. 
Nutt, Mr. A. Y., architect, 15 
Nymphaeas, 27, 43, 133 



Oatlands Park, 107 

Old English flowers, 8, 30, 115 

Orchid houses, 144 

Osborne, 4, 61 et seq.., 160, 163, 169 

Osborne Cottage, 70 et seq., 153 



Pallas Athene, statue of, 39, 44 

Pall Mall, 75 

Palmerston, Lord, 127 

Parkinson, author, 8 

Paths, 18, 157 seq. 

Paths, grass, 65, 160 

Pelargoniums, good varieties of, 99 

Pelham, Earl of Clare, afterwards Duke of 

Newcastle, 106 
Penstemons, 116 
Pepys, Samuel, 33, 73, 74, 78 
Pergolas, 17, 35, 48, 125, 138, 139, 153, 174, 

175 
Persia, 5 
Peru, 5 

Peter Pan, statue of, 90 
Piers Plowman, 7 
Pisarro, 5 

Pliny, the younger, 6 
Plunkenet, Dr., botanist, 57 
" Poet's Corner," Norman Tower garden, 19 
Pond gardens, 47, 50, 88, 89, 168, 174 
Pope, the poet, 10 
Portugal, King of, 138 
Potteries, Guild of Art, at Compton, Surrey 
43 

Princess Charlotte's garden, 105, 112, 168 



Probyn, General Sir Dighton M., 14 
Prussia, Prince Leopold of, 40 



Reading Abbey, 18 
Red borders, flowers for, 130 
Repton, garden designer, 10, 154 
Rizzio, 93 

Rock gardens, 11, 22, 132, 170 
Rock gardens, plants for, 22 et seq., 132, 139 
Rocque, 87, 89 
Romans, the ancient, 6 
Romans, mediaeval, 161 
Rose, royal gardener, 55 
Rose arches, 16, 37, 47, 48, 125, 140, 150, 
152 

Rose screens, 115, 140, 141 

Roses, 16, 17, 18, 28, 44, 63, 65, 68, 99, 112, 

115, 125, 129, 130, 139, 140, 141 
Roses trained on ropes, 112 



St. James's Palace, 73, 78, 80 

St. James's Park, 4, g, 55, 73 

St, John, Knights of, 50 

St. Valerie, Walter de, 50 

Salisbury Crags, 95, 96, 103 

Sandringham, 4, 120 et seq., 153, 155, 158, 

159, 164, 170, 171, 175 
Scott, Sir Walter, 95 
Shaw, Huntingdon, 57 
Shrubs, choice varieties of, 29, 69, 99, 135, 

136 

Spain, T.M. the King and Queen of, 70, 
138 

Spenser, the poet, 2, 7, 60 
Spiral garden (Bagshot Park), 37 
Spring garden, 74, 75 
Statues in gardens, 174 
Sundials, 15, 37, 95, 127, 141, 174 
Sunk fences, 85, 154 

Sweden, T.R.H. the Crown Prince and 

Princess of, 44 
Swiss Cottage, Osborne, 63, 68 et seq., 160 
Switzer, 55, 57 
Sylva, by John Evelyn, 8 



Tadema, the late Sir L. Alma, R.A., 139 

Tennyson, Alfred, Lord, 19 

Terraces, 5, 17, 38, 57, 58, 62, 80, 123, 128, 

129, 161 et seq. 
Terraces, grass or turf, 164 
Thackeray, 3, 84 
Theocritus, 90 
Theophrastus, 6 
Thomson, the poet, 108 
Tijou, Jean, 57 
Topiary work, 141 



l82 



INDEX 



Tower of London, 73 

Trees, remarkable specimens, 47, 49, 67, 

119. 137 
Tudor gardens, 7 



Vanbrugh, Sir John, 105 
Versailles, 9, 55 

Victoria, Queen, 4, 59, 61 et seq., 66, 86, 94, 

95, 104, 109, 138 
Violas, choice varieties of, loi 
Virgil, 6 



Walpole, Sir Robert, 76 

Water gardens, 11, 19, 27, 50, 54, 56, 88, 

III, 112, 120, 123, 131, 132, 133, 166 et 

seq. 

Watts, Mrs. G. F., 46 
Westminster, 66, 73, 80 



Whitehall, 57, 73, 82 

Wild gardens, 11, 39, 47, 65, 69, iio, 124, 

136, 154, 167 
William I., 13, 32, 50 
William III., 4, 9, 56 ei seq., 60, 82 et seq. 
William IV., 78 
William de Wykeham, 13 
Wilton, 10 

Winchester College, 65 

Winchester Tower (Windsor Castle), 18 

Windsor Castle, 9, it, et seq., 32, 33, 107, 

171, 173 
Windsor forest, 32 
Wise, royal gardener, 9, 55, 83, 84 
Wolsey, Cardinal, 50, 59 
Wren, Sir Christopher, 57, 76, 82, 84 



Yellow borders, flowers for, 130 
York, House of, 7 



THE END 



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